On the Golden Mile, a promenade runs from the surfing haven, South Beach, where uShaka Marine World is also located, to the newly constructed Suncoast Casino and Entertainment World in the north. Most of the beaches along this band are protected year-round by lifeguards and shark nets. Even so, with all the fuss over keeping sharks away and swimmers looked-after, don’t be surprised to find neither the sand nor the water overrun with bathers.
A Rich History
Durban is the third largest city in South Africa, and the largest city in KwaZulu-Natal. Well known as a surfer’s paradise, it is also among the busiest ports in Africa. After British annexation of the territory from the Dutch in the 1840’s, a vast sugar cane industry was established and thousands of indentured laborers were brought over from India. As a result of the importation of Indians, Durban became the largest Asian community in South Africa.
Although English is generally spoken on the street, many South Africans speak at least one language other than English (oftentimes several), and Durbanites are no exception. The end of apartheid in 1994 named eleven official languages in South Africa. Among them are the clicking consonants characteristic of Zulu and Xhosa words.
Although he no longer holds any direct political power, KwaZulu-Natal is the home to the Zulu Monarch, King Goodwill Zwelithini KaBhekuzulu, who is paid a stipend by the South African government and holds sway over the more traditionalist Zulu people in the province.
An Ideal Setting
Durban and the KwaZulu-Natal region offer something for everyone.
Durban’s metropolitan area has benefited in recent years by urban renewal programs. As a result of community efforts—or perhaps in addition to them—a fascinating street art scene is sprouting up citywide.
To glimpse part of this art scene, head over to the BAT Centre, an arts and crafts community center located in the small craft harbor off of Durban’s Victoria Embankment. Eat lunch in the café or enjoy an iced tea on the deck, from where you’ll enjoy a panoramic view of Durban’s working harbor. Afterward, browse the center’s many art studios, galleries, and music rooms, and purchase art and mementos from the artists themselves. On any given night of the week, live music, dancing, poetry readings and other events go on at the BAT Center, always attracting a lively crowd. Be sure to pick up a schedule of evening events from one of the galleries.
Another must is a trip to the muthi, or the ‘witches’ market for a glimpse of African traditional healing. This extensive, tumbledown marketplace is the spot to see ‘muthi,’ or traditional medicine, being made and prepared for sale. Stalls are covered with ingredients that range from such things as snake skins, crocodile teeth and birds claws to mysterious, brightly colored powders. The potions are concocted right there as you browse vendors for decorative walking sticks, African incense and car-tire sandals. Stop in at the sangoma for a quick “throw the bones,” a collection of bones and shells that are thrown on a mat to communicate with the ancestors and spirit guides.
Be sure not to miss Davenport District in the suburb of Glenwood. Independent shops have sprung up around the Davenport Mall and can make for a cheerful afternoon of browsing and picking up yet more African art. Check out KwaZulu-Natal Society of the Arts. All along the same road are antique shops, home décor shops, second-hand stores, and Breathing Space Yoga Center, which offers beauty treatments as well as a wide range of organic cosmetics.
The western suburbs of Hillcrest and Kloof, formerly sleepy villages, have now become booming suburbs incorporated in the greater Durban area known as the eThekwini Municipal Area. Kloof, which means ‘gorge’ in Afrikanns, is known as a mist-belt with winding roads and mansions surrounded by trees. Kloof is predominantly English-speaking and features many high-end shopping centers as well as the Kloof Country Club.
Just outside of Durban, the breathtaking peaks of Drakensberg Mountains stretch more than 600 miles along the whole of KwaZulu-Natal’s western boundary. As a respite from city life, take a trip to Drakensberg. There you can enjoy hiking, white water rafting, game and bird watching, golfing, or fishing for trout.
The remarkable cave paintings of Drakensberg’s original inhabitants, the San Bushmen, can still be seen in caves throughout the Drakensberg region, and Kamberg National Park claims to have one of the best selections of Bushmen art in South Africa. Walking tours are operated daily, and the newly opened Kamberg Rock Art Center is a tool for helping visitors who wish to understand and interpret the more than 20,000 Sans Bushmen images to be found in the Ukhahlamba-Drakensberg Park.
For Tolkien-files, the Amatola Mountains offer an enchanting landscape of lush green forests and waterfalls that tumble to the depths of crystal clear and trout stocked swimming streams. Tolkien, who was born in South Africa, is said to have taken much inspiration for The Lord of the Rings’ fictional forest of Mirkwood from the Amatola Forest.
Where to Stay:
