USA
A Tale of Two Sides
It was the land of fire, it was the land of water, it was the age of new birth, it was the age of decay, it was the season of sunshine, it was the season of rain, it was a place of ease, it was a place of unrest, we had flat fields before us, we had soaring volcanoes before us, the island struck us dumb, and the island put words in our mouths – in short, the island of Hawaii was a land of diversity, of beautiful contradictions that must be seen to be believed.
Ok, so the Big Island of Hawaii has little to do with Dickens’ vision of the French Revolution, but the island’s fantastical contradictions do seem to border on fiction. Most people go to the Hawaiian Islands for lush vegetation, unceasing sunshine, and white sandy beaches. You can find all those great things on the Big Island, but it’s about so much more. The youngest of the islands is unique, and it defies being pigeonholed, even by its own siblings.
From the moment I saw the island as I soared into Kona Airport, I realized this was a unique place. Crusty, jagged volcanic flows cover the surrounding area like black shag carpet, and huge volcanoes stretch toward the clouds. I also noticed how big it really is—bigger than all of the other Hawaiian Islands combined—so be sure to spend at least a week there because there is a lot of ground to cover. Even now, the island is still growing as Lo’ihi Volcano continues to build itself up underwater until eventually it emerges as a chunk of fresh land on the southern coast.
My home base for this trip was the central hub of the dry side of the island called Kailua-Kona (“-Kona” is added on to distinguish this Kailua from other Kailuas in the islands), a beachside town near the Kona airport. Native Hawaiians really only use two directional words, “mauka” (meaning “inland”) and “makai” (meaning “toward the sea”), but for us mainlanders, Kailua is on the western coast of the island. It’s a classic beach town with great seafood, beautiful beaches, plenty of sunshine, and a rich assortment of shopping. Kailua’s beaches have some of the best snorkeling sites in the state with opportunities to see Green Sea Turtles, Spinner Dolphins, Manta Rays and the occasional White Tip Reef Shark.
Kailua also has a quaint downtown filled with restaurants and shops where you can rent snorkeling gear, grab a meal, drink the delicious local beer, or buy some of their famous Donkey Balls (chocolate balls with macadamia nuts in the middle). The downtown also doubles as the historic centerpiece of the area, featuring the Moku’aikaua Church (the oldest Christian church in all of Hawaii), the Hulihe’e Palace (the old Hawaiian royal family’s vacation home, which is now a museum) and the Kona Inn (an old inn converted into a fine dining establishment). There’s even a restored ancient Hawaiian temple called the Ahu-ena Heiau on the point jutting out into Kailua Bay.
The greatest part about the dry side of the island is how different it is from the rest of the island and the Hawaiian Islands in general. Along the roads, pale, otherworldly grass sways in the wind and small volcanic cones rise up from the flat plains. The roads cut through lava flows that look like strange, black moonscapes, jagged and tortured looking, but with grass and shrubs springing up here and there. And always in sight against the horizon are the shapely and majestic volcanoes Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai.
Throw in the west side’s numerous historical sites like the Captain Cook monument, the “Place of Refuge” National Historical Park, and the Kona Historical Society, and you have the makings of a fantastic vacation. But to focus solely on Kailua and its surroundings is to miss the point because Kailua is an excellent launching point from which to tour the rest of the island’s incredible diversity.
To the north is the small town of Waimea, ensconced in the rolling foothills at the base of the emerald green Kohala Mountains. The mountains, presided over by the oldest of the volcanoes, are not as massively grand as nearby Mauna Kea but they are just as beautiful but in a different way. Their summits stand tall over Waimea, the transitional area between the west’s dry plains and lava flows and the east’s lush rainforest. To the south the mountains give way to the flat prairie that was cultivated into pastures in the early 1800’s for the expansion of Hawaii’s cattle industry. Visitors should not miss the Anna Ranch Heritage Center, a picturesque collection of ranches preserved on the outskirts of town.
Leaving Waimea, you enter an entirely different world. If you’ve been to Kauai, the northeastern coast of the Big Island, especially the Hamakua Coast, will probably seem familiar. In stark contrast to the dry side of the island, the Hamakua Coast all the way down to Hilo is as wet as it gets. The stunning cliffs and canyons lining the coast are covered with verdant vegetation and hidden waterfalls. Two gems of the drive along the coast are the Akaka Falls and Laupahoehoe Point (the site of a beautiful memorial for the people lost there in the 1946 hurricane). But perhaps most spectacular of all is the Waipi’o Valley—just at the southern edge of the Kohala Mountains—a beautiful rift of agricultural land opening out onto the ocean.
If Kailua is the hub of the dry side of the island, Hilo is the focal point of the rainy side. Hilo is much larger than Kailua, so there are lots of fun things to do, including a tropical rainforest zoo, the Wailoa River State Park, a farmer’s market, and some great museums. But the reason I think Kailua is the more ideal home base for a trip to the Big Island is because it rains almost every day in Hilo. That said, Hilo is a beautiful city with a little more bustle than Kailua, so it’s definitely worth seeing.
Of course, the final aspect of the Big Island, and perhaps the most famous one, is Volcanoes National Park in the southeast. The park incorporates the summit of Mauna Loa, a vast swath of wilderness filled with fabulous hiking trails and Kilauea Caldera, the main attraction. One of the most active volcanoes in the world, Kilauea had been relatively quiet since last February but erupted while I was there. This was not a full-scale eruption with gushing lava destroying nearby cities, although the Big Island has had a few of those. We didn’t even get to see any fresh lava flows. But we were able to see the glow of the lava in the Halema’uma’u Crater at night, one of the most riveting experiences of my life. Even standing amid the hardened lava of ages past, I could still feel how alive the island is.
Sadly, humans will never see Lo’ihi rise from the ocean and join the other five volcanoes of which the Big Island is made. The geological clock won’t permit it. But that doesn’t mean that we can’t appreciate the Big Island’s radical geologic changes and awe-inspiring diversity. Even if we can only see the world changing from a relatively limited perspective, there are places and times that force our eyes to open wider and our minds to expand. We can look in awe at a shield volcano rising over 13,000 feet above sea level and begin to understand the tremendous power to create and destroy that the planet possesses. And we can walk barefoot on a black sand beach and see that even lava will one day break down and form something new while all the while a world continues to turn.
The area code for the Big Island is 808.
Where to Stay:
Kona Coast Resort – Beautiful resort with Mediterranean-style villas on the Kona coast, just south of downtown Kailua-Kona. Each rental comes with a fully equipped kitchen, washer and dryer, cable TV, and complementary Wi-Fi. The resort also has outdoor grills, swimming pools, a basketball hoop, shuffleboard courts, tennis courts, a sand volleyball court, and a fitness center. Perfectly positioned to tour the Kona side of the island. (808) 324-1721 www.shellhospitality.com/hotels/kona_coast_resort/
Sheraton Keauhou Bay Restort & Spa- This resort has an ancient lava flow cascading into the waters along the Kona coast of Hawaii’s Big Island. Be sure to get a rejuvenating spa treatment and attend their fun luau! 78-128 Ehukai Street. Kailua-Kona. (808)930-4900. www.sheratonkeauhou.com
Hilton Waikoloa Village- This property is nestled within 62 oceanfront acres offering breathtaking tropical gardens, tranquil waterways and abundant wildlife. This resort is a paradise all its own, big enough to need a tram or boat to reach its farthest corners. 69-425 Waikoloa Beach Dr Waikoloa. (800) 446-8667. www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com
Where to Eat:
Kona Brew Co. – Microbrewery and restaurant with excellent beers brewed on the premises, ranging from light ales to stouts. A few are available in select markets outside Hawaii, but most of these beers cannot be had outside of the brewpub, so drink up. Kona Brew Co. is about more than beer, though, their pizzas are also out of this world. They infuse their sauces with some of their flavorful beers and have created appetizers to go with a bounty of sandwiches and salads. But if you don’t get one of their signature pizzas, you are making a huge mistake. www.konabrewingco.com
Village Burger – Small burger joint sequestered in the small ranching town of Waimea. The owner and head chef, Edwin Goto, uses all local and sustainable products for his burgers, including the grass-fed and hormone-free beef from nearby ranches. Big, juicy burgers with fantastic toppings like fresh avocado slices, local goat cheese, broken egg, or Applewood smoked bacon. The fries are amazing too, served with sweet chile, Wasabi mayo and sun dried tomato mayo for dipping, or you can get them crusted in delicious “parmesean goop.” Make sure you try one of the thick and rich Epic shakes made with the favorite local ice cream with a surprise at the bottom. www.villageburgerwaimea.com
Tex Drive-In – Best place I found for the classic Hawaiian treat, malasadas. Originally created by Portuguese immigrants, these hot, fluffy pastries are like doughnuts but better. Every place does them a little differently, but Tex’s are bigger and more flavorful than any others. Get one filled with apple, apricot, Bavarian creme, cherry, chocolate crème, guava, lemon, mango, pineapple, raspberry or strawberry. But get there early because they sell out by midday. (808) 775-0598 www.facebook.com/pages/Tex-Drive-In-Big-Island-Hawaii/106337749394338?sk=info
U-Top-It – tucked away in downtown Kailua-Kona, this restaurant specializes in the Hawaiian Taro PanCrepe. A variation on the traditional crepe, this is a thin pancake with crispy edges made with taro, a Hawaiian staple. They’ve got 57 toppings including fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses, and sauces that allow you to go either savory or sweet. They also serve breakfast all day in addition to the signature crepes. (808) 329-0092 www.utopitkona.com
What to See:
Volcanoes National Park – a massive park with countless hiking trails for visitors to explore. Centered on the Kilauea Caldera, there are plenty of great lookout points that are accessible by car or foot. Definitely check out the Thurston Lava Tube, which is a short hike through an underground lava tube. The centerpiece is the still active Halema’uma’u Crater, so the glow of lava can be seen at night. When the gas emissions aren’t dangerous, visitors can even hike close to the crater.
Waipi’o Valley – stunning view of the valley, just a short drive north of Honokaa, between Waimea and Hilo on the Hamakua Coast. The fertile, green agricultural land is dotted with fields but the stark cliff sides dropping straight into the ocean is the real draw. For the adventurous, there are several hiking trails across the valley into the Kohala Natural Preserve, but they are strenuous.
Kona Historical Society – a turn off just south of Kailua-Kona that features both the Greenwell Farms Coffee Store and Museum and a Portuguese wood-fired stone oven. Greenwell Farms Coffee is a rich local blend with lots of flavors but the real treat is the “pao doce,” a Portuguese sweet bread that volunteers bake in the stone forno once a week.
Pu’uhonua o Honaunau “Place of Refuge” National Park – a seaside park preserving aspects of traditional Hawaiian life. Features an impressive stone wall that separates the old royal grounds from the pu’uhonua, a “place of refuge,” where dishonored citizens or criminals could find absolution and protection. The grounds also include a restored heiau, an ancient Hawaiian temple, guarded by ki’i, the fierce-faced totem poles representing local gods.
Waimea – a quaint ranching town at the base of the Kohala Mountains in the north of the island. Great restaurants and beautiful views of the mountains and the volcano, Mauna Kea. The Anna Ranch Heritage Center on the outskirts of town is a collection of old, white ranch buildings that hosts a weekly farmer’s market.
In Colorado, people have been skiing for over 150 years, beginning with the miners who figured out it was the best way to get around in a place where snow covered the ground most of the year. In fact, until the railroads arrived, even the mail was delivered on skis. It’s no surprise that Colorado’s Rocky Mountains are a skier’s (and boarder’s) dream. Why? The mountains get a lot of snow and the high altitude combined with dry air create great conditions. Add almost 300 sunny days a year and you have ski Nirvana.
The Rockies are perfect for both day-skiing and lengthier getaways. Lodging choices run the gamut from casual to all out luxury with state of the art facilities and top notch service. If you want space and enjoy cooking in, consider renting a condo, home or condotel (a hybrid of condo benefits and hotel service). Whether you come for one day or a few, you’ll find great skiing.
Here are five world class Colorado ski resorts to consider for a winter getaway, each with its own distinct character.
