As the taxi pulls up to the Soumaya, I get my first glimpse of this brand new museum on the edge of the fashionable Polanco district. Owned by Mexico's richest man (in fact, the world's richest man), Carlos Slim, the six-story structure has much of Mexico City and those in the art world buzzing. The first thing you notice is the unique shape—imagine a trapezoid in motion. The exterior is covered in thousands of hexagonal aluminum plates, which, when hit by sunlight, creates a visually stunning image. I climbed the many steps where locals congregate to snap photos of each other and and made my way to the entrance. The museum (free to all) has an outstanding collection and I was keen to explore it. On the top floor is a sky-lit space where I browsed among sculptures by Salvador Dali and Rodin (Slim has the world's largest collection outside of France). On lower floors, I felt like a kid in a candy store among the Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros murals, Miro, Van Gogh, Botero, Matisse and El Greco paintings and rare colonial-era gold coins. Certainly, this ultra-modern building is a departure for Mexico City, a city that's best known for its cathedrals and 19th century Beaux Arts buildings. But the Mexican capital with a population of 21 million, still shockingly off many tourists' radar, is definitely coming into its own. Aside from its modern and traditional mix, it also has a vibrant culinary scene and plenty of hip neighborhoods (and duly noted, I never once felt unsafe in the city).

Modern architecture notwithstanding, the heart and soul of Mexico City is the Centro Historico dominated by the Zocalo, a massive public square flanked by churches and museums. It has long been a gathering spot since the times of Aztecs and more recently for military parades, religious festivals, citizen protests and even concerts including Shakira, which drew a crowd of 210,000. On the north end is the Gothic-style Cathedral, completed in 1813 with two bell towers and 16 chapels decorated with ornate altars, marble statues and retablos (oil paintings on tin). Around the corner is an awe-inspiring archeological site—the ruins of Templo Mayor, one of the main temples of the Aztecs when the city was known as Tenochtitlan. The attached museum has displays of turquoise masks, obsidian knives and gold jewelry discovered during the excavation in the 1970s. On the nearby plaza, browse among the Aztec warriors dancing in feathered headdresses and local vendors selling everything from Mexican blankets to churros, the delicious deep-fried pastries coated in sugar and cinnamon.

A friend and frequent visitor to Mexico City, told me not to miss La Opera, a quick walk from the Zocalo. This famous Belle Epoque bar, dating from 1876 is richly decorated with ornate tin ceilings, a long polished wooden bar, velvet curtains, tiled floors and etched glass windows. Just about every well-known Mexican personality from politicians to soccer stars have been spotted here. Ask one of the waiters to point out the bullet hole in the ceiling—supposedly put there by Mexican revolutionary hero Pancho Villa who rode in on his horse. Who knows if it's true but I like the idea of it. I ordered a glass of tequila blanco (to be sipped not gulped) and a tomato juice-and-spice based chaser called a sangrita and simply took in the Old World scene. Those seeking more contemporary dining and drinking establishments certainly won't be lacking for options in this sprawling city, many of which seem straight out of New York or Miami.

One of the prime places to go out is Polanco, a posh area with leafy streets, designer boutiques and see-and-be-seen restaurants, especially along Avenida Emilio Castelar. It's also home to many high-end hotels including the W, where I stayed. The modish rooms feature red and slate gray accents, a platform bed and one of the largest bathrooms I've ever seen. From the oversized tub, I could gaze over the city framed by dramatic mountains and snow-capped volcanoes. It's a favorite of visiting musicians like the Black Eyed Peas and Ricky Martin whom you might spot having a drink in the Living Room lounge or a meal in their Solea restaurant. Nearby is Habita, the original design hotel from Grupo Habita, which owns numerous boutique hotels in Mexico. In fact, the company is opening its very first US outpost in New York this summer, called the Americano. Another quarter that attracts creative types is Condesa filled with trendy restaurants and cocktail bars including the chic rooftop garden at the Condesa df (another Grupo Habita property). I had a memorable meal at Azul Condesa, the latest restaurant from Ricardo Munoz Zurita who started Mexico's Slow Food movement (his original restaurant Azul y Oro is must for foodies). I enjoyed sopa de tortilla and duck empanadas with mole negro amid colorful artwork and Oaxacan ceramics.

Another of Mexico's neighborhoods worth a stroll is Roma, a once gritty zone transformed into an up-and-coming bohemian nabe with art galleries and coffee houses. One of its landmarks is the Brick Hotel, an elegant mansion that now houses the popular Brasserie La Moderna by celebrity chef Richard Sandoval. On my last night, after a drink at Brick's lobby bar, I met up with a friend and had one of the best meals of my life at a restaurant called Pujol. It's the showcase for Enrique Olvera, considered by many to be the city's best chef. His modern take on traditional Mexican dishes, served in a sparsely designed but elegant room was quite the experience. The eight-course tasting menu is prepared and presented in unique and even whimsical ways such as smoked corn "lollipops", stuffed zucchini blossoms, a goat cheese ball in a spicy tomato broth and berry sorbet in mezcal. I was not only impressed with Pujol but with Mexico City itself. I appreciated both its old and new aspects and was excited to discover its rich culinary scene. Though it was my first foray into the Mexican capital, I am already planning a return trip. I'm ready for another meal at Pujol.

After a morning of wandering the hilly, cobbled streets of San Miguel, I was quite tired and on the lookout for a nice spot for lunch. I ended up in the Jardin, the central square that is the heart and soul of this Spanish colonial town in central Mexico. I scanned the outdoor cafes for an empty table but none were available. While on Calle Cuna de Allende, one of the many streets fanning out from the Jardin, I paused at a restaurant sign and peeked in the doorway but saw nothing save a narrow staircase. I hesitated because the steep streets certainly take a toll on the legs but my growling stomach urged me onward. Once on the first floor, a hostess cheerily pointed to an even narrower and steeper staircase. Hmm. I continued climbing and once I reached the top, my eyes widened and my mood brightened. Before me was the most charming rooftop terrace I’d ever seen—a riot of fuchsia bougainvillea bushes, a few shaded tables and the piece de resistance, a reach out-and-touch-it view of the Parroquia, the massive 17^th century cathedral whose dome dominates the skyline. I quickly ordered a margarita and settled in for a lovely, relaxing meal.

I had long heard of San Miguel de Allende (founded in 1542 by a Franciscan missionary) and put in on my bucket list of places to get to … eventually. But every time I went to Mexico, I couldn’t resist the siren song of the ocean—the Rivera Maya on the Caribbean Sea, Puerto Vallarta and Zihuatanejo on the Pacific. But as soon as I arrived for a long weekend and saw its stunning central Mexican highlands setting and colorful hacienda-style buildings I immediately realized I’d been wrong to put it off for so long. Expats, retirees and creative types have long been drawn to San Miguel, attracted not only by its temperate climate and beauty but also its authenticity—and residents are intent to keep it that way. There was a big hubbub when Starbucks wanted to open on the Jardin a few years ago and while it eventually succeeded its façade is very much in keeping with the square’s Old World vibe. But a town can’t stagnate and changes are inevitable and as it has suffered through the downturn in the economy and the tourism fallout from the chaos along Mexico’s border towns, new additions, whether they are hotels or restaurants, are much welcomed.

 One of the most exciting newcomers is an upscale boutique hotel called Hotel Matilda, opened by Harold Stream, a Tennessee businessman and longtime San Miguel homeowner. Its stylish contemporary interiors are a departure from the traditional colonial-style b&bs. Materials such as local cantera stone and wood along with slate gray and metallic accents are used throughout and public spaces boast original artwork from cutting-edge names like Bosco Sodi and Nacho Rodriquez. Surrounding a central courtyard with a small infinity pool are the 32 minimalist rooms (many with balconies) spread among three low-lying buildings. On the terrace of Bar Matilda, under a huge jacaranda tree decorated with hanging lanterns, you can sip a glass of Casa Dragones tequila, a new artisanal tequila created by Mexico’s only female master tequilera, Bertha Nieves. Just off the courtyard is the restaurant, helmed by Chef Bernie McDonough, whose dishes incorporate vegetables grown at an organic farm just outside of town.

Another spot where chef McDonough finds fresh produce is the local food mercado or market where vendors sell everything from mangoes and papayas to corn and tomatoes as well as freshly made tortillas. At the makeshift food stalls, sample tacos and tamales for just a few pesos. Another popular market is Artisans’ Alley, three-blocks of tented stalls filled with Mexican crafts including decorative crosses, retablos (oil painting on tin or copper) and turquoise and silver jewelry. I found a pair of silver earrings I liked but the young seller, no more than 16, drove a hard bargain. She refused to haggle, which surprised me considering it is an accepted practice in Mexico and there were few customers that morning but I admired her resolve and gave in—I just had to have them. Funny how that is. There are also plenty of unique craft shops around town (where bargaining typically isn’t accepted) such as Ava Maria on Calle Relox for kitschy bags, t-shirts and design items with images of Frida Kahlo and Luche Libre. And just about every shoe store sells “combat cocktail sandals,” open-toe shoes with elastic straps created in San Miguel to protect your feet from those perilous cobblestones.

Back at the Matilda, I treated myself to a deep-tissue massage in the subterranean spa. In addition to four treatment rooms and an indoor/outdoor relaxation area complete with a fireplace, the 4,700 square foot space boasts a self-administered hammam ritual (exfoliation, body mask and aromatherapy steam) along with indigenous treatments including a “tres leches” wrap and other therapies incorporating coffee, cocoa and mint. Since my visit, the spa has opened an exclusive space at the Punte Verde hot springs (a 15 minute drive from town) called Spa en Vivo, where hotel guests can enjoy a massage and yoga before or after soaking in the mineral-rich hot springs called balnearios. After an afternoon of pampering, I was ready for a night on the town so I headed back to the Jardin, alive with mariachi bands, teens making eyes at each other, older folks sitting on a bench gossiping, festive wedding parties passing through to locations unknown. One of my favorite places to catch the sunset, people watch and sip a Modelo beer was La Azotea, a bustling rooftop bar frequented by hip locals and weekenders from Mexico City. Yes, it is reached by a series of nondescript staircases but I quickly learned that although San Miguel is intriguing on the surface it becomes downright intoxicating as you dig deeper.

The area code for Mexico is 52.

*Most US visitors fly into the Leon/Guanajuato airport and drive 90 minutes to San Miguel.

Photos by Eric Mohl

Mexico’s Surprising Port City

PORT AUTHORITY

Puerto Veracruz in southern Mexico has survived Spanish conquistadors, a little-known US invasion and plays host to what many consider to be the second largest Carnaval celebration in the world, hot on the heels of the epic festivities in Rio de Janeiro. Spend a few days here and this port city reveals even more surprises.

The term “Eco-Tourism” can trigger fear in many travelers.  Sure, we all want to protect and celebrate the beauty of Mother Earth.  But don’t worry, you don’t have to live in a tree house, drink rainwater and eat wild berries to enjoy nature on your vacation.   Puerto Vallarta integrates an unspoiled environment with cosmopolitan sophistication, creating the perfect introduction to eco-friendly tourism.   This unique destination allows you to explore the “green” through day excursions and still sport your little black dress at night.