Cape Town, South Africa

by Sabrina Canfield

A City of Beauty and Diversity

Cape Town is surprisingly small.  If you use the towering plateau of Table Mountain as a guide, you won’t have any trouble finding your way around.  Table Mountain forms one wall of a bowl that encircles the downtown portion of the city.  Across from Table Mountain, creating the rest of the ridge, are the dramatic cliffs of Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head.  The center of Cape Town is located at the northern end of the Cape Peninsula, and is surrounded by the chilly beauty of the Atlantic Ocean’s arctic waters.  Any traveler so inclined would be well-suited to spend an entire visit to Cape Town at one of the several amazing white sand beaches.  But beaches are only the beginning of what this gem of a South African city has to offer.   

Not far outside Cape Town, endless vineyards boast world-renowned French-style wines, while botanical gardens and wildlife areas are hotspots of biodiversity.  For gay travelers, flourishing diversity is not limited to Cape Town’s plant and animal life.  South Africa’s 1996 post-apartheid constitution is the first and only of its kind yet to specifically offer protection from discrimination based on race, gender and sexual orientation, making Cape Town and South Africa, in general (according to some sources), the second largest gay capital in the world.

In 2010, Cape Town will host matches of the World Cup.  

A GREAT DAY IN CAPE TOWN

Whether you prefer to hike Table Mountain or reach the summit by cable car, make getting to the top a priority.  When the wind is high—and it often is, especially during the summer months (December-March)—the mountain is closed to the public.  For this reason, if the winds are calm in the morning, you should head over to the mountain.  The cable car takes about five minutes each way.  If you plan to hike, allot yourself at least four hours to go up and return.  For the rugged mountaineers out there, drop by the Mountain Club of South Africa to arrange for a guide to lead you in a climb up Table Mountain’s face.

If it’s too windy for Table Mountain, take a walk around Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, or catch a ferry to Robben Island in Table Bay for a tour of the island where Nelson Mandela and others like him were imprisoned for their political beliefs during apartheid.

Later on head into the city for lunch on Long Street, one of Cape Town’s best shopping and dining districts.  For a cheap and tasty lunch, try Portuguese-influenced Peri-Peri (hot chile peppers) chicken at Nando’s in this well-loved chain’s motherland, or stop into Café Royale for a burger made from any variety of meats and meatless-options, including ostrich.  

Long Street offers an array of stylish boutiques, supporting well-known clothing labels alongside local designers.  You’re likely to find some treasures at any of the assortment of tiny vintage clothing stores.  If you are in the mood to browse the genres of African music, or if you’re searching for African musical instruments, step into the African Music Store on Long Street.  Or, better yet, walk up a few blocks to Vibrations Recording Studio.  Pop inside and have a look at the recording room and purchase the same CDs, hot off the press.


With so many activities packed into a single day, you won’t have a chance to tour wineries (leave that for a day of its own), but you will enjoy taking a drive out of the city.  If you have a good four hours, visit Cape Point, where the Atlantic meets the Indian Ocean.  Otherwise, take a leisurely jaunt into any of Cape Town’s exquisite suburbs.

With daylight waning, you’ll want to take your afternoon snack to a beach, possibly to trendy, cosmopolitan Clifton beach where people-watching is especially impressive, and models, body builders, and Paris Hilton look-alikes all share one patch of sand.  Here you can savor a glass of wine as the sun sinks into the ocean.  There are few sights as mesmerizing as a Cape Town sunset, hence the requisite “sundowners” celebrations that takes place every evening during the summer.

Hopefully you planned ahead and made dinner reservations at one of Cape Town’s popular restaurants, perhaps Africa Café, where you are served authentic African food from various regions for a set fee.  If it isn’t that restaurant, your memorable meal could come from any of a long list of Cape Town’s world-class restaurants.  The experience of dining in Cape Town is ranked as among the best in the world.  Make sure to sample at least one dish inspired by the unique fusion of Cape cultures, cuisines that combine local ingredients with elements of cultural influences that have left indelible imprints on the region—Portuguese, Dutch, French, Indian, English, Malaysian, and German.   

Where to Stay:
Country Code for Cape Town is (27)
Cape Cadogan-
A lovely and inexpensive 12-room boutique hotel in a restored Georgian house.  It is a sanctuary, with a stylish all-white décor and quietly graceful chandeliers. Breakfast is included in the room rate and is served in a sunny courtyard.  5 Upper Union St; 27 (21) 480 8080; r This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Daddy Long Legs- Each of the 13 rooms was decorated by a different artist.  The rooms are small and noisy, but the location is perfect for being where the action is. 134 & 263 Long St; 27 (21) 422 3074; This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Ezard House- Backed by the Twelve Apostles mountain range, all of Ezard House’s 10 suites have a terrace and a view of either the majestic garden or the sea.  The décor is spare and serene.  20 Theresa Ave; 27 (21) 438 6687; This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Mount Nelson Hotel- A study in relaxation for the traveler yearning to really get away.  If seclusion is what you are after, request one of the eight Garden cottages across the lane.  They boast their own walled gardens!  76 Orange St; 27 (21) 483 1000. This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Restaurants and Nightlife:
Africa Café-
Sample a wide variety of dishes from all over Africa in this stylishly decorated restaurant.  Reservations are essential.  108 Shortmarket St; 021/422 0221www.africacafe.co.za

Café Royale- The burgers at this trendy shop are scrumptious.  Try the “baaa baaa” burger (lamb with mint) or the “big bird” (ostrich).  273 Long St; 021/422 4536.

Eclipse- With a small dance floor, a bar, and a balcony on the edge of Camp’s Bay, a perfect place to sip cocktails made with fresh fruit as the sun slips into the ocean.  Victoria Rd; 021/438 0883.

Galaxy- Bump and grind to house, R&B, hip-hop and live music until early morning.  College Rd; 021/637 9132.

Hemisphere- Located on the 31st floor in downtown Cape Town, this club has amazing views of the city and Table Mountain.  Excellent soul and funk music will keep you dancing all night.  Riebeeck St; 021/421 0581.  www.hemisphere.org.za 

Pa Na Na Souk- Sip a cocktail from a balcony overlooking the historic Heritage Square. 100 Shortmarket St; 021/423 4889.

Rhodes House- Set in the many rooms of a very stylish mansion, Rhodes House is a place to be seen in Cape Town. 60 Queen Victoria St; 021/424 8844.

Savoy Cabbage- This stylish international restaurant serves “sophisticated peasant food.” Upstairs is the Pa Na Na bar. 101 Hout St.; 021/424 2626. www.savoycabbage.co.za

Where to Shop:
Africa Nova- Large selection of handmade African goods. 
72 Waterkant St; 021/ 425 5123.  www.africanova.co.za

Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar- V&A Waterfront; 021/425 5701.  www.carolineswine.com

Joao Ferreira Gallery- Contemporary art. 70 Loop St.; 021/ 423 5403www.joaoferreiragallery.com

Lim- Simple, modern furniture.  86a Kloof St; 021/423 1200www.lim.co.za 

Vibrations Recording Studio- 129 Long Market St, Shop 8A This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . , www.vibrationstudio.com 

What to Do:
Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens-
Rhodes Drive, Newlands; 27 (21) 799 8899.  www.sanbi.org

Mountain Club of South Africa- 97 Hatfield St; 27 (21) 465 3412;
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it www.mcsa.org.za/cent

Robben Island Museum- 27 (21) 413 4200; www.robben-island.org.za

Must See:
The Robben Island Museum.

Sabrina Canfield

Sabrina Canfield

On a Travel Squire trip to Cape Town, South Africa, Sabrina Canfield had a memorable day where, first, she unexpectedly found herself at the top floor of a seemingly abandoned warehouse that later turned out to be Cape Town’s premier recording studio. Later that day the studio’s producer invited her out for a drink. She went, in jeans and a tee-shirt, and found herself at a VIP black tie party for Cape Town’s renowned Jazz Fest.
“I mean everyone was at this party,” she told Travel Squire. “This young woman watched me a long time – my jeans, at this event! I felt almost rude, and they were taking photos of me because of who I was with. – The woman at last came over and asked if I was a dancer.
“’No,’ I said. ‘I’m a writer from New Orleans.’ At the terrace table where I stood, a man in French cuffs with gold links had only just lit a cigar. He bolted from his stool the minute I opened my mouth, knocking over the table and drinks as he fled.
“I realized you never say you’re a writer. Next time it will be, ‘Yes, thank you, I am a dancer.’ A dancer sounds much lovelier anyway.”
When she’s not having travel adventures for The Squire, Canfield works as a news reporter in New Orleans and is at work on her third novel.  

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