Aspen
Why go: If you’re looking for great skiing and want to hang with A-list folks, Aspen is for you. It’s the only ski town in the U.S. where you’ll find designer boutiques like Gucci and Louis Vuitton ensconced in pristinely restored Victorian buildings. Add posh hotels and sophisticated restaurants and you have a luxurious ski vacation. Plus, between Aspen and neighboring Snowmass there are four mountains to ski.
Must do: There’s lots of cultural resources on offer with a winter schedule featuring classical ballet, theater and concerts spanning music genres from classical to contemporary.
You can also hire a guide and tour some of the shrines on Aspen’s four mountains. These pay homage to iconic figures such as Marilyn Monroe, Snoopy, the Beatles, Liberace, Hunter S. Thompson and scores more. Shrines are as small as a plaque, photo or license plate and as large as a cabin with lots in between. Some are serious and some, high kitsch.
If you have a little cash to burn, stroll the restored downtown and shop till you drop.
Where to Stay: The Little Nell, is the only ski-in, ski-out hotel and offers five star and five diamond luxury. Treat yourself to a room with a panoramic mountain view. Après-ski, visit their spa. Want to get away from it all? The Bauhaus-inspired Aspen Meadows Resort, home to the prestigious think tank, The Aspen Institute, is set on 40 peaceful acres close to town.
If a house or condo appeals to you, Frias Properties of Aspen specializes in luxury rentals.
Where to dine: Montagna at The Little Nell, for one of Aspen’s premier dining experiences, specializing in fresh, local Colorado foods prepared with global flair.
CP Burger, Aspen’s answer to fast food, is a hot spot with juicy homemade Colorado-beef burgers, hot dogs and interesting salads. If you’re over 21, try the spiked shakes. Order at the counter and they’ll deliver your food to the table.
Poppycock’s Café, with a retro diner feel, serves breakfast all day.
Beaver Creek
Why Go: This resort community consists of hotels (owned and managed by an assortment of companies), condos and homes in a self-contained world with shops, restaurants and more. Beaver Creek’s motto is “Not Exactly Roughing It.” From the moment you pass the gatehouse into this luxurious enclave, you know that pampering awaits. Perfect for a romantic getaway, a wedding or just about anything else you can think of, the resort also prides itself on being family-friendly.
Must Do: Lace up your skates and take a few turns around the ice rink in the middle of town or try snow tubing on Haymaker Tubing Hill. Rent snowshoes and get out on the trails.
Don’t miss the resort’s popular “Cookie Time” daily at 3pm. Chefs walk around with trays of free, fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies creating a mid-afternoon feeding frenzy.
Where to Stay: The Osprey, if you want the ultimate in ski-in, ski-out convenience and chic, contemporary surroundings. This boutique property has the distinction of being the closest hotel to a ski lift in North America with a convenient location, directly across from the Resort Village and easy access to lifts, shops and restaurants. Their comfortable rooms feature granite baths, some with soaking tubs and double sinks.
If you prefer a rental property, East-West Resorts specializes in “premier luxury lodging.” Beaver Creek Resorts offers one-stop booking for all types of lodging.
Where to Dine: Toscanini’s offers contemporary northern Italian cuisine in a stylish setting with a great view of the ice rink in winter. Parents can have a relaxing meal while the kids skate.
Beano’s Cabin is truly a destination restaurant. The only way to get to the mountainside log cabin is in a sleigh pulled by a snowcat. Snuggle under blankets and enjoy the 20-minute ride through the glistening woods. Look up; the sky is magical. The restaurant’s casual ambience and sophisticated price-fixed, five course dinner has made it a favorite.
Breckenridge
Why Go: Like Aspen, another old mining town, Breckenridge has a sense of history and oozes charm. Breck, as it’s affectionately called, is a short two hours from Denver so obviously great for day skiers.
Must Do: dog sledding. Good Times Adventures will even let you drive the sled. Mush!
Stroll the charming town, explore the exquisite shops and galleries, then warm up with a cup of hot chocolate.
Where to Stay: Breckenridge, like many of the area’s resorts, has few hotels. Most accommodations here are condos, condotels or home rentals.
If you want complete ski-in, ski-out convenience in a luxury setting, One Ski Hill Place at bottom of Peak 8 is a perfect choice. They offer a range of condominium accommodations from studios to four-bedrooms with luxury hotel amenities.
Summit Mountain Rentals is an excellent source for rental accommodations with a knowledgeable and friendly staff that assists clients throughout their stay to ensure a perfect Breck experience.
Where to Dine: For breakfast, try the popular Blue Moose or the Columbine Café. Empire Burger, with house ground Harris Ranch beef, is a local favorite. If you’re eating on the go, grab a bit of France at Crepes a la Carte.
Giampietro Pasta and Pizza, a small, bustling place, is great for lunch or dinner. Their bruschetta is the deal of the day, enough for a whole meal. Check the specials board to see what’s inspiring coming from the kitchen that day.
The sleek, contemporary dining room at Relish offers diners superb mountain views. Chef/owner Matt Fackler’s “Colorado inspired cuisine” follows an ABC (Always Buy Colorado) philosophy using fresh, organic ingredients whenever possible. If you’re looking for something more casual, Twist, their new restaurant, offers new takes on traditional comfort foods.
Telluride
Why Go: If Breckenridge and Beaver Creek had a baby, it would be Telluride. This old mining town is surrounded by mountains on three sides. The Victorian town, painted ladies all restored, has a sense of history. The contemporary Mountain Village, at the top of the Gondola, offers all the amenities of a contemporary world class ski resort.
Must Do: ride the gondola, even if you’re not a skier, as the views are superb. Stroll around the restored town with a camera, or better yet, take a guided historic walking tour. Take the gondola up for a drink and an appetizer at Allred’s. Located part way up the mountain, at St. Sophia gondola station, the views are unforgettable.
Where to Stay:
Hotel Telluride, at the western end of town, offers Colorado mountain lodge ambience and comfortable, cozy rooms. Service at the boutique property is friendly and attentive and if you aren’t happy with your pillow, consult their Pillow Menu for the one that’s right for you.
Hotel Madeline Telluride, located at the base of the slope in Mountain Village, offers luxury coupled with ski-in, ski-out convenience. The well-appointed rooms feature Pratesi Linens and bathrooms with walk-in showers and soaking tubs. To soothe away those après ski aches or just because, there’s a full service spa on site.
The Telluride Tourism Board is a great resource for one stop accommodation information. They can book hotel stays and condo and home rentals.
Where to Dine: 221 South Oak, a modern bistro, serves contemporary American cuisine infused with French and Creole influences, in a restored historic home steps from the gondola.
Siam offers authentic Thai cuisine from centuries old family recipes with some contemporary additions. This contemporary eatery with an ethnic flair uses fresh, local and organic ingredients when possible.
Vail
Why Go: Vail is the realization of two men with a vision. Pete Seibert and Colorado native Earl Eaton saw the potential in this undeveloped valley. Vail, opened with four houses in 1962 and is now a world-class ski resort. Located three hours from Denver, it’s both a day and getaway destination.
Must Do: Visit bōl, the chic bowling alley in the new Shops at Solaris at the exclusive new Solaris Residences. Concentrate on your spares and strikes while nibbling from an interesting menu of small plates and drinking good wine. Or try dinner and a movie at the Cine Bistro, also in the Solaris Building.
Enjoy the great outdoors on a dogsled or sleigh ride or go up, up and away in a beautiful balloon.
Where to stay: the AAA Four Diamond, Arrabelle, at Vail Square, offers luxury in the heart of town. Designed to invoke a grand hotel in an alpine village, expect fantastic service and attention to detail. For pampering after a day on the slopes, relax in your spacious soaking tub (the bathrooms have heated floors) or have a treatment at the on-site spa.
Vail Cascade Resort & Spa, located just steps from a lift with ski-in, ski-out convenience, offers impeccable service and warm surroundings. The library, opposite the front-desk, was furnished by one of their frequent guests. He wanted to feel at home and you will, too. Request a room overlooking Gore Creek and the mountain.
Triumph Mountