A Tale of Two Sides
It was the land of fire, it was the land of water, it was the age of new birth, it was the age of decay, it was the season of sunshine, it was the season of rain, it was a place of ease, it was a place of unrest, we had flat fields before us, we had soaring volcanoes before us, the island struck us dumb, and the island put words in our mouths – in short, the island of Hawaii was a land of diversity, of beautiful contradictions that must be seen to be believed.
Ok, so the Big Island of Hawaii has little to do with Dickens’ vision of the French Revolution, but the island’s fantastical contradictions do seem to border on fiction. Most people go to the Hawaiian Islands for lush vegetation, unceasing sunshine, and white sandy beaches. You can find all those great things on the Big Island, but it’s about so much more. The youngest of the islands is unique, and it defies being pigeonholed, even by its own siblings.
From the moment I saw the island as I soared into Kona Airport, I realized this was a unique place. Crusty, jagged volcanic flows cover the surrounding area like black shag carpet, and huge volcanoes stretch toward the clouds. I also noticed how big it really is—bigger than all of the other Hawaiian Islands combined—so be sure to spend at least a week there because there is a lot of ground to cover. Even now, the island is still growing as Lo’ihi Volcano continues to build itself up underwater until eventually it emerges as a chunk of fresh land on the southern coast.
My home base for this trip was the central hub of the dry side of the island called Kailua-Kona (“-Kona” is added on to distinguish this Kailua from other Kailuas in the islands), a beachside town near the Kona airport. Native Hawaiians really only use two directional words, “mauka” (meaning “inland”) and “makai” (meaning “toward the sea”), but for us mainlanders, Kailua is on the western coast of the island. It’s a classic beach town with great seafood, beautiful beaches, plenty of sunshine, and a rich assortment of shopping. Kailua’s beaches have some of the best snorkeling sites in the state with opportunities to see Green Sea Turtles, Spinner Dolphins, Manta Rays and the occasional White Tip Reef Shark.
Kailua also has a quaint downtown filled with restaurants and shops where you can rent snorkeling gear, grab a meal, drink the delicious local beer, or buy some of their famous Donkey Balls (chocolate balls with macadamia nuts in the middle). The downtown also doubles as the historic centerpiece of the area, featuring the Moku’aikaua Church (the oldest Christian church in all of Hawaii), the Hulihe’e Palace (the old Hawaiian royal family’s vacation home, which is now a museum) and the Kona Inn (an old inn converted into a fine dining establishment). There’s even a restored ancient Hawaiian temple called the Ahu-ena Heiau on the point jutting out into Kailua Bay.
The greatest part about the dry side of the island is how different it is from the rest of the island and the Hawaiian Islands in general. Along the roads, pale, otherworldly grass sways in the wind and small volcanic cones rise up from the flat plains. The roads cut through lava flows that look like strange, black moonscapes, jagged and tortured looking, but with grass and shrubs springing up here and there. And always in sight against the horizon are the shapely and majestic volcanoes Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai.
Throw in the west side’s numerous historical sites like the Captain Cook monument, the “Place of Refuge” National Historical Park, and the Kona Historical Society, and you have the makings of a fantastic vacation. But to focus solely on Kailua and its surroundings is to miss the point because Kailua is an excellent launching point from which to tour the rest of the island’s incredible diversity.
To the north is the small town of Waimea, ensconced in the rolling foothills at the base of the emerald green Kohala Mountains. The mountains, presided over by the oldest of the volcanoes, are not as massively grand as nearby Mauna Kea but they are just as beautiful but in a different way. Their summits stand tall over Waimea, the transitional area between the west’s dry plains and lava flows and the east’s lush rainforest. To the south the mountains give way to the flat prairie that was cultivated into pastures in the early 1800’s for the expansion of Hawaii’s cattle industry. Visitors should not miss the Anna Ranch Heritage Center, a picturesque collection of ranches preserved on the outskirts of town.
Leaving Waimea, you enter an entirely different world. If you’ve been to Kauai, the northeastern coast of the Big Island, especially the Hamakua Coast, will probably seem familiar. In stark contrast to the dry side of the island, the Hamakua Coast all the way down to Hilo is as wet as it gets. The stunning cliffs and canyons lining the coast are covered with verdant vegetation and hidden waterfalls. Two gems of the drive along the coast are the Akaka Falls and Laupahoehoe Point (the site of a beautiful memorial for the people lost there in the 1946 hurricane). But perhaps most spectacular of all is the Waipi’o Valley—just at the southern edge of the Kohala Mountains—a beautiful rift of agricultural land opening out onto the ocean.
If Kailua is the hub of the dry side of the island, Hilo is the focal point of the rainy side. Hilo is much larger than Kailua, so there are lots of fun things to do, including a tropical rainforest zoo, the Wailoa River State Park, a farmer’s market, and some great museums. But the reason I think Kailua is the more ideal home base for a trip to the Big Island is because it rains almost every day in Hilo. That said, Hilo is a beautiful city with a little more bustle than Kailua, so it’s definitely worth seeing.
Of course, the final aspect of the Big Island, and perhaps the most famous one, is Volcanoes National Park in the southeast. The park incorporates the summit of Mauna Loa, a vast swath of wilderness filled with fabulous hiking trails and Kilauea Caldera, the main attraction. One of the most active volcanoes in the world, Kilauea had been relatively quiet since last February but erupted while I was there. This was not a full-scale eruption with gushing lava destroying nearby cities, although the Big Island has had a few of those. We didn’t even get to see any fresh lava flows. But we were able to see the glow of the lava in the Halema’uma’u Crater at night, one of the most riveting experiences of my life. Even standing amid the hardened lava of ages past, I could still feel how alive the island is.
Sadly, humans will never see Lo’ihi rise from the ocean and join the other five volcanoes of which the Big Island is made. The geological clock won’t permit it. But that doesn’t mean that we can’t appreciate the Big Island’s radical geologic changes and awe-inspiring diversity. Even if we can only see the world changing from a relatively limited perspective, there are places and times that force our eyes to open wider and our minds to expand. We can look in awe at a shield volcano rising over 13,000 feet above sea level and begin to understand the tremendous power to create and destroy that the planet possesses. And we can walk barefoot on a black sand beach and see that even lava will one day break down and form something new while all the while a world continues to turn.
The area code for the Big Island is 808.
Where to Stay:
Kona Coast Resort – Beautiful resort with Mediterranean-style villas on the Kona coast, just south of downtown Kailua-Kona. Each rental comes with a fully equipped kitchen, washer and dryer, cable TV, and complementary Wi-Fi. The resort also has outdoor grills, swimming pools, a basketball hoop, shuffleboard courts, tennis courts, a sand volleyball court, and a fitness center. Perfectly positioned to tour the Kona side of the island. (808) 324-1721 www.shellhospitality.com/hotels/kona_coast_resort/
Sheraton Keauhou Bay Restort & Spa- This resort has an ancient lava flow cascading into the waters along the Kona coast of Hawaii’s Big Island. Be sure to get a rejuvenating spa treatment and attend their fun luau! 78-128 Ehukai Street. Kailua-Kona. (808)930-4900. www.sheratonkeauhou.com
Hilton Waikoloa Village- This property is nestled within 62 oceanfront acres offering breathtaking tropical gardens, tranquil waterways and abundant wildlife. This resort is a paradise all its own, big enough to need a tram or boat to reach its farthest corners. 69-425 Waikoloa Beach Dr Waikoloa. (800) 446-8667. www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com
Where to Eat:
Kona Brew Co. – Microbrewery and restaurant with excellent beers brewed on the premises, ranging from light ales to stouts. A few are available in select markets outside Hawaii, but most of these beers cannot be had outside of the brewpub, so drink up. Kona Brew Co. is about more than beer, though, their pizzas are also out of this world. They infuse their sauces with some of their flavorful beers and have created appetizers to go with a bounty of sandwiches and salads. But if you don’t get one of their signature pizzas, you are making a huge mistake. www.konabrewingco.com
Village Burger – Small burger joint sequestered in the small ranching town of Waimea. The owner and head chef, Edwin Goto, uses all local and sustainable products for his burgers, including the grass-fed and hormone-free beef from nearby ranches. Big, juicy burgers with fantastic toppings like fresh avocado slices, local goat cheese, broken egg, or Applewood smoked bacon. The fries are amazing too, served with sweet chile, Wasabi mayo and sun dried tomato mayo for dipping, or you can get them crusted in delicious “parmesean goop.” Make sure you try one of the thick and rich Epic shakes made with the favorite local ice cream with a surprise at the bottom. www.villageburgerwaimea.com
Tex Drive-In – Best place I found for the classic Hawaiian treat, malasadas. Originally created by Portuguese immigrants, these hot, fluffy pastries are like doughnuts but better. Every place does them a little differently, but Tex’s are bigger and more flavorful than any others. Get one filled with apple, apricot, Bavarian creme, cherry, chocolate crème, guava, lemon, mango, pineapple, raspberry or strawberry. But get there early because they sell out by midday. (808) 775-0598 www.facebook.com/pages/Tex-Drive-In-Big-Island-Hawaii/106337749394338?sk=info
U-Top-It – tucked away in downtown Kailua-Kona, this restaurant specializes in the Hawaiian Taro PanCrepe. A variation on the traditional crepe, this is a thin pancake with crispy edges made with taro, a Hawaiian staple. They’ve got 57 toppings including fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses, and sauces that allow you to go either savory or sweet. They also serve breakfast all day in addition to the signature crepes. (808) 329-0092 www.utopitkona.com
What to See:
Volcanoes National Park – a massive park with countless hiking trails for visitors to explore. Centered on the Kilauea Caldera, there are plenty of great lookout points that are accessible by car or foot. Definitely check out the Thurston Lava Tube, which is a short hike through an underground lava tube. The centerpiece is the still active Halema’uma’u Crater, so the glow of lava can be seen at night. When the gas emissions aren’t dangerous, visitors can even hike close to the crater.
Waipi’o Valley – stunning view of the valley, just a short drive north of Honokaa, between Waimea and Hilo on the Hamakua Coast. The fertile, green agricultural land is dotted with fields but the stark cliff sides dropping straight into the ocean is the real draw. For the adventurous, there are several hiking trails across the valley into the Kohala Natural Preserve, but they are strenuous.
Kona Historical Society – a turn off just south of Kailua-Kona that features both the Greenwell Farms Coffee Store and Museum and a Portuguese wood-fired stone oven. Greenwell Farms Coffee is a rich local blend with lots of flavors but the real treat is the “pao doce,” a Portuguese sweet bread that volunteers bake in the stone forno once a week.
Pu’uhonua o Honaunau “Place of Refuge” National Park – a seaside park preserving aspects of traditional Hawaiian life. Features an impressive stone wall that separates the old royal grounds from the pu’uhonua, a “place of refuge,” where dishonored citizens or criminals could find absolution and protection. The grounds also include a restored heiau, an ancient Hawaiian temple, guarded by ki’i, the fierce-faced totem poles representing local gods.
Waimea – a quaint ranching town at the base of the Kohala Mountains in the north of the island. Great restaurants and beautiful views of the mountains and the volcano, Mauna Kea. The Anna Ranch Heritage Center on the outskirts of town is a collection of old, white ranch buildings that hosts a weekly farmer’s market.
It’s Always Hot
A friend called the other day and said, not without a soupcon of sarcasm, “So is Miami cold yet, you know, in the low ‘70s?” In fact, tropical paradise that we are, we do occasionally get a cold snap in the winter months. (You know the temps have dropped when the fashionistas are sporting thigh high leather boots and tourists leave their flip flops in their bag). Another friend called to offer his sympathy: now that Art Basel Miami Beach was over, wasn’t I bored?
No way! There’s plenty to do in Miami beyond the beach, bikinis, and Basel … even when the temperature heads south. Besides the myriad of museums and collections, there are the historic venues, such as the stunning Biltmore Hotel and Vizcaya Museum & Gardens, great shopping, ranging from outlet to vintage, world class dining and entertainment and endless sports events and activities. I’m pleased to report that January and February both offer an almost endless array of events with something for just about everyone’s taste. Here’s my comprehensive round-up.
Art Deco Weekend from January 13 through 15
Last year more than 200,000 Deco devotees from all over the world converged on legendary Ocean Drive in South Beach for this event. This year promises to be even more of a blowout as Art Deco Weekend celebrates its 35th anniversary. In addition to the annual antique car parade, there’ll be booths offering antiques and collectibles, lectures and live entertainment. There’s also a fashion show of custom gowns inspired by iconic Deco hotels, a new “Miami Noir” film series, an exhibition of Bunny Yeager’s famous Betty Page photographs, and an Art Deco & MIMO Furniture Expo with both originals and reproductions.
The International Chocolate Festival at the Fairchild Botanical Garden from January 20 through 22
A feast for the senses, this event includes all things chocolate from candy and foods to chocolate making demonstrations amid the lovely, world-renowned gardens.
The Miami Jewish Film Festival from January 21 through 29
Showing national and international films on a variety of themes (perhaps one on chocolate guilt?)
ING Miami Marathon & Half Marathon on January 29
More than 17,000 people run the 26.2 or 13.1 miles, following an incredibly beautiful course that’s largely along the water beginning in downtown Miami and continuing through Miami Beach. For the tardier among us the stunning causeway views are practically a gift.
The Miami Beach Antiques Show from February 2 through 6
Billed as the world’s largest indoor antique show, it features more than 1,000 dealers within the Miami Beach Convention Center.
Art Wynwood from February 16 through 20
Depending on whether your idea of collectibles is powerboats or paintings, Presidents’ Weekend will offer much more than a long weekend. Brought to you by the producers of Art Miami, one of Art Basel Miami Beach’s preeminent satellite fairs, Art Wynwood will include seventy international galleries, indoor and outdoor projects, video, solo exhibitions, and conceptual art. Its location is a trifecta of emerging art galleries and street art (Wynwood), shopping (Midtown Miami) and interior design (Miami Design District) with trendy restaurants in all three neighborhoods.
The 71st Miami International Boat Show from February 16 through 20
The self-proclaimed greatest boat show in the world and Florida’s largest annual event, it features powerboats, sailboats, and engines … oh my! (Plus chic accessories for your nautical toys, too). Held in the Miami Beach Convention Center, the Sea Isles Marina & Yachting Center and Miamarina at Bayside, the latter specializing in all things sailing, the event boasts 3,000+ boats and 2,000 exhibitors. A new attraction is the Dive & Travel Harbor, a one stop shopping resource for adventure.
The 24th Miami International Yacht & Brokerage Show (on Collins Avenue from 41st to 51st Sts.), concurrent
This outdoor, in-water only event promises to “…transform Collins Avenue into a multi-million dollar presentation of yachts, including the most extraordinary and uniquely designed yachts and super yachts from the world’s foremost custom boat builders …” The show is free and you’ll feel like a million dollars yacht-hopping along Indian Creek.
The 49th annual Coconut Grove Arts Festival from February 18 through 20
The number one outdoor arts festival in the nation and a triple threat with more than 300 visual, culinary and performing artists from all over the world.
The South Beach Wine & Food Festival from February 23 through 26
In its eleventh year, this event is a Mecca for serious and wannabee foodies with its late-night parties, one-of a kind dinners, wine and lifestyle seminars, brunches, and signature tastings. Special events range from Wine Spectator’s “Best of the Best” at the Fontainebleau Hotel to the “Farm to Table Brunch” sponsored by Whole Foods Market and hosted by local star chef Michael Schwartz at the Miami Beach Botanical Garden. Other crowd pleasers: “The Best Thing I Ever Ate: Late Night Bites and Sweets” presented by Food Network & Cooking Channel and sponsored by Godiva Chocolatier as well as “Paula Deen’s Sunday Brunch” at the Loews Miami Beach Hotel. Work off those calories (and add some new ones) at the uniquely Miami “Salsa at Sea,” hosted by Douglas Rodriguez and Aaron Sanchez onboard The Biscayne Lady.
South Beach Comedy Festival from Feb. 29 through March 3rd
People say, “Always leave them laughing,” so my final recommendation showcases top and emerging comedic talents.
I don’t know about you, but I’ve broken a sweat just contemplating all these activities and events. I guess it is true … Miami is always hot.
The area code for Miami is 305.
*Recommendations from the TravelSquire editorial staff:
Where to Stay
W South Beach – with super sized rooms and a balcony on every one, you just may not want to leave. 2201 Collins Avenue. (305) 938-3111. wsouthbeach.com
The National – it doesn’t hurt to hole up at a glorious South Beach landmark especially when it comes to late night drinks in your 3 level penthouse suite. Take a dip in the 205 foot infinity pool after. 1677 Collins Avenue. (305) 532-2311. nationalhotel.com
The Raleigh – a recent facelift to the glamorous lobby and garden cafe have made the famous black outlined pool even more spectacular. Esther Williams swam here so you know it’s gotta be good. 1775 Collins Avenue. (305) 534-6300. raleighhotel.com
The Tides – the grande dame of Deco Drive is serene, sexy and exclusive. 1220 Ocean Drive. (305) 604-5070. www.tidessouthbeach.com
The Clinton – off the strip but not off the map, this boutique hotel will make you feel like a local and not break the bank. 825 Washington Avenue. (888) 525-4686. clintonsouthbeach.com
Where to Eat
1500 Degrees – it’s worth it just to see the Eden Roc Hotel’s lobby but you’ll be rewarded with stellar cuisine if you continue to the restaurant where farm to table just got more delicious. 4525 Collins Avenue. (305) 674-5594. 1500degreesmiami.com
Quattro - like good Italian? You’ll get it here. Practically a culinary temple on Lincoln Road, South Beach’s dazzling pedestrian thoroughfare. 1014 Lincoln Road. (305) 531-4833. www.quattromiami.co
Red – cool, dark and secretive and the steak’s to die for - enuf’ said. 119 Washington Avenue. (305) 534-3688. www.redthesteakhouse.com
Chow Down – missing your favorite Chinese restaurant? This place does it better and is South Beach’s best kept secret especially since it serves until 5 am. 920 Alton Road. (305) 674-1674. www.chowdowngrill.com
Café at Books & Books – their local chef, Bernie Matz, dishes up a really great brunch. 933 Lincoln Road, 305-695-8898, www.booksandbooks.com
Joey’s – there’s nothing like a visit to art-infused Wynwood and you can eat some real Italian food after all that gallery hopping. 2506 Northwest 2nd Avenue. (305) 438-0488. www.joeyswynwood.com
What to See & Do
Vizcaya Museum & Gardens- 3251 South Miami Avenue. (305) 250-9133. www.vizcayamuseum.org
Art Deco Weekend- January 13-15. www.mdpl.org
Art Deco & MIMO Furniture Expo- www.mdpl.org/adwfurnitureexpo
Bunny Yeager’s Betty Page Photographs- www.miamiartzine.com
International Chocolate Festival- www.fairchildgarden.org
Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden- 10901 Old Cutler Road Coral Gables, FL. (305) 667-1651. www.fairchildgarden.org
Miami Jewish Film Festival- January 21-29. www.miamijewishfilmfestival.com
ING Miami Marathon- January 29. www.ingmiamimarathon.com
Miami Beach Antiques Show- February 2-6. www.originalmiamibeachantiqueshow.com
Art Wynwood- February 16-20. www.wynwoodmiami.com
Miami International Boat Show- February 16-20. www.miamiboatshow.com
Dive and Travel Harbor- http://www.miamiboatshow.com/attendees/diveandtravelharbor.aspx
Miami International Yacht & Brokerage Show- www.showmanagement.com
Coconut Grove Arts Festival- February 18-20. www.cgaf.com
South Beach Wine & Food Festival- February23-26. www.sobefest.com
South Beach Comedy Festival- February 29- March 3. www.southbeachcomedyfestival.com
In Colorado, people have been skiing for over 150 years, beginning with the miners who figured out it was the best way to get around in a place where snow covered the ground most of the year. In fact, until the railroads arrived, even the mail was delivered on skis. It’s no surprise that Colorado’s Rocky Mountains are a skier’s (and boarder’s) dream. Why? The mountains get a lot of snow and the high altitude combined with dry air create great conditions. Add almost 300 sunny days a year and you have ski Nirvana.
The Rockies are perfect for both day-skiing and lengthier getaways. Lodging choices run the gamut from casual to all out luxury with state of the art facilities and top notch service. If you want space and enjoy cooking in, consider renting a condo, home or condotel (a hybrid of condo benefits and hotel service). Whether you come for one day or a few, you’ll find great skiing.
Here are five world class Colorado ski resorts to consider for a winter getaway, each with its own distinct character.
Aspen
Why go: If you’re looking for great skiing and want to hang with A-list folks, Aspen is for you. It’s the only ski town in the U.S. where you’ll find designer boutiques like Gucci and Louis Vuitton ensconced in pristinely restored Victorian buildings. Add posh hotels and sophisticated restaurants and you have a luxurious ski vacation. Plus, between Aspen and neighboring Snowmass there are four mountains to ski.
Must do: There’s lots of cultural resources on offer with a winter schedule featuring classical ballet, theater and concerts spanning music genres from classical to contemporary.
You can also hire a guide and tour some of the shrines on Aspen’s four mountains. These pay homage to iconic figures such as Marilyn Monroe, Snoopy, the Beatles, Liberace, Hunter S. Thompson and scores more. Shrines are as small as a plaque, photo or license plate and as large as a cabin with lots in between. Some are serious and some, high kitsch.
If you have a little cash to burn, stroll the restored downtown and shop till you drop.
Where to Stay: The Little Nell, is the only ski-in, ski-out hotel and offers five star and five diamond luxury. Treat yourself to a room with a panoramic mountain view. Après-ski, visit their spa. Want to get away from it all? The Bauhaus-inspired Aspen Meadows Resort, home to the prestigious think tank, The Aspen Institute, is set on 40 peaceful acres close to town.
If a house or condo appeals to you, Frias Properties of Aspen specializes in luxury rentals.
Where to dine: Montagna at The Little Nell, for one of Aspen’s premier dining experiences, specializing in fresh, local Colorado foods prepared with global flair.
CP Burger, Aspen’s answer to fast food, is a hot spot with juicy homemade Colorado-beef burgers, hot dogs and interesting salads. If you’re over 21, try the spiked shakes. Order at the counter and they’ll deliver your food to the table.
Poppycock’s Café, with a retro diner feel, serves breakfast all day.
Beaver Creek
Why Go: This resort community consists of hotels (owned and managed by an assortment of companies), condos and homes in a self-contained world with shops, restaurants and more. Beaver Creek’s motto is “Not Exactly Roughing It.” From the moment you pass the gatehouse into this luxurious enclave, you know that pampering awaits. Perfect for a romantic getaway, a wedding or just about anything else you can think of, the resort also prides itself on being family-friendly.
Must Do: Lace up your skates and take a few turns around the ice rink in the middle of town or try snow tubing on Haymaker Tubing Hill. Rent snowshoes and get out on the trails.
Don’t miss the resort’s popular “Cookie Time” daily at 3pm. Chefs walk around with trays of free, fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies creating a mid-afternoon feeding frenzy.
Where to Stay: The Osprey, if you want the ultimate in ski-in, ski-out convenience and chic, contemporary surroundings. This boutique property has the distinction of being the closest hotel to a ski lift in North America with a convenient location, directly across from the Resort Village and easy access to lifts, shops and restaurants. Their comfortable rooms feature granite baths, some with soaking tubs and double sinks.
If you prefer a rental property, East-West Resorts specializes in “premier luxury lodging.” Beaver Creek Resorts offers one-stop booking for all types of lodging.
Where to Dine: Toscanini’s offers contemporary northern Italian cuisine in a stylish setting with a great view of the ice rink in winter. Parents can have a relaxing meal while the kids skate.
Beano’s Cabin is truly a destination restaurant. The only way to get to the mountainside log cabin is in a sleigh pulled by a snowcat. Snuggle under blankets and enjoy the 20-minute ride through the glistening woods. Look up; the sky is magical. The restaurant’s casual ambience and sophisticated price-fixed, five course dinner has made it a favorite.
Breckenridge
Why Go: Like Aspen, another old mining town, Breckenridge has a sense of history and oozes charm. Breck, as it’s affectionately called, is a short two hours from Denver so obviously great for day skiers.
Must Do: dog sledding. Good Times Adventures will even let you drive the sled. Mush!
Stroll the charming town, explore the exquisite shops and galleries, then warm up with a cup of hot chocolate.
Where to Stay: Breckenridge, like many of the area’s resorts, has few hotels. Most accommodations here are condos, condotels or home rentals.
If you want complete ski-in, ski-out convenience in a luxury setting, One Ski Hill Place at bottom of Peak 8 is a perfect choice. They offer a range of condominium accommodations from studios to four-bedrooms with luxury hotel amenities.
Summit Mountain Rentals is an excellent source for rental accommodations with a knowledgeable and friendly staff that assists clients throughout their stay to ensure a perfect Breck experience.
Where to Dine: For breakfast, try the popular Blue Moose or the Columbine Café. Empire Burger, with house ground Harris Ranch beef, is a local favorite. If you’re eating on the go, grab a bit of France at Crepes a la Carte.
Giampietro Pasta and Pizza, a small, bustling place, is great for lunch or dinner. Their bruschetta is the deal of the day, enough for a whole meal. Check the specials board to see what’s inspiring coming from the kitchen that day.
The sleek, contemporary dining room at Relish offers diners superb mountain views. Chef/owner Matt Fackler’s “Colorado inspired cuisine” follows an ABC (Always Buy Colorado) philosophy using fresh, organic ingredients whenever possible. If you’re looking for something more casual, Twist, their new restaurant, offers new takes on traditional comfort foods.
Telluride
Why Go: If Breckenridge and Beaver Creek had a baby, it would be Telluride. This old mining town is surrounded by mountains on three sides. The Victorian town, painted ladies all restored, has a sense of history. The contemporary Mountain Village, at the top of the Gondola, offers all the amenities of a contemporary world class ski resort.
Must Do: ride the gondola, even if you’re not a skier, as the views are superb. Stroll around the restored town with a camera, or better yet, take a guided historic walking tour. Take the gondola up for a drink and an appetizer at Allred’s. Located part way up the mountain, at St. Sophia gondola station, the views are unforgettable.
Where to Stay:
Hotel Telluride, at the western end of town, offers Colorado mountain lodge ambience and comfortable, cozy rooms. Service at the boutique property is friendly and attentive and if you aren’t happy with your pillow, consult their Pillow Menu for the one that’s right for you.
Hotel Madeline Telluride, located at the base of the slope in Mountain Village, offers luxury coupled with ski-in, ski-out convenience. The well-appointed rooms feature Pratesi Linens and bathrooms with walk-in showers and soaking tubs. To soothe away those après ski aches or just because, there’s a full service spa on site.
The Telluride Tourism Board is a great resource for one stop accommodation information. They can book hotel stays and condo and home rentals.
Where to Dine: 221 South Oak, a modern bistro, serves contemporary American cuisine infused with French and Creole influences, in a restored historic home steps from the gondola.
Siam offers authentic Thai cuisine from centuries old family recipes with some contemporary additions. This contemporary eatery with an ethnic flair uses fresh, local and organic ingredients when possible.
Vail
Why Go: Vail is the realization of two men with a vision. Pete Seibert and Colorado native Earl Eaton saw the potential in this undeveloped valley. Vail, opened with four houses in 1962 and is now a world-class ski resort. Located three hours from Denver, it’s both a day and getaway destination.
Must Do: Visit bōl, the chic bowling alley in the new Shops at Solaris at the exclusive new Solaris Residences. Concentrate on your spares and strikes while nibbling from an interesting menu of small plates and drinking good wine. Or try dinner and a movie at the Cine Bistro, also in the Solaris Building.
Enjoy the great outdoors on a dogsled or sleigh ride or go up, up and away in a beautiful balloon.
Where to stay: the AAA Four Diamond, Arrabelle, at Vail Square, offers luxury in the heart of town. Designed to invoke a grand hotel in an alpine village, expect fantastic service and attention to detail. For pampering after a day on the slopes, relax in your spacious soaking tub (the bathrooms have heated floors) or have a treatment at the on-site spa.
Vail Cascade Resort & Spa, located just steps from a lift with ski-in, ski-out convenience, offers impeccable service and warm surroundings. The library, opposite the front-desk, was furnished by one of their frequent guests. He wanted to feel at home and you will, too. Request a room overlooking Gore Creek and the mountain.
Triumph Mountain Properties has an inventory of luxury condos and home rentals. The icing on the cake: excellent customer service from caring staff.
Where to Dine: Vail has two hot newcomers. Nobu Matsuhisa, perhaps the most famous sushi chef in the world, opened Matsuhisa, an offspring of his Nobu, in the new Solaris Building, an enclave of upscale shops and restaurants. The contemporary mountain décor features lots of stone and wood, soaring ceilings and glass walls. Along with sushi the menu’s focus is small plates that fuse Japanese foods and flavors with other influences as well as Omakase, a tasting menu, translated as "creations from the chef’s heart." These are “The most complete way to experience the essence of Nobu Matsuhisa’s dishes." Reservations are accepted one month in advance and they book up early in season, so plan ahead.
Another popular newbie is Elway’s at The Lodge at Vail. The legendary Denver Bronco’s quarterback has lent his name to this small steakhouse chain also with two spots in Denver. They specialize in aged prime beef and the a la carte menu is committed to a fresh, seasonal approach.
At Moe’s Original BBQ, started by some “Bama boys” in Vail, they’re serving up Alabama-style pork, ribs and chicken and more. Ever had north Alabama style white BBQ sauce? It’s great with chicken or turkey. Order the side of the day, rotating southern favorites like collards, mac and cheese and sweet potato casserole.
Getting there: The best way to get to Colorado’s ski areas is through Denver which most major airlines service. From there, you can take a connecting flight, rent a car, grab a shuttle or hire a car. Colorado Mountain Express supplies shuttles to all the ski areas mentioned, except Telluride, and in season (December 15th until around April 1st), there are direct flights into some mountain airports. The towns all have good public transportation and a car isn’t necessary if you’re staying in town. There’s shuttle service from many hotels.
Aspen: United, American and Frontier (from Denver only) serve the Aspen/Pitkin County Airport (ASE).
Beaver Creek/Vail: Eagle Airport (EGE) is served by American, Continental, Delta and United, through direct flights or connections.
Breckenridge: Fly to Denver (DIA) and then either rent or hire a car or take a shuttle.
Telluride: a number of airlines fly to Montrose, then it’s a 90 minute drive to Telluride by car or Telluride Express van. You can also fly into the small Telluride Regional Airport (TEX). At 9,070 feet above sea level, it’s the highest commercial airport in the U.S.
Whether you choose one of these five resorts or one of the other 21 Colorado ski resorts, a fabulous Rocky Mountain getaway is guaranteed.
Where to Stay:
Aspen
The Little Nell - 675 East Durant Avenue, (970) 920-4600 , http://www.thelittlenell.com
Aspen Meadows Resort - 845 Meadows Road, (800) 452-4240, http://www.dolce-aspen-hotel.com
Frias Properties of Aspen - 730 E Durant Avenue, (970) 920-2000, http://www.friasproperties.com
Beaver Creek
The Osprey - a Rock resort, 10 Elk Track Lane, (970) 754-7400, http://ospreyatbeavercreek.rockresorts.com
East-West Resorts - 15 Highlands Lane, Avon, Co. 81620, (970) 949-5071, http://www.eastwestbeavercreek.com
Beaver Creek Resorts - 450 E Lionshead Circle, Vail, Co., (970) 754-4636, http://www.beavercreek.com/planyourtrip/lodging-in-and-around-beaver-creek.aspx
Breckenridge
One Ski Hill Place - 1521 Ski Hill Road, (970) 547-8800, http://www.oneskihillplace.com
Summit Mountain Rentals - 111 Ski Hill Road, (970) 453-7370, http://summitrentals.com
Telluride
The Hotel Telluride - 199 North Cornet Street, 970-369-1188, http://www.thehoteltelluride.com
Hotel Madeline Telluride - 568 Mountain Village Boulevard, (970) 369-0880
http://www.hotelmadelinetelluride.com
*The Telluride Tourism Board/ Telluride Central Reservations
( 888)605-2578, http://www.visittelluride.com/places-to-stay
Vail
Arrabelle, at Vail Square - 675 Lionshead Place, (970) 754-7777, http://arrabelle.rockresorts.com
Vail Cascade Resort & Spa - 1300 Westhaven Drive, (970) 476-7111, http://www.vailcascade.com
Triumph Mountain Properties - 40833 Hwy 6, Avon, Co., 81620, (970) 479-9990 http://www.triumphmountainproperties.com
Where to Eat:
Aspen
Montagna - 675 East Durant Avenue, (970) 920-6330,
http://www.thelittlenell.com/restaurants/montagna-restaurant.aspx
CP Burgers - 433 East Durant Avenue, (970) 925-3056
Poppycock's - 665 East Cooper Avenue Aspen, Co., 81611, (970) 925-1245
Beaver Creek
Toscanini - 60 Avondale Lane, (970) 754-5590
Beano's Cabin - Beaver Creek Mountain, (970)754-3463 http://www.beanoscabinbeavercreek.com/beanos
Breckenridge
Blue Moose - 540 South Main Street, (970) 453-4859
Columbine Café - 109 S. Main St., (970) 547-4474
Empire Burger - 520 S Main Street, (970) 453-2329, http://empireburger.com
Crepes a la Cart - 307 South Main Street, (970) 453-4022, http://www.crepesalacarts.com
Giampietro Pasta and Pizza - 100 N. Main Street, (970) 453-3838, http://www.giampietropizza.com
Relish - 137 South Main Street, (970) 453-0989, http://www.relishbreckenridge.com
Twist - 200 South Ridge Street, (970) 547-7100, http://twistbreck.com
Telluride
221 South Oak - 221 South Oak Street, (970) 728-9507, http://221southoak.com
Siam - 200 South Davis, (970) 728-6886, http://www.siamtelluride.com
Vail
Matsuhisa - 141 East Meadow Drive, (970) 476 6628, http://www.matsuhisavail.com
Elway's at The Lodge at Vail - 174 East Gore Creek Drive, (970) 754-7818
Moe's Original BBQ - 616 West Lionshead Circle, (970) 479-7888, http://www.moesoriginalbbq.com
What to do:
Dog sledding and more (Beaver Creek and Vail) - Mountain Mushers Dog Sled Tours
970-653-7877, http://mountainmusher.com
Sleigh rides, snowmobiling, dog sledding, horseback riding - 4 Eagle Ranch (west of Vail and Beaver), 4098 Highway 131, Wolcott, Co., 81655, (970) 926-3372
Horseback riding and sleigh rides - Bearcat Stables, 2701 Squaw Creek Rd., Edwards, Co., 81632, (970) 926-1578, http://bearcatstables.com
Balloon rides - (Beaver Creek and Vail), Camelot Balloons, 4 Macdonald Eagle, Co., 81631,
(970) 328-2290
Dog sledding and snowmobiling (Breckenridge) - Good Times Adventures, 6061 Tiger Road, Breckenridge, (970) 453-7604, http://www.snowmobilecolorado.com
Historic walking tours (Telluride) - Ashley Boling walking tours by appointment, (970) 728-6639,
http://www.visittelluride.com/community-directory/ashley-boling
Bowling (Vail) – bōl, 141 E. Meadow Dr., Vail, (970) 476-5300, http://www.bolvail.com/bol
Dinner and a Movie Combo (Vail) - Cine Bistro at Solaris, 141 East Meadow Drive, Vail, Co., 81657, (970) .476-3344, http://cobbcinebistro.com/solaris/index.php
Transportation
Colorado Mountain Express - (800) 525-6363, http://www.coloradomountainexpress.com
Telluride Express - (970) 240-0813, http://www.tellurideexpress.com
Everyone has a wish list of places that they want to see and Niagara Falls was always on mine. After way too many years of just considering it, my husband and I finally decided to just do it. Situated about 400 miles from New York and approximately a 7 hour drive by car, we decided to drive as flights into the Niagara area were quite expensive. Taking along 2 of our grandchildren made the journey somewhat more challenging with the constant drone of, “Are we almost there yet?” but in spite of this little bit of exasperation, believe me it was worth it. Once we got close to the Falls you could see steam and they couldn’t believe that was just moisture rising off the water but that’s what it was. Someone had recommended we venture to the Canadian side so across the border we went. That meant of course taking along our passports and going through customs at the bridge spanning New York and Canada. Fortunately our grandsons were under 16 so they were off the hook. We didn’t even need to get out of the car and within minutes we were in Canada. Yes, they have attractions on both sides of the border but the Canadian side is definitely more scenic.
We decided on the Marriott Fallsview as our home away from home, one of the many hotels overlooking the Falls, and got goose bumps when we got our first glimpse outside our window. Our room had a spectacular view and my husband and I shared a little vino as we savored the fireworks displays on some of the nights along with the beautiful illumination that made the room almost a living, breathing thing. The hotel was top notch, a full service property with a Starbuck’s in the lobby, restaurants and lounge overlooking the main attraction and even a spa. Conveniently located next door to the Niagara Fallsview Casino, it offered a spectacular 2 night package that included buffet breakfast for 2, complimentary casino shuttle, a $75.00 dinner voucher at the Terrapin Grille restaurant where gourmet dining is accompanied by an incredibly romantic view of the Falls. We sprung for an upgrade to a Fallsview Room with a fireplace and comfortable chairs to enjoy that view.
As if that wasn’t enough the package also included a $40.00 spa certificate at Serenity Spa by the Falls. The spa offered a full range of treatments from a relaxing massage to reflexology, which uses the pressure points in the feet, hands, and head to benefit and promote healing throughout the entire body. The majestic Falls provided the backdrop as we slipped into deep relaxation and bliss. Signature treatments at Serenity ensure that your body, mind and soul are refreshed and reenergized. It was the ultimate spa experience in the ultimate location. Afterward we spoke with Anthony, the spa’s VP of Mktg. who clarified the experience, “Niagara Falls and the Serenity Spa is a magical combination that takes you to another world.” “It’s the closest hotel to the brink of the Falls. The spa has the advantage of a natural setting and creates an authentic environment where you can relax, refresh and revive. The range of services can make your time here truly memorable.” My husband and I gave in to the Cascade Signature Treatment, which was designed for couples and included facials, massages and deluxe spa pedicures followed by quiet time to unwind in our own private hydrotherapy tub by the fireplace.
Sounds enticing, right? Now what could be more perfect than to take a couple of days after the hectic holiday season and indulge yourself and your family? Our only disappointment was that we didn’t plan to stay longer. The Marriott had an enticing indoor pool with Jacuzzi which was just what we needed to relax prior to bedtime. My husband took advantage of the hotel’s gym and my grandsons the indoor pool while I lounged in the whirlpool.
Next day we were ready to tour the area. There are numerous tours and almost as many discount offers for the various attractions. We decided on The Adventure Pass which was within our budget and came with more coupons which were good for a number of attractions over a period of days, a map, and directions. Everything began at Table Rock Welcome Center, within walking distance of the hotel, where we caught the Falls Incline Railway for a quick one minute trip down to the main area. Our first adventure was Niagara’s Fury Journey Behind the Falls where we experienced the full force of the Falls, an amazing production which details every facet. All of us were simply fascinated. Using our all day transportation tickets we hopped aboard the People Mover Buses that take you to the other attractions. We then boarded the Maid of the Mist Boat for a journey into the Falls itself. Talk about an out of body experience! You literally feel the water as you venture closer, much further than we’d anticipated I might add. Back on land we hopped on the People Mover bus again to experience the force of the rapids on the White Water Walk which was awesome. We thought about doing the Whirlpool Aero Car ride but instead decided to venture into town to see what was possible for food and entertainment. We found a little Italian restaurant with the best lasagna right in the heart of town and felt what it was like to be in the nerve center of the area which for me was somewhat reminiscent of the boardwalks of New Jersey’s seashore. Yes, I’d have to admit it was all a bit honky-tonk but you have to appreciate that kind of scene once in a while. Finally, we took the Skywheel for an amazing view of everything. In the end, we had no time to include Ripley’s Believe it or Not or Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum or for that matter any of the other exciting rides.
At day’s end we were all exhausted and headed back to the hotel for dinner in the Terrapin Grille which, with the view and the gourmet food, was just what the doctor ordered. This was one trip that I intend to make again with more time for exploring the surrounding area and to experience the other attractions with an eye toward possibly driving further to Toronto.
There are seasonal festivals and one of the most beautiful one right now is called the Winter Festival of Lights. Canada’s foremost illumination festival captures the magic of the holiday season until January 31, 2012. Niagara Falls is transformed into a winter wonderland with over three million sparkling lights along a 6 kilometer route. There’s ice skating at the TK RINK at the Brink, grand holiday displays throughout the city, holiday concerts and many other events. Not to be missed is the Enchantment of Disney animated lighting displays which will mesmerize young and old alike with the magic of Disney.
Also on my bucket list is the Niagara Wine Escape Package which includes accommodations for two for two nights, $75.00 towards dinner at the Terrapin Grille, a Niagara on the Lake Winery Tour for 2-4 hours tour with tastings at the local wineries in the charming town of Niagara on the Lake. It comes complete with a gourmet lunch to go and of course a hot breakfast. What more could you pack into a weekend?
If that’s not enough, the Niagara IceWine Festival from Jan. 13-29, celebrates one of Canada’s hottest commodities. Niagara Icewine, made from grapes left on the vine to sweeten and then freeze, is served up at wineries and venues across the peninsula during the festival’s three-week run, including popular outdoor bars carved from ice in Jordan and Niagara-on-the-Lake.
As it was we wound up crossing back across the border into the U.S. with many wonderful memories. These will sustain us for a long time to come especially until our plans to go back and enjoy everything materialize.
The area codes for the Niagara Falls area are 905 in Canada and 716 in New York.
Where to Stay:
Marriot Fallsview- Can’t get sleep any closer to the falls than this! 6740 Fallsview Boulevard Niagara Falls, ON L2G 3W6, Canada. (905) 357-7300. www.niagrafallsmarriott.com
Red Coach Inn- Overlooks Niagara Falls majestic Upper Rapids and is modeled after the Bell Inn in Finedon, England. Red Coach offers many types of packages and is a great escape from your typical tower hotel. 2 Buffalo Ave, Niagara Falls NY. (716) 282-1459. www.redcoach.com
The Giacomo- This premiere luxury boutique hotel also features a residential component hosting 24 apartments with complete access to the hotel’s amenities. 222 First St. Niagara Falls, NY. (716)-299-0200. www.thegiacomo.com
Where to Eat:
Caffe Lola and Gelateria- Open all day this is a tasty spot to grab a Panini and some small plates. They do not have a liquor license. 507 3rd St. Niagara Falls, NY. (716)-282-5652. www.caffelola.com
Fortuna’s- This place has everything- Veal, chicken, steak etc. Come here for a filling Italian dinner or take out and eat at a nearby park. 827 19th St. Niagara Falls, NY. (716)-282-2252. www.fortunas.biz
The Keg Steakhouse & Bar-Located at the top of Niagara Falls this restaurant offers mouthwatering steaks, a great wine list and a breathtaking view of the falls. 6700 Fallsview Blvd Niagara Falls, Ontario. (905)-374-5170. www.fallsviewrestaurant.com
What to Do:
Maid of the Mist- Take this boat ride right past the falls to learn all about them and feel the sprays of water- good thing you’re supplied with a poncho! 151 Buffalo Ave. Niagara Falls, NY. (716)-284-8897. www.maidofthemist.com
Cave of Winds Tour- Your journey begins with an elevator ride 175 feet into the Niagara Gorge then you walk over wooden walkways to the Hurricane Deck and beyond. You wouldn’t dream of getting any closer to the falls. (716) 278-0337. www.niagarafallsstatepark.com
Childhood memories of Phoenix were a place of sun tea and 110 degree weather, a place lacking in charm and devoid of my own personal passion - fashion! Hired by Bloomingdale's, I arrived in New York City for their Executive Buyer Training program, escaping the dreariness of my childhood. But time marches on and now I look for any reason to escape the cold in the East. So, I jumped at the chance to attend my high school reunion in Phoenix and invited my 15 year-old-to be my date. Reluctantly she joined me in the adventure and we both left the cold behind us.
Somehow the Phoenix I remembered no longer resembled my youthful memories. Now I was looking at a sprawling urban evolution with numerous housing developments and multiple highways. I tried to access the landmarks but few remained, replaced by a surprisingly fresh and new perspective. Added to this, the surrounding mountains provided a scenic backdrop to the intricately planted landscape set against a desert that was serene and lovely.
On our first day, we sought out the Burton Barr Central Library to peruse old fashion telephone books in the Arizona Room (at my daughters suggestion) to look up my childhood addresses. To my surprise the library, which was built in 1995, was surrounded by a moat-like pool with high tech glass elevators and the magazine room housed hundreds of periodicals rivaling any East Coast Institution. We soon moved on to shop at No Money Pawn Shop, buying a fun piece of authentic native Indian jewelry for a song. Their wieldy stash of guns and knives intrigued us but we couldn't imagine doing any hunting in that heat. We were hoping for heat of a different kind in authentic Mexican food so while waiting to check-out I asked a Latino woman for her suggestion of a home style restaurant. Soon my question had circulated to other folks in the store and at last one of the patrons shouted, "Go a block and a half and turn right for Juan's Authentic Mexican Food. After guacamole, chips and salsa, enchiladas and a quesadilla, we were stuffed and pleasantly surprised that the bill totaled $15.00. As far as I was concerned my trip so far was a big success; I had at least found the food of my childhood.
Luxury of course is a nice thing to experience. As far as hotels in my hometown, the top of the pyramid is the historic Arizona Biltmore. Crowned "The Jewel of the Desert" in 1929 when it was built, its' art deco influence is infused with the legacy of Frank Lloyd Wright and today it almost seems like a living masterpiece even though it was actually designed by a student of Lloyd Wright's. We were fortunate to stay in the gracious Ocatilla wing where the halls are graced with historical pictures of the original hotel as well as more Art Deco decoration but translated with a modern twist. A lounge on the ground level offered continental breakfast, light evening fare and complimentary beer, wine and desert and the wing had its own private pool surrounded by colorful cabanas. The resort's gym facilities were expansive and I was even personally escorted in a golf cart and given access to the spa. Room service at the property was top notch and we swooned when we tasted their chocolate cheesecake with an Oreo crust. Spending private time with my daughter in our home away from home was the perfect bonding experience to arm me with courage to attend my high school reunion.
The reunion was far less painful than I expected but sadly, not memorable. My daughter was a little in culture shock by the experience and immediately texted her girlfriend, "My mom wants to know if she looks as old as her classmates?" She had to get in a little dig about my age but I got her back when I was awarded the "Certificate of Recognition" - for traveling the farthest to the reunion. We practically raced back to the oasis that the Biltmore had become.
The next day we headed north to Sedona for a quick day and half. I felt the pull of nature and the outdoors as we drove closer to the red rock mountains. The surrounding area is like no other in comparison to what I'm used to living the life of the hard core New York City resident. Plus, the chance to stay at the Enchantment Resort brought another dimension to the experience and our enhanced Casita Room, nestled in Boynton Canyon, was more than we could have wished for in our wildest dreams. Enchantment is surrounded by the Coconino National Forest and the Red Rock/Secret mountain Wilderness area, one of Arizona's most beautiful nature preserves. The wilderness contains the ruins of our beloved Native Americans.
We had made reservations at Mii amo, their destination spa, and decided to experience it ahead of check-in since the drive had tired us out. The spa takes its name from the Native American word for "journey" and offers complete state of the art fitness facilities as well as 22 treatment areas. I opted for a Chakra, a vibrational massage using different oils for each Chakra; it was Sedona after all, and I decided to go with the spiritual flow. My daughter went with a more traditional Swedish massage. We felt relaxed and revived afterward and decided to channel our psychic sides so we reserved a special fortune telling session with their popular astrologist on premises. They requested our dates of birth and time, so an official chart could be devised. I wanted to know my daughter's future, she wanted to know the present; would this school year bring a boyfriend and plentiful friends?
A highlight of our Sedona experience was Pink Jeep Tours. For more than 45 years they have provided an off- road adventure. The jeep literally leads you on the red rocks with views at Submarine Rock and Chicken point and at one point is positioned like a downward facing dog yoga pose. The descent down the "Road of no Return" is a heart pounding one and we were literally holding on to our hats. The guide was extremely knowledgeable and regaled us with stories about some of the rock formations which looked like different animals. I felt like I was learning about a whole new side of Arizona ... its geography, plants and history. Afterwards, I wanted to show my daughter one of my favorite places from my youth, Slide Rock State Park, an old apple orchard. Though a little treacherous, the canyon's refreshing cold water (65 degrees in summer) is fun to slide down as the natural rocks are smooth and slippery. Be sure to bring a pair of cut offs-- a swimsuit might not hold up!
Later that night we ended up at El Rincon for dinner. The night was quite cool but the restaurant provided blankets and the patio was warmly lit by heat lamps. Opened in 1976 as a premier restaurant in the Tlaquepaque Village, El Rincon was created as a family business and serves a unique "Arizona Style" traditional Mexican meal. I had the delicious chimichangas, with a spicy prickly pear margarita. I was warned not to drink too much as the designated driver in our small party of two. I consoled myself with a sopapilla dusted with cinnamon and topped with whipped cream and honey for desert.
The moment to head back to our big city life came way too fast when we had to catch the red eye. I surprised myself speeding down the highway as typically I seldom get the chance to drive back home. Even though we'd spent a mere 3 days together it was worth the trek. I had time-travelled to share a place that had little resemblance to my youthful days there but today had so much more to offer as an adult. What a wonderful leaning experience high school reunions can be!
NOTE FROM THE TRAVELSQUIRE EDITORS:
Mii Amo, at Enchantment Resort, is offering a new 7-night Journey presented by certified health counselor, Shelagh Dwyer. Along with luxury spa accommodations, daily meals at Mii Amo Café, 14 spa treatments, and full access to the resort's premier facilities and services, each participant will receive their own personalized healthy lifestyle program. They will gain specific knowledge pertaining to nutrition, fitness, and stress reduction techniques so they may achieve long-term wellness and continue on their road to self-renewal. The experience is great for people who are looking to begin the new year with a fresh start and what better place to find some inner peace than in the sacred sitting of Boynton Canyon.
The area code for Phoenix is 602.
The area code for Sedona is 928.
Where to Stay:
Ocatilla at Arizona Biltmore:
2400 East Missouri Avenue
Phoenix, Arizona 85016
602-955-6600
www.arizonabiltmore.com
Enchantment Resort:
525 Boynton Canyon Road
Sedona, Arizona 86336
928-282-2900
http://www.enchantmentresort.com
El Portal Sedona Hotel:
97 Portal Lane
Sedona, AZ 86336
800-313-0017
Where to Eat:
Juan's Authentic Mexican Food
1516 E. Thomas Road
Phoenix, Arizona 85014
602-241-1918
El Rincon Tlaquepaque
336 Highway 179#A112
Sedona, Arizona 86336-6102
Open Monday 11 am to 4pm
Tues – Sat 11 am to 9pm
Sunday – 11 am to 8pm
928-282-4648
What to do:
Mi amo, a destination Spa at Enchantment
525 Boynton Canyon Road
Sedona, AZ 86336
Reservations 888-749-2137
http://www.miiamo.com
Burton Barr Central Library
1221 N. Central Avenue
Phoenix Arizona 85004
Monday 9am to 5pm
Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday 11:00 am to 9pm
Friday and Saturday 9 am to 5pm
Sunday 1 to 5pm
No Money Pawn Shop
1152 East Indian School Road
Phoenix, Arizona 85014
Open daily 10 am to 7 pm
602-279-4417
Pink Jeep Tours
204 N. State Route 89A
Sedona, Arizona 86336
800-873-3662
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
Slide Rock State Park
6871 N. Highway 89A
Sedona, Arizona 86336
928-282-3034
Down in the Hole
Once in a while everyone needs to get away from the everyday grind and all the responsibilities that go with it but it's rare that we actually go "off the grid" and just get lost. Part of the problem with taking a true vacation is that there is a finite list of places that afford you a vacuum of time and space devoid of the frenzy often associated with our modern lifestyles. I'm happy to report that Kauai is on that list. For one week you can live the carefree life you dream about during long days at work, the life that people on the island call being "down in the hole."
The first thing that newcomers notice about Kauai is its greenness. If you've seen Ireland then you'll know what I mean; Kauai, however, is different. The sun may shine more in one week on Kauai than perhaps the whole year in Ireland, and everything is lush. It is the Garden Isle after all. But that's not what's stayed with me, now back in my day to day. To me Kauai represents a feeling of being isolated in a laidback paradise, happy and content with what you have at any given moment.
Because cheap foreign labor outside the U.S. brought about the collapse of the sugarcane and pineapple industries, Hawaii's central industry is now tourism, which is both a plus and a minus. It means that everyone there welcomes travelers to their island with open arms, but on some you'll also be overwhelmed by over-priced touristy things. But Kauai has always been the quietest and most secluded of the four major Hawaiian Islands and it maintains a laidback, casual atmosphere. If you're looking for designer shopping, massive resorts, and nightclubs, go to Honolulu.
Kauai is the kind of place that has a single-screen movie theatre showing a movie that already played in New York months ago and has a dinner dress code allowing for flip-flops ("slippers" in Hawaii) and swim trunks. Yes, they have wireless internet, cruise ships, and posh beach resorts, but it's the kind of place that forces you not to care about those things, the kind of place that pulls you happily "down in the hole."
With just under 70,000 people on the entire island, you won't find big cities, but the island is rife with natural wonders to enjoy. You won't miss the disco after you've watched the sun set golden and red over the water or felt the cool ocean breeze sweep through the tall grasses or stared up at misty clouds clinging to cliffs looming high above you.
Perhaps the most essential natural wonder of Kauai is the beach. On the southern tip of the island, the Poipu Beach area is the perfect place to experience the laidback Kauai lifestyle. Spending the day in the sun with green sea turtles, hundreds of colorful fish, the occasional Monk seal, and a good book is one of the most satisfying ways to relax and unwind. Native Hawaiians and tourists alike mingle on the beautiful white sand or crowd around the grills in the big, grassy park, filling the air with the aroma of seasoned meat and the sound of laughter. If you're looking to challenge yourself physically, check out the easternmost bay along the Poipu Beach park. This narrow bay funnels sizeable waves toward the small strip of sand making it prime boogie boarding and body surfing territory.
There are some excellent restaurants in the Poipu area, but one of the most fun ways to eat is to make your own dinner on the beach and watch the sun set. You'll find lots of great Hawaiian products at the grocery stores (Hawaiian pineapples are better than any you've tried ... just trust me) but the freshest produce is found at the tiny street-side stands and farmer's markets all over the island. The Kalaheo Sunshine Market, just up the road from Poipu, happens every Tuesday afternoon at 3PM. You have to get there early for the best selection of produce but what you find will be excellent and it's a great place to experience the Kauai atmosphere.
It's held in a community center parking lot stained red by the iron rich soil that's tracked in by trucks from the farms. Six or seven vendors sit on the beds of the parked trucks or under the protection of large umbrellas and tarps with the week's produce laid out in front of them. You can find all kinds of interesting things including apple bananas, guavas, butter avocados, Okinawa sweet potatoes, mangoes, dragon fruit, and Surinam cherries.
As we perused the wares, one sun wrinkled Hawaiian lady regaled us with a cautionary tale about tourists who bought some of her Okinawa sweet potatoes (delicious sweet potatoes with a unique, bright purple interior) without letting her explain the difference, boiled them at home, then tried to return them next week because they were purple. She kept up a pleasant string of chatter and gave us helpful instructions with a big grin, "Here, here, put a couple of these chiles in your soy sauce, then dip some chicken or beef in it, and you'll fall in love. That's what I do!"
The nearby town of Koloa, which was the sight of Hawaii's first successful sugar mill, is also worth exploring. There was live music along the bank of the Waikomo Stream, protected from the sun by a massive tree. And you can get a shave ice, a famous red dirt T-shirt or any number of other gifts at some of the Old Town shops, but the Koloa Rum Co. just down the road is the real treat. It opened only a few years ago but the distillery already produces a line of excellent rums from white to gold to dark. If you visit the company store and tasting room you can even get free tastings of the different rums while chatting with the bartender at their on-site bar. Nothing helps beat the heat like a couple shots of rum mixed with their signature Mai Tai mix!
You should definitely go up to the northern tip of the island also. The road is narrow and windy because the area is sparsely populated but at the end you'll find must see beaches like Ke'e and Tunnels. Ke'e Beach is a picturesque, white strip of sand perfect for tanning and looks out on sapphire blue water that begs for a swim while Tunnels Beach is a snorkeler's paradise with beautiful corral formations, complete with deep trenches and lots of turtles and fish.
But perhaps the most famous landmark on the island is Waimea Canyon. Known as the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," this magnificent, high-elevation canyon may not rival the Grand Canyon in size but it definitely does in beauty. The long and winding Waimea Canyon Road provides several stunning lookout points where you can gaze on the bright red and green spattered cliffs. As you hop from one lookout to the other, absorbing the grandeur of Kauai's crown jewel, you may find a whole afternoon disappearing and you won't mind a bit. That's the thing about Kauai. You cherish the lazy, carefree way in which time passes there.
As you descend from Waimea Canyon, you'll go through a cute, sleepy little town named Waimea. There are some sizeable beaches nearby but no major attractions, except for a tiny yellow shack on the side of the road. Jo Jo's Shave Ice is the best shave ice in Hawaii so people come from all over the island to get their fix. Even a place this popular, which could probably spawn a chain, remains a simple shack with ridiculously low prices and a sign that lists their hours as:
"9 or 10, sometimes 11, mostly 12 or 1,"
until
"5 or 6, sometimes 4, mostly 2 or 3",
and then
only if the surf is low, there aren't any luaus, and the employees feel like working.
Maybe they're serious and maybe they're not but you get the feeling that it doesn't really matter. You'll get your shave ice at some point and there's plenty to do in the meantime. The sun is shining, the waves are rolling in, and people are having a good time. So, can you really blame them if they skip out on work once in a while? Sometimes, even Hawaiians need to disappear "down in the hole."
Getting There: Hawaiian Airlines just announced daily nonstop service between JFK and Honolulu beginning in June, 20112. From there it's a quick connect on the carrier's regularly scheduled flights to Kauai.
The area code for Kauai is 808.
Where to Stay
Kaua’i Marriott Resort- Great place to explore this warm island hospitality. Right on Garden Isle this hotel just underwent a $50 million upgrade with enhancements on all guestrooms, suites, restaurants and pool deck. Kalapaki Beach, 3610 Rice Street- Lihue. (808) 245-5050. www.marriott.com/Kauai
Poipu Kai Resort – expansive resort filled with one to five bedroom condos, homes, and studio cottages located within easy walking distance of the Poipu Beach park. Each rental comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, washer and dryer, cable TV, and an ironing board (mine even had some boogie boards, beach chairs, and umbrella). The resort also has tennis courts, swimming pools, Jacuzzi spa, and jogging paths for communal use. 800-367-8020 www.suite-paradise.com/poipu-vacation-rentals/poipu-kai-resort
Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa- This Four-Diamond hotel offers its guests their own personalized retreat. Be sure to Kayak in the lagoons, get a spa treatment at the Anara Spa and dance the night away at their authentic Luaus. 1571 Poipu Road, Koloa Kauai. (808) 742-1234. www.kauai.hyatt.com
Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas- This resort lies along the lush cliff on the north shore of Kaua’i. It is 200 feet about the Pacific Ocean with a pool looking out at the beaches and off to the horizon. The villas have intuitively designed floor plans that offer the conveniences of home. 3838 Wyllie Road. (808) 827-8700. www.westinprinceville.com
Where to Eat
Duke's – great surf-and-turf restaurant located in the Kauai Marriott resort overlooking the Nawiliwili Bay. Dark wood interior, fun atmosphere centered on the famous Hawaiian surfer Duke Kahanamoku, and beautiful open windows facing the water. Fresh seafood, tender steaks, unlimited salad bar, and Kimo's Original Hula Pie for dessert. www.dukes.kauaimarriot.com
Cafe Portofino - Ocean breezes and soft lighting provide the perfect ambience on the terrace of Cafe Portofino which fronts one of the most beautiful beaches in Kauai. The menu features the full monte of Italian specialties with a nod toward the North. Osso Bucco comes almost as big as the plate itself and Chicken Piccata is as light as air. Don't even think about passing up the 5 star Tirami Su for dessert. www.portofino.kauaimarriot.com
Merriman's Fish House – Phenomenal fine dining restaurant that thrives on using fresh, sustainable and local products. Elegant white exterior with comfortable dining room and back veranda looking out on lush Kauai fields and the Pacific Ocean. Specializes in seafood, but also has great steaks, and unbelievable desserts. Trust me, do not pass up the lobster mac and cheese to start. Located in the Kukui'ula Mall. 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka Street, Koloa, Kauai www.merrimanshawaii.com
Bubba's Burgers – Kauai natives have the same level of affection for Bubba's as west coasters (and even smart east coasters) do for In-N-Out, and for good reason. Bubba's serves fresh, grass fed Kauai beef with their special ketchup based relish on a toasted bun. Excellent burgers for a great price, but the atmosphere of the place might be its best asset. Bubba's proudly flaunts an irreverent sense of humor with slogans like "Bubba refuses to serve any burger that costs less than a can of dog food" and "We relish your buns." www.bubbaburger.com
Jo Jo's Shave Ice – Best shave ice in Hawaii, and that's saying something. For all you newbies, these aren't snow cones. Shave ice is ground finer and doused in better syrup than the snow cones we all grew up dissatisfied with. They have something like 60 flavors to mix and match plus vanilla cream to pour on top. But the real treat is the ice cream they put at the bottom. You won't want anything else on a hot day ever again.
What to Shop
Kong Lung Trading- This is the most original store on Kauai or in the world for that matter. It’s the gem of the Kong Lung Historic Center which at one time was the Old Kilauea Sugar Plantation company store. The historic center features several stores and restaurants and is worth a stop on the way to Princeville. The store is curated by owner Patty Ewing, with an ever changing selections of gifts, décorative items for the home, accessories and apparel. The product mix assures that you’ll find a gift for everyone in your family. Kong Lung Trading is located in Kilauea, Kauai, 808-828-1822 www.konglung.com
What to See & Do
Waimea Canyon – The "Grand Canyon of the Pacific." Stunning views at the top of a beautiful mountain drive. The mixture of red and green really sets it apart from other canyons. Lots of hiking trails start from up near the canyon, some of which go out to the Na Pali Coast.
Na Pali Coast - a helicopter tour of the awesome cliffs of Na Pali and the 15 mile stretch of coastland on the Northwest shore of the island is an unforgettable experience. Don't give in to fear - go! Jack Harter Helicopters, 808-245-3774, www.helicopters-kauai.com
Tunnels Beach – Fabulous snorkeling beach with great coral formations, swarms of colorful fish, and green sea turtles. Also has fine white sand, so you can relax in the sun. Unique atmosphere with abrupt green mountains hanging over the beach.
Allerton and McBryde Botanical Gardens – Located right next to each other, these are two of the U.S.'s five National Tropical Botanical Gardens. You have to pay to tour them, but it's well worth it. Both are stunning environments of intense natural beauty. You'll find collections original native Hawaiian plants, plants that the Polynesian explorers brought over, and a huge variety of spices.
You Gotta Have Art
Art Basel Miami Beach Returns with a Constellation of Fairs, Exhibitions, and Events
If you love art and design and don't mind crowds, head to Miami the first week of December for what's become known as Miami Art Week. The annual celebration of art and design transforms Miami, an already art and design conscious city, into a place where you can't pass a fire hydrant without wondering if it's a signed piece. Organized around Art Basel Miami Beach (ABMB), most exhibitions and events take place in Miami Beach or across the bay in Midtown Miami, the Wynwood Arts District, and the Miami Design District.
On the Beach
Ten years ago, Miami Beach may have seemed an unusual choice to host a sister fair for Switzerland based Art Basel, an internationally acclaimed art show for modern and contemporary art running 42 years. But, in retrospect, it was an inspired one, with Art Basel Miami Beach (ABMB) becoming one of the most important art shows in the U.S. as well as a draw for more than 40,000 art loving, sun seeking curators, critics, gallerists, collectors, artists, designers, socialites and celebrities from around the globe.
Held in the Miami Beach Convention Center, ABMB presents 20th and 21st century artwork by more than 2,000 artists represented by more than 260 leading art galleries in the U.S., Latin America, Europe, Asia and Africa. Divided into several sections, it presents both established and up and coming artists in a variety of formats. Adding to a heady cultural brew are Art Conversations, Art Salons, Art Positions, Art Video (in association this year with London's Artprojx and projected on the giant wallscreen of the newly opened New World Center designed by Frank Gehry), Art Film (curated by Zurich connoisseur, This Brunner), and Art Public (sculptures and performances presented in Collins Park in collaboration with the Bass Museum of Art). Art Video and Art Public are free.
Anticipating tired eyes and throbbing feet? The lovely, newly redesigned Miami Beach Botanical Gardens, directly across from the convention center, can provide a welcome respite from your ABMB art immersion. For a physical as well as emotional adjustment, there's YogArt Fair beginning November 30th at the Loews Hotel Miami Beach. For refreshments and retail therapy, the Lincoln Road pedestrian mall is nearby.
If ABMB is Art Basel's sister fair, then Design Miami is its' first cousin. The fairs are located near one another both in Basel and in Miami. The 7th annual Design Miami will showcase 20th and 21st century museum quality, collectible, and often stunning designs from more than 20 world class design galleries as well as four emerging ones. There will be Design Talks hosted by Stefano Tonchi and W Magazine and new design projects by Fendi, Audi and Swarovski. Visitors to the fair will be greeted by an exclusively commissioned installation created by African architect David Adjaye, the fair's Designer of the Year.
Hotel housed art fairs give new meaning to the expression "room with a view" and present a way to view art that is often private and intimate. It's not unusual to see shoes tucked under beds or art displayed in bathrooms. Most of these fairs are clustered around ABMB. The Greenwich Hotel, new home for Verge Art Miami Beach, is just half a block from the convention center and will include two juried exhibitions of emerging art. Ink Miami Art Fair, in the Dorchester Suites and sponsored by the International Fine Art Dealers Association, shows contemporary works on paper, including 20th century masters and just published editions. Pool Art Fair in the Carlton Hotel, follows the French tradition of artists' fairs and is dedicated to unrepresented artists while Art Now, in the Catalina Hotel, is a curated contemporary show.
Arts for a Better World at the Surfcomber Hotel will feature "Tous Ensemble" (All Together), an installation decrying violence by acclaimed French artist Marc Ash as well as The Van Gogh's Dream, a pavilion in which the room where the artist spent his last days will be recreated. It will also show videos about his life and house contemporary works that pay him tribute. A recreation of another kind is Will Ryman's twenty-two foot high bed...of sculpted roses at the Sagamore Hotel. Seattle based Aqua Art Miami will showcase forty five exhibitors in the Aqua Hotel. Sponsored by Modern Painter, it will have a VIP opening and include unique collaborations such as one installation created by a Navajo Nation artist working with Miccosukee Nation artists and another by artist Adad Hannah and Oscar winning filmmaker Denys Arcard.
Further south on famed Ocean Drive in South Beach, the Art Deco Welcome Center's new Burst Art Fair promises emerging artists and galleries and will include mixed media pieces, surreal pop art, indie film shorts, street art, sculpture, and photography. In the historic Deauville Hotel up in North Miami Beach, the 9th NADA (National Art Dealers Association) will showcase emerging art from more than thirty cities worldwide in ballrooms where Frank Sinatra and the Beatles once performed (but not together).
Across the Bay
Art Miami, now going strong for twenty-two years, found a new 125,000 square foot home in Midtown Miami several years ago and moved its dates to coincide with ABMB. With plentiful parking, restaurants and shopping nearby, the area's just a short ride across the bay from Miami Beach. Art Miami will showcase modern and contemporary art from more than one hundred art institutions and galleries in Europe, Asia, Latin America, India, the Middle East and the U.S.
Other art fairs have also located in Midtown. Across the street from Art Miami, ten year old Scope Miami will include eighty international emerging art galleries with solo and thematic shows as well as film, music, installation and performance art. Pulse, located closer to downtown Miami, has a similar range of art, but edgier. Art Asia features Southeast Asian, Near and Middle Eastern art. At the Rotunda, a pop-up location in Midtown, the SushiSamba Restaurant Group dishes up the exhibition "Graffiti Gone Global" with French architect Marc Fornes' 30 foot wide structure.
Just north of Midtown Miami is Wynwood Arts District, home to more than fifty cutting edge galleries, artist studios, art complexes, museum collections, restaurants and lounges. It's also home to more than 200 murals, making it a veritable outdoor art museum. Both car and pedestrian traffic increase exponentially during Miami Art Week. A popular destination is Wynwood Walls, an urban park displaying twenty murals by international artists. Neighboring restaurants decorated with street art will be filled with art lovers, revelers, and art-loving revelers. Some neighborhood fairs have both indoor and outdoor venues, such as Multiversal Art Fair, which offers art, music, and live performances and Seven, organized by seven galleries in a 15,000 square foot warehouse.
At the western end of the Miami Design District, a stone's throw north of Midtown and Wynwood, is the de la Cruz Contemporary Art Space which will have a special exhibition of local artists Justin Long and Robert Lorie. It Ain't Fair, with 20 artists, including acclaimed local artist Daniel Arsham, will be organized around the timely theme of materialism. The Buick Building on the eastern end will house The Craig Robins Collection of Art & Design while in the nearby Moore Building on the second floor, Haiti Art Expo II will raise money for housing for hurricane victims. Also there will be "Architecture and the Air" by Christopher Janney, whose new "Harmonic Convergence" interactive art installation will debut at Miami International Airport for Miami Art Week.
Miami Art Museum, the Bass Museum of Art, the Wolfsonian Museum, and MOCA North Miami Beach are among the local museums hosting special events and exhibitions during Miami Art Week. Some of Miami's renowned private collections are housed in museum-like buildings and open to the public; the Rubell family collection, COIF (Cisneros Fontanas Art Foundation), and The Margulies Collection in Wynwood will have extended hours as well as special exhibitions. Art incubators, The Bakehouse in Wynwood and the Art Center/South Florida on Lincoln Road in South Beach, will also host special exhibitions.
If you have the time to venture further, ahem, afield, you can visit Fairchild Tropical Garden to see Will Ryman's giant flower sculptures or Viscaya Museum & Gardens to see Naomi Fisher's video and installation. On December 4, from 9:30 to 12, The Frost Museum at FIU will host its annual free Breakfast in the Park, which includes brunch, lecture by noted sculptor Joel Perlman and tour of the sculpture garden – a delicious, refreshing way to conclude Miami Art Week.
Where to View Miami Art Week's best:
Art Basel Miami Beach
December 1-4
Miami Beach Convention Center
1901 Convention Center Drive
www.Artbaselmiamibeach.com
Arts for a Better World
November 30 – December 7
Surfcomber Hotel
1717 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach
www.Artsforabetterworld.com
Aqua Art Miami
December 2 - 5
The Aqua Hotel
1530 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach
www.Aquaartmiami.com
Art Asia
December 1-5
2901 North Miami Avenue (entrance on Midtown Boulevard)
Miami
www.Artasiafair.com
Art Miami
December 1 -5
Midtown Boulevard (NE lst Avenue) between NE 32 & NE 31 Streets
Miami
www.Art-miami.com
Art Now
December 1 -4
Catalina Hotel
1732 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach
www.Artnowfair.com
Burst Project Art Fair
November 30 – December 5
Ocean Drive at 10th
Miami Beach
www.Burstartfair.org
Design Miami
November 30 – December 4
Meridian Avenue & 19th Street
Miami Beach
www.Designmiami.com
Fountain Miami
Dec. 1 – 4
2505 North Miami Avenue
Miami
www.Fountainartfair.com
Graffiti Gone Global
December 1 -4
3252 NW lst Avenue
Miami
www.Gggexhibit.com
Haiti Art Expo II
December 1 - 4
4040 NE 2nd Avenue
Miami
Ink Miami Art Fair
November 30 – Dec. 4
Suites of Dorchester
1850 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach
www.Inkartfair.com
It Aint Fair
December 1 -4
81 NE 40th Street
Miami
www.oh-wow.com
Multiversal Art Fair
December 1 – 4
193 NW 24th Street
Miami
www.Multiversalmiami.com
NADA (New Art Dealers Alliance)
December 1 - 4
The Deauville Beach Resort
6701 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach
www.nadaartfair.org/about
Pool Art Fair
Dec. 2 – 4
Carlton Hotel
1433 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach
www.Poolartfair.com
PULSE
December 1 - 4
Ice Palace
1400 North Miami Avenue
Miami
www.Pulse-art.com
Red Dot
November 30 – December 4
3011 NE lst Avenue at NW 31st Street
Miami
www.Reddotfair.com
Scope Art Miami
November 29 – Dec. 4
3055 North Miami Avenue
Miami
www.Scope-art.com
Seven
November 29 – Dec. 4
2637 North Miami Avenue
Miami
www.Seven-miami.com
Verge Art Miami Beach
December 1-4
Greenview Hotel
1671 Washington Avenue
Miami Beach
www.Vergeartfair.com
Zone Art Fair Miami
Nov. 30 – Dec. 3
47 NE 25th St.
Miami
www.Zonesartfair.com
Additional helpful info:
*SUGGESTIONS FROM THE TRAVEL SQUIRE EDITORIAL STAFF
Where to Sleep
Hotel Victor- This hotel sits right on famous, art deco Ocean Drive and overlooks the beautiful white beaches of Miami. Can't get more in the scene than this. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/en-suite/item/143-hotel-victor-miami-beach) 1144 Ocean Drive; (305) 428-1234; www.hotelvictorsouthbeach.com
Z Ocean Hotel- This hotel is perfectly positioned between Collins and Ocean Drive in the heart of all that is fabulous and glamorous. The breezy passage way is the perfect place to relax and escape the summer sun. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/en-suite/item/295-miami-florida) 1437 Collins Avenue; (305) 672-4554; www.zoceanhotelsouthbeach.com
The Raleigh Hotel- Their famous, picturesque pool is a must see and provides an amazingly exotic atmosphere. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/en-suite/item/447-miami-florida) 1775 Collins Avenue; (305)-534-6300; www.raleighhotel.com
The Clinton Hotel and Spa- Your own personal hot tub balcony with sounds from the waterfall flowing into the courtyard pond below sets up a most relaxing hideaway just far enough from the Miami buzz. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/en-suite/item/442-miami-florida 825 Washington Ave; (305)-538-1472; www.clintonsouthbeach.com
National Hotel- it doesn't hurt to hole up at a glorious South Beach landmark especially when you're hanging with the high rolling art crowd. 1677 Collins Avenue. (305) 532-2311. www.nationalhotel.com
Lords Hotel- the dazzling lobby bar says it all, bring your dress up duds. Good location for heading to Barney's for something to tweak your outfit. 1120 Collins Ave. (305) 674-7800. www.lordssouthbeach.com
Where to Eat
Red, The Steakhouse- Come here for a hearty meal, with excellent flavor and wash it down with a ½ oz. pour of Remy Martin Louis XIII from the bar. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/428-miami-beach-florida) 119 Washington Avenue; (305) 534-3688; www.redthesteakhouse.com
City Hall- Enjoy the neighborhood feel this place has and the delicious home cooked meals like macaroni and cheese. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/689-miami-florida) 2004 Biscayne Boulevard; (305) 764-3130; www.cityhalltherestaurant.com
1500 Degrees- This five star experience in the Eden Roc Hotel is just steps away from the pool and beach, great setting to throw a large party! (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/688-miami-beach-florida) 4525 Collins Avenue; (305) 674-5588; www.1500degreesmiami.com
WISH- sit outside on a warm and balmy evening and you'll feel like you're in a tropical jungle. Be sure to order cocktails and save the glowing LED ice cubes. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/450-miami-florida) 801 Collins Avenue; (305) 674-9474; www.wishrestaurant.com
Quattro- smack in the vortex of SoBe (South Beach). Come here for amazing Italian cuisine and desserts prepared by award winning chef Antonio Bachour. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/687-miami-beach-florida) 1014 Lincoln Road; (305) 531-4833; www.quattromiami.com
Michy's- possibly the most creative comfort food in Miami. Portions are big and delicious, you will not leave hungry. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/410-miami-florida) 6927 Biscayne Boulevard; (305) 759-2001; www.chefmichellebernstein.com
Sugarcane Bar & Grill- Midtown's new hot spot with a way cool vibe. Kick back and enjoy a beet mojito on the terrace then sample some of their fabulous tapas. This place is cozy and fun, decorated with 'found objects' and graffiti art. 3252 NE 1st Ave #115; (786) 369-0353; www.sugarcanerawbargrill.com
Québec’s Active Lifestyle
While waiting to board my flight to Québec City I got the sense that I was going somewhere international. A short hour and five minutes later I was staring at a landscape of trees upon landing. I quickly understood what the Québecers had already made clear to me ... the great outdoors is just beyond their back door. Past the jet bridge was a welcome in two languages, French, and then English. I was here in the international capital of the province of Québec ... a place I wanted to visit for a long time.
In retrospect I think I may have had a subconscious reticence about coming. My French was rusty and I'd heard comments about the city being mostly French speaking. Thoughts of Paris in North America ran through my mind but let's set the record straight, OK? It's true that Québec City is the cradle of French civilisation in North America and its' official language is French. If you are studying French or are a novice at French conversation and want to improve, put it at the top of your list. Beyond that, this charming World Heritage site with overwhelmingly friendly and sophisticated people combines the best of two worlds and just about everyone speaks English, too. I was about to discover a little of both and get to practice some of my rusty French along with it.
Founded as the colony of "Nouvelle France" back in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain, Québec is an Indian word meaning "where the river narrows" and this is true of the St. Lawrence River here which, like its' sister city Montreal 155 miles to the west, borders the city and creates a spectacular vantage point to explore. My first glimpse of romantic Vieux Québec, (Old City) just 16 km from the airport, came after a beautiful 10 minute drive along the shore of the St. Lawrence on the Promenade Champlain. Here a wide bicycle track and snaking pedestrian path form the foundation for a spectacular urban park punctuated by contemporary art installations that interact with the landscape design. Completed in 2008 in commemoration of the city's 400th anniversary, it's a green oasis in the middle of the city and I was told it was a project that revitalized the area, turning run down apartments into desirable townhouses. A few days later I, myself, would be pedalling this shore by cycle, marvelling at the seamless sequence of unexpected visual atmospheres along the route and thinking that I'd love to be able to do it every day. It didn't hurt that the September weather was fantastic and the brilliant sun and temps in the eighties practically called for short-sleeves.
Québec City has a distinct European character and is the only fortified city in North America. Vieux Québec is a magnet for the curious, steeped in history everywhere you turn. Narrow cobblestone streets and massive stone walls encircle the town and a Citadelle out of a Gothic novel stands watch. You'll quickly find yourself roaming these streets of antiquity, peering into quaint shops and longing to peek inside the historic houses and buildings. Hailing from Philadelphia, I'm no stranger to colonial architecture, but the hilly geography here reminded me of a colonial San Francisco. Actually divided into two towns as a result of four major hills, the Upper Town (Haute Ville) and Lower Town (Basse-Ville), are connected by a set of killer stairs known as the Escalier Casse-cou (the back-breaking steps). The adjacent Old Québec Funicular bypasses these and deposits you up in Upper Town in the shadow of Chateau Frontenac, the city's most famous landmark. My guide told me that Québecers choose to stay in shape and avoid the cost but as a tourist you can't beat the views along the steep 45 degree angle climb. Save your strength and energy for the outdoor activities to come.
Vieux Quebec practically begs for a good walk, so stroll the Lower Town's animated Quartier Petit Champlain first, paying close attention to Rue du Petit-Champlain, where the restored houses lining the street are now home to a picturesque promenade of shops and cafes, and the atmosphere is European. Have a quick look around the Vieux Port where the Gare du Palais train station, looking like a French Renaissance castle, is straight out of a fairy tale. The fountain nearby in the Place de la Gare celebrates the power of water and is particularly spectacular at night. Head down rue St.Paul, past posh boutiques and antique shops and turn up rue St. Antoine, a short block that dead ends at the Auberge-St. Antoine. This luxe boutique hotel is a journey into the past. In the lobby is an awesome museum-like display of hundreds of artefacts from the 17th century onward, discovered during an archaeological dig on the site. It's a unique exposition for visitors and provides a canvas to view the city's DNA. Outside, walk left on rue du Sault-au-Mateolot and look for the Mural of Québecers, a fresco depicting 400 years of history painted with 15 historical figures. It's a quirky window into the city's evolution and a great photo "op" that puts the city in perspective. A few steps further lands you smack in the middle of Place Royal, the heart of Basse Ville where the city began. Admire the bust of King Louis XIV, the man who started it all. You've made a "tour" and are ready to ascend to the Haut Ville.
Once upstairs, you'll find yourself in the Place d'Armes with Champlain's statue in front of you and scenic views of the St. Lawrence behind. Here in the Haut Ville you have a true village atmosphere with every street worth exploring. The unparalleled quality and variety of restaurants here puts Québec on a pedestal for exquisite cuisine highlighting regional produce. Take a few days and unwind in the "ville" and let your intuition be your guide as there's so much to discover and much of it within walking distance, too. Just remember that less than 30 minutes from here are hundreds of places to enjoy nature and culture both so you shouldn't spend all your time in the city. The endless list of activities available and the breathtaking natural scenery in all seasons is just a few minutes' drive from downtown.
During my visit, the second annual Grand Prix du Cyclistes was taking place (see accompanying article in Inside Scoop), a major sports event with two bike races (the 2nd following a few days later in Montréal) in which the elite of men's professional road cycling were competing. The city's hilly terrain was made to measure for this race and with the unique landscape as a backdrop and the brilliant sunshine it brought out much of the townsfolk cheering on their favorites. Enthusiastic crowds thronged the route and watching the lithe cyclists complete 16 circuits around the city got me in the mood for a little physical adventure of my own. Since Québec City is one of the few cities that blends urban life with nature's pleasures, I decided on a few day trips away from the city center yet still relatively close, to channel my adventurous side. I knew that Québec's parks were renowned for state of the art sports and recreational facilities and the awesome spectacle of the landscape would inspire me to perform. I'm always craving a closeness with nature so I got psyched to discover Jacques Cartier National Park (1 hour by car), the Vallée Bras-du-Nord (45 min by car) and Duchesnay Tourist Resort (30 min by car).
Driving is a cinch out of the city and if you leave after the morning rush you'll be en plein air in no time. Quebec's vast natural surroundings began to roll before my eyes after just about 25 miles from downtown and the scenery was incredibly beautiful especially as it was still summer. It was hard to believe that in another 20 minutes I was already at the Laurentian Mountains. Québec's 22 tourist regions boast numerous lakes and rivers as well as two mountain ranges and the vast domain of the Parc National de la Jacques Cartier was my first destination. Located 50 km north of Québec City, the park offers 100 kilometers of hiking trails, canoeing and kayaking, river rafting, cross country skiing and snowshoeing. Put it at the top of your list if you're looking for the perfect outdoor adventure.
Covering 26 kilometers of the environs, the Jacques Cartier River is one of the park's best assets and is the best way to view the dazzling scenery. A pretty spiffy, state of the art Discovery and Visitors Center greeted our small group and we set out on a hike to get to know the park. As we climbed over ancient rock formations and through phosphorescent caves I began to feel like a kid at the playground. Tommy, our guide, was as thorough with explanations as a teacher on a field trip and after about an hour exploring the boreal forest he was ready with a quiz about prehistoric conditions. Out of breath all I could answer was ... duh. I did see some unusual mushrooms however, and that got my mind to wandering about stats. Hmmm, a camping adventure next time with a magic mushroom stew?
After a sunny picnic lunch we waded into the river to paddle downstream in our mini-raft. The park offers a thrilling 8 km run featuring 4 Class I and II rapids and our group of 8 was up for it. Thanks to our guide Rene, I quickly learned when to paddle and when to ... collapse. By now the blazing sun had us in a sweat and a couple daredevils in the group opted for a quick dive into the frigid waters during the calm stretches. Are you kidding? No way, Jose! I admit I was tempted but even the strongest among us was shivering after the plunge. We finished the day exhausted and on a high waiting for what the next day would bring.
We set out bright and early in the morning for the Vallée Bras-du-Nord, an ecotourism coop in the region of St. Raymond in Portneuf. The Vallée is a sustainable tourist development with a breathtaking valley, a winding river, numerous mountains and cliffs and a majestic waterfall. It's also a leading destination for mountain biking and has some of the best single tracks a bike could ever wish for but I had already loosened up my cycling limbs in town. After some serious soul searching I decided to go full monte and chose an adventure called canyoning where you climb down a mountain under a shower of waterfalls. We've all heard of the rigors of going up, right ... well, this is the reverse. After donning our gear and packing the additional gear for the descent, we crossed the world's narrowest bridge and hiked what seemed like an Olympic stretch up the mountain. Thirty minutes later we were getting our lesson ... what if I changed my mind? Sorry, Charlie, there's only one way back down! This was a hairy adventure I admit and scary as all hell but Marc, our fearless guide calmed our nerves and made us realize we could do it. Back on solid ground I was soaked, and not from the cascades ... how about buckets of sweat from pure fear? Would I do it again? What do you think?
My last adventure found me playing Tarzan. Let's just say I think I really needed the costume to channel that groove but I gave it my best. Station Duchesnay is a nature resort situated on 82 km of woodlands on the shores of Lake St. Joseph, just 30 minutes from Québec City. Within the shelter of this huge maple forest is Treego Duchesnay (d'Arbre en Arbre), billed as an unforgettable tree-top adventure circuit, a forest full of fun. I was never much for tree climbing but Treego got me harnessed up and psyched for a shot at my Survivor audition. The challenging aerial obstacle course defies description with monkey bridges, nets and footbridges that string you along from tree to tree with progressive levels of difficulty. It's a nature boy's dream. While there are superb views throughout, if you're like me you won't be enjoying them as you hang by a cable and climb for your life high above the ground. This playground is fit for monkeys and you'll either go ape for it or be apeshit at the prospect. One thing is certain; you'll never forget it and you'll never be the same. Treego was a thrill of a lifetime.
As I taxied to the airport next day, I was physically exhausted yet mentally exhilarated. Strangely sad to leave the people and the place, I had bonded with Québec and had even got to practice my rusty French. Now I can't wait until Winter Carnaval.
The area code for Québec is 418.
Where to Stay
Auberge Duchesnay – a 4 star hotel, lodge and waterfront villas on the glorious grounds along the shores of Lake St. Joseph. An idyllic setting for romance or family get together. 140 Montee de L'Auberge, Sainte-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier, Québec; 877-511-5885; www.aubergeduchesnay.com
Hotel Pur – located in a trendy lower part of the city, this uber contemporary property boasts the largest indoor swimming pool in Québec City. 395, rue de la Couronne (418) 647-2611 www.hotelpur.com
Chateau Frontenac – it's been stated this is the most photographed hotel in the world. Many stop by for a meal or cocktail, but to stay overnight is truly a treat. 1, rue des Carrières (418) 692-3861 www.fairmont.com/frontenac
Where to Eat
Bistro-bar Le Quatre Temps – plan a Sunday morning hike with breakfast first here on the grounds of Station Duchesnay or a festive brunch afterward. A great prelude or finale to a stroll under the maples. Montee de L'Auberge, Sainte-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier, Québec; 418-875-2711 ext. 2238; www.aubergeduchesnay.com
Savini Resto-Bar - 680, Grande Allée Est, Québec QC G1R 2K5, 418-647-4747, www.savini.ca
Le Saint-Amour - 48, rue Sainte-Ursule, Québec QC G1R 4E2, 418-694-0667, www.saint-amour.com
Restaurant Toast! - 17, rue du Sault-au-Matelot, Québec QC G1K 3Y7, 418-692-1334, www.restauranttoast.com
Restaurant Café de la Paix - 44, rue des Jardins, Québec QC G1R 4L7, 418-692-1430, www.cafedelapaix.ca
Le Café du Clocher Penché - 203, rue Saint-Joseph Est, Québec QC G1K 3B, 418-640-0597, www.clocherpenche.ca
Laurie Raphaël Restaurant/ Atelier/ Boutique - 117, rue Dalhousie, Québec QC G1K 9C8, 418-692-4555, www.laurieraphael.com
Le Café du Monde - 84, rue Dalhousie, Québec QC G1K 4B2, 418-692-4455, www.lecafedumonde.com
Must See & Do
Chute Delaney – located deep within the Vallée Bras du Nord, this waterfall is a short hike through dense woodlands and is the light at the end of the tunnel. Don't miss it. Saint- Raymond, Vallée Bras du Nord
D'Arbre en Arbre Duchesnay – exercise your inner Tarzan at this jungle gym in the middle of Quebec's countryside. 70, de la Randonee, Pavilion Horizon, Station touristique Duchesnay, 418-875-4522; www.arbreduchesnay.com
Plains of Abraham - a place of history, leisure and culture, the Battlefields Park is a historical urban park that is worth spending time exploring as well as visiting the Discovery Pavilion. 835 Avenue Wilfrid-Laurier, Québec, QC, 418-649-6157, www.theplainsofabraham.ca
Funiculaire du Vieux-Québec – catch a unique panorama of the Old City while stepping back in time. 16, rue du Petit-Champlain, Québec, QC, 418-692-1132, www.funiculaire-quebec.com
A Mountain for all Seasons
I traveled to Mont Tremblant earlier this year in March to catch the last weekend of skiing before the official close of the season. Guess what? I hadn't been skiing for over 25 years! I was anxiously looking forward to getting back on the slopes in the Northeast where I'd skied most of my life. When I arrived in Tremblant, I realized that it had undergone a complete transformation in the past 25 years but still retained the character, charm and "French Canadian-ness" just the same.
The ski station itself is simply one of the best on the East coast. In fact, Ski magazine voted it number one for 2010. The mountain rises over 2,000 feet to the summit and the skiing is challenging enough for the advanced skier, but also offers something for the beginner. There is a state of the art snow making system called Avalanche that's comprised of over 1,000 guns and is one of the most powerful in North America. This accounts for the length of the Mont-Tremblant season - from late November until mid April.
The mountain is divided into four parts, a North and South side and the Edge on the North and Soleil on the South with 94 trails at all levels. Some of the offerings at the mountain include a ski school and a special kids ski school and my favorite, the "fast tracks." Fast Tracks allows anxious skiers to board the gondola at 7:45 am and be the first to hit the freshly groomed slopes. I got to experience Fast Tracks and since it was so long since I'd skied, the fresh snow was a welcome to get back in the groove. It was not long before I realized that skiing really is like riding a bike – you never forget. After a few easy runs, I was ready for the intermediate level! In the winter months Mont-Tremblant also offers numerous outdoor activities besides downhill skiing like snow shoeing and cross country, ice skating, sleigh rides, ziplining and ice climbing. Helicopter tours of the region are also a great thrill.
We had a morning of skiing then in the afternoon toured Mont-Tremblant village, or the Pedestrian Village as locals refer to it. Tremblant Village has almost 2,000 guest units, from 3 to 5 star accommodations. It also offers every style of lodging from luxury suites to fully equipped condos, mountain chalets or town houses overlooking the golf course. The choices range from romantic to family-centric. Tremblant Village also offers an array of restaurants and bars so it's a great place to spend an evening after the slopes. Amongst the choices is a Micro Brewery called Le Diable where you can down a flight of beers that are made right there. There is also a Swiss fondue restaurant called La Savoie which many say is like being in Switzerland.
During the day the village offers shopping with a mix of boutiques including Adrénaline, (a cool snowboard store), Joaillerie St-Onge (trendy jewelry), Boutique Salomon (well known ski brand) and L'Atelier du Pere Noel (Santa's studio.) with many of them open year round.
In the summer months there are three important festivals in the center of the village: Les Rythemes Tremblant (July to August), Festival International Du Blues De Tremblant (July) and La Fete de la Musique (September). There's also a New Year's celebration with a show on the slopes and in Place St.-Bernard, a traditional torch-light parade, music, dancing and a midnight fireworks to ring in the New Year.
And more is coming for the 2011-2012 season as Tremblant is investing over a half million dollars in the station to make it better for their guests. The improvements include new blowers and grooming machines plus state of the art rental equipment. At the beginning of the season, the pedestrian village of Tremblant will have a new Oakley shop on rue des Remparts (the main street). Famous for their cutting edge eyewear, the store will stock their activewear collection and accessories.
If you want a break from Le Village or perhaps want to get away from the hub, a great choice is Le Grand Lodge. It's a short drive from the mountain and offers a true mountain lodge experience with great amenities. Their Lakeview Suites have a panoramic view overlooking Lake Ouimet from your own balcony, a fireplace, 2 full baths and a fully equipped kitchen. Chez Borivage, their four star award winning restaurant has a cozy fireside bar and you might be invited to join the nightly folk singer in a song! You could call it a sophisticated kind of karaoke. Le Grand Lodge also has a full service ski shop on the premises for rentals and accessories should you forget something as well as an indoor pool and spa.
Although winter is fabulous at Mont-Tremblant, don't forget it also shines in the summer when it attracts more visitors. It offers swimming, sailing, windsurfing, wake boarding, canoeing, hiking, kayaking, bicycling, and mountain biking. They also offer hunting, fishing, walking tours, tennis and golf. Mont-Tremblant is practically a paradise for golfers offering them a full week without playing the same terrain. There is so much to choose and the scenery is breathtaking. You can take in all the beauty of nature which comes alive in the summer months.
Situated high on the mountain with a fantastic view is Le Casino de Quebec, where you can enjoy another kind of thrill: gambling. The Casino offers a great restaurant and lounge for those non-gamers and it's really worth checking out.
After all the activity you'll need to treat yourself to The Scandinave Spa. Located only five minutes from the Tremblant Village it's a must do after all the energy you've expended. This is a Nordic style spa and to enjoy the benefits of the hydrotherapy you first take some heat in the eucalyptus steam, then the wood burning Finnish sauna or hot baths to open up your pores. This will stimulate your blood and release toxins. Then you cool down by jumping into a Nordic waterfall or jumping into the chilly river flowing next to the spa. You conclude the circuit by relaxing on a terrace or by the fire to allow the cardiovascular system to regulate. You repeat the procedure until you are fully relaxed! Combine the baths with a massage such as their Thai-yoga massage and this is relaxation to the max.
While in the Tremblant area, one thrilling morning should be spent dog sledding. We tried Wolf expeditions and they offered a total experience. You choose your dog then walk him to join his team, and then attach him to the sled before you do the run. Six dogs pull each sled and the ride is exhilarating! We were able to have the experience on the last few days that Wolf was open in March. These dogs are in their element when they are out on the trail and we noticed with the Wolf team that no better care could be given to this sport breed and they handled them with kid gloves. The happy dogs were excited to get started as soon as they were in position. One person joins the guide at the sled's rear while the other gets to wrap in fur and enjoy the wind on his face. Take a guess where I was.
After a few days it was clear that the possibilities for amusement are endless here while in Mont-Tremblant, both in summer and winter. We had the winter experience and it was amazing. I got over my fear of skiing thanks to a great coach and instructor who worked at Le Grand Lodge. They always say if fear is in your way it prevents you from doing anything so let go of the fear and realize that you can do it. I listened to my own advice and had the time of my life adventuring in Mont-Tremblant, Québec.
The area code for Mont-Tremblant is 819.
Where to Stay
Le Grand Lodge: Located on the picturesque and scenic shore of Lake Ouimet, the hotel is an epicure's dream as their award winning restaurant serves top notch cuisine. Luxurious rooms, a pristine lake and beach, golf course and indoor pool and spa add up to "grand" experience. 2396 rue Labelle, Mont Tremblant QC, J8E 1T8, Canada. (800) 567-6763. www.legrandlodge.com
Crystal Inn: Serene and cozy B &B just seven minutes from Tremblant Village and Resort. 100 Joseph Thibault, Mont Tremblant, QC J8E 2G4, Canada. (819)681-7775. www.crystal-inn.com
Hotel Quintessence: Nestled on the shore of Lake Tremblant, Hotel Quintessence offers a wide variety of cultural entertainment, from dining to dancing all year round. 3004 Chemin de la Chapelle, Mont Tremblant, QC J8E 1E1, Canada. (819) 425-3400. www.hotelquintessence.com
Ermitage du Lac - Les Suites Tremblant – Guests lodging here have access to exclusive priveleges such as the First Tracks program, which allows skiing from 7:45 am before the official opening at 8:30 am. In addition, free rental skates are included for ice skating on the rink next to the chapel, where a bonfire and romantic music await. Also, guests enjoy free tubing every evening of the winter, from 6 to 9 pm. Tremblant Village, 1000 Chemin des Voyageurs, Mont-Tremblant, Québec, (888)-738-1777, www.tremblant.ca
Where to Eat and Drink
Chez Borivage: Wide variety of five-star choices presented as 4-course-meals. Le Grand Lodge, 2396 rue Labelle, Mont Tremblant QC, J8E 1T8, Canada. (800) 567-6763. www.legrandlodge.com/en/restaurant-and-bar/chez-borivage.html
La Savoie: Gourmet food, large variety of fondue choices, a welcoming atmosphere in the center of the Tremblant Village. 115 Chemin de Kandahar, Mont Tremblant, QC, Canada. (819) 681-4573. www.restaurantlasavoie.com
La Table Enchantee: a variety of traditional and contemporary dishes are served in a true Québecois ambience 1842, route 117 Mont-Tremblant, (819) 425-7113. No Website.
Smoke's Poutinerie Tremblant: An exclusive menu of poutine, allowing the world discover the Québecois Classic. Place des Voyageur, (819) 681-4746, www.smokespoutinerie.com
Creperie Catherine: Family friendly restaurant where fresh crepes are served right before your eyes. 113 Kandahar, Mont Tremblant, QC J8E 1A1, Canada. (819) 681-4888. www.creperiecatherine.ca
La Diable Microbrasserie: Apres-ski, enjoy a "devil-icious" adventure at one of Mont Tremblant's most vivacious pubs. 117 Kandahar, Mont Tremblant, QC J0T 1Z0, Canada. (819) 681-4546 www.microladiable.com
Disco P'tit Caribou: Shake it up tonight and ski to you drop next day. Voted "Best Bar in Eastern Canada" by Ski Canada Magazine. 125 Chemin de Kandahar, Mont Tremblant, QC J8E 1E2, Canada. (819) 681-4500. www.ptitcaribou.com
What to Do
La Station de Tremblant: You name it! They've got it all at the #1 ski resort in eastern North America. 1000 Chemin des Voyageurs, Mont Tremblant, QC J8E 1T1, Canada. 1 888 738-1777. www.tremblant.ca
Expedition Wolf DogSledding: Snow, a sled and dogs—what more could a kid like you want? Route 117 South, Riviére-Rouge, QC J0T 1T0, Canada. (819) 275-1601. www.expeditionwolf.com
Le Scandinave Spa – commune with nature while you channel a serene state of calm and balanced energy. For ultimate relaxation, combine the Scandinavian bath experience with a hot-stone massage. 4280, Montee Ryan, Mont-Tremblant, J8E 1S4, Canada. (819) -425-5597. www.scandinave.com
Héli-Tremblant – nothing beats a helicopter tour over a frozen landscape. These guys are real pros. 72,Route 117, Mont-Tremblant, Québec, J8E 2X1, (819)-425-5662, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
Charming Charlevoix
The Charlevoix region in the province of Québec (Canada) is a 6,000 square kilometer protected UNESCO World Bisophere Reserve, rich in forests, streams, and wildlife. It's also flanked on the north shore by the mighty St. Lawrence River, portions of which are designated as a marine conservation area, making it one of the best places in North America for whale watching.
Fresh and salt water mix where the Saguenay and St. Lawrence Rivers meet, making it a perfect playground for several different species of migratory whales, including belugas, minkes, humpbacks, fin whale, and the mighty blue whale. The opportune time of year for catching glimpses is May to October, and there are many local operators providing everything from boat cruises and zodiacs, to kayaking and even snorkeling for those so inclined. The area also has seals, sea birds, caribou, wolves, and many other animals unique to this region.
Pioneers of Tourism
In 1864, Hotel Tadoussac opened its doors, marking the beginning of over a century of providing memorable vacation experiences. Today its whitewashed walls, red roof, and maritime colors still make it a must for visitors to the area, and the perfect base for whale watching excursions. The nearby Tadoussac Golf Club, founded in 1902, is one of the oldest golf courses in Québec and is renowned for its beautiful scenery with views overlooking the St. Lawrence. The property was also the location for the filming of the quirky Hotel New Hampshire movie.
Tourists have been flocking to Charlevoix for centuries, and in fact it is noted as being the first destination to have welcomed international overnight guests in Canada. The community of La Malbaie was known as the first resort area the country, and early in the 20th century a 250-room resort hotel was built in Pointe-au-Pic. Today Charlevoix still attracts numerous visitors year round who seek to experience all that is unique to the area, such as agrotourism, the arts, culture, outdoor adventure and scenic driving and cycling. The region also offers a host of unique attractions deep in the very heart of the Canadian Shield, the oldest landform on earth formed by a meteorite 350 million years ago.
Regional Culture and Cuisine
Music and dance are everywhere in Charlevoix, more particularly in the Saint-Irenee region at the historical property known as "Domaine Forget". Charlevoix also has several museums referencing the natural and economic history of the region, the customs of the local population and maritime history. A visit to the Pointe-Noire interpretation and observation center at the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is the perfect way to learn more about sea mammals and ocean currents.
The artistic village of Baie Saint-Paul is home to many painters, poets, writers, and musicians all inspired by the natural beauty. A driving route called Painter's Trail points out galleries and studios throughout the region. While in town be sure to check out Le Saint Pub for local fare and a sampler of the local brews. Baie-Saint-Paul was also a favorite of Canada's famous Group of Seven painters and the birthplace of the celebrated Cirque du Soleil.
Isle aux Coudres is a tiny island in the St. Lawrence River known for its stone windmills, historic buildings and coastline view best experienced by bicycle along the 26 km road that circles the island. It's only a short 20 minute ferry ride from mainland Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, and definitely worth a visit. Be sure to stop at one of the apple picking farms and taste the local apple ciders.
The Saguenay River Valley was carved out by glaciers during the last ice age and created the Saguenay Fjord, which is the only such natural formation on the east coast of North America. It's now a location for rock climbing enthusiasts that rivals the Rockies, some say. Le Genévrier is an outdoor family center that boasts a lighted ice ring and skating rink, inner-tube slides and 15 km of cross-country trails with an additional 5 km for snowshoeing.
The Charlevoix Flavor Trail is a culinary circuit that includes several specialty producers offering product samplings, as well as various accommodations and dining options where local products are available. Specialties includes foie gras, poultry, emu, lamb, and of course the world renowned selection of Québec cheeses. Farmers, chefs, and restaurant owners all work together to bring you the most extensive network of local fare. Many farms offer their products to sample and purchase on site and the chefs combine these local products to create delicacies that are only available in the area's restaurants.
Luxurious Lodging
For those seeking the most luxurious experience, the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu is nestled majestically between the sea and the mountains and is a vision of historical splendor. The resort offers nearby downhill and cross-country skiing, a legendary casino, spa, and top-notch accommodation. The summer season is a hot spot for golf enthusiasts seeking to hone their skills on a meticulously designed course by British architect Herbert Strong that was christened back in 1925 by U.S. President William H. Taft.
The original hotel was built in 1899 and featured 250 luxurious rooms atop the cliff of Pointe-au-Pic, overlooking the majestic St. Lawrence River in the heart of Charlevoix. Fire leveled it in 1928 but Canadian architect John Archibald redesigned the current property in the style of a French castle and it reopened the following year. Fairmont officially took over operations in 1999 and continued the grandeur that today makes it a world class luxury resort in Quebec.
Massive Le Massif
The famous Le Massif de Charlevoix is a mountain and ski resort that boasts the highest vertical drop east of the Canadian Rockies. It's a Canadian tourism and recreation mecca comprised of three distinct areas, the Mountain, the Train and the Farm. The area around Le Massif is currently undergoing a multi-million dollar redevelopment, with portions already completed and operational this fall. When complete it will offer a full range of experiences in tourism by way of a touring train and a range of accommodation options at the Mountain, along with a 150-room hotel complex at the Farm in Baie-Saint-Paul.
Daniel Gauthier, one of the Cirque visionaries and Chairman of the Board of Groupe Le Massif, long dreamed of reviving a touristic rail route that ran between Quebec City and La Malbaie. In April 2009, Groupe Le Massif acquired Chemin de Fer de Charlevoix, the section of railroad track between Québec City and Clermont. A major line rehabilitation project was undertaken representing a 20 million dollar investment and this past September a 1950's era touring train linking the 140 km stretch between Quebec City and La Malbaie re-opened again. There was a trial run of roundtrip excursions which just ended on October 23 with daily departures and overnight packages beginning again in February. For same day return passengers, a hearty breakfast is served on the morning leg and after an exciting day out on the trails, cocktails are paired with local delicacies on the return. The next step is to incorporate a daily rail shuttle connecting the town of Baie-Saint-Paul with the Mountain at Petite-Rivière-Saint-François and this is slated to begin early next year which should make it a pleasure to traverse the 20 km between the two.
Starting late December at the Mountain, a 7.5 km sled run specially designed for rodeling on a natural snow base will begin operations. Rodeling is a form of tobogganing that uses a long narrow sled without runners that curves upward in front. There will be two options offered - the classic 90 minutes which includes the grooming machine shuttle to the rodeling departure point on Mont à Liguori or a 2½ hour authentic plan featuring a guided snowshoe tour to the trailhead that leads down to the Massif Express boarding area. Le Massif offers a significant trail network for skiers and snowboarders as well as a 10 km luge trail that transforms into a downhill bike trail in summer. Guests can get around the resort area by snowshoe, dogsled or horse-drawn sleigh. When it's time to relax, the onsite spa offers a menu of original treatments, from Nordic to Scandinavian, therapeutic to relaxation.
Nestled on farmland near the heart of downtown Baie-Saint-Paul, the Farm is designed to espouse the site's agricultural identity and presents itself as a crossroads of this extraordinary melting pot of culture and gastronomy. A total of 56 million dollars will be invested towards the development of a 150-room hotel complex that fans out into five pavilions, and includes a multifunctional venue, a spa, a train station, a public square and a local farmers market. The project will be completed in stages, with the hotel scheduled to officially open by December 2011, just in time for the holidays and outdoor winter adventure season. The entire project is expected to be completed by 2014.
There are approximately 30,000 people that call this fabulous region home, and Highway 138 out of Québec City is a natural starting point for visitors planning to make the 90-minute trek east. This most definitely is a four season destination and worth a visit anytime of the year. Although there are numerous dining and accommodation options available, it's still best to book in advance. Visit Charlevoix and have a whale of a good time!
Winter Events
The Great Crossing Casino de Charlevoix
January 27 to 29, 2012 - Isle-aux-Coudres
Canoe race on the St. Lawrence River
Telephone: 418 438-2568
Website: www.grandetraversee.com
Annual Snowmobile Gathering
January 27 & 28, 2012 - La Malbaie
Animation and various activities for snowmobile lovers
Telephone: 418-665-5300
Website: www.casino-de-charlevoix.com
A Tribute to Winter
February 25, 2012 - La Malbaie
Musical fireworks display presented by the Casino de Charlevoix
Website: www.casino-de-charlevoix.com
Dog Racing Classical Isle-aux-Coudres
February 24 to 26, 2012 - L'Isle-aux-Coudres
Competition by dogsled teams from all over North America
Toll-free: 1-866-438-2930
Website: www.charlevoix.qc.ca/isle-aux-coudres
Baie-Saint-Paul Holiday Fair
November 25 to 27 and December 2 to 4, 2012 – Baie-Saint-Paul
Holiday market with local arts and crafts
Telephone: 418-435-3673
Website: www.marchedenoelbsp.com
Where to Sleep
Hotel Tadoussac – a maritime themed two-level property with onsite dining, walking trails, and nearby whale watching excursions. 165 rue Bord de l'Eau, Tadoussac, (800) 561-0718 www.hoteltadoussac.com
Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu – upscale historic property with breathtaking views of the St. Lawrence River, nearby snowshoe trails, skiing, and casino. 181 rue Richelieu, La Malbaie; (866) 540-4464 www.fairmont.com/richelieu
Au Jardin d'Ozanne – four rooms each with private baths and full breakfast. Offering a pleasant combination of nature, relaxation, and gastronomy only a couple minutes walk from the center of town. 2 Du Richelieu, Baie-Saint-Paul 1 (888) 909-4060
Where to Eat
Le Saint Pub – great pub atmosphere in the center of town offering good size portions and a selection of hand-crafted beers. 2 rue Racine, Baie-Saint-Paul, (418) 240-2332 www.saint-pub.com
Le William – fresh seafood caught daily and combined with local produce and cheeses. 165 rue Bord de l'Eau, Tadoussac, (418) 235-4421 www.hoteltadoussac.com
Le Saint-Laurent - offers a "brasserie" menu where you can create your own four-course meal. 181 rue Richelieu, La Malbaie, (866) 540-4464 www.fairmont.com/richelieu
What to See & Do
Whale Watching – cruise aboard a full equipped boat or get a closer look from a zodiac. 168 rue des Pionniers, Tadoussac, (418) 235-2222 www.croisieresaml.com
Skiing – Le Massif mountain range has three separate peaks offering a vertical drop of more than 2,500 ft from its summit, and 48 trails to choose from that are accessible from the top and base. Season is typically early December to mid April. Petite-Rivière-Saint François, 877-536-2774 www.lemassif.com
Ice Fishing –offered exclusively to guests of the Jean-Pressé cabin at Lac Étang Malbaie within Parc National des Grands-Jardins. The short snowshoeing trek is well worth it for the abundance of trout. 25 Boul. Notre-Dame, Clermont, (800)-665-6527 www.sepaq.com/pq/grj
More Information
www.tourisme-charlevoix.com
www.bonjourquebec.com
www.hoteltadoussac.com
www.fairmont.com
www.genevrier.com
www.lemassif.com
www.microbrasserie.com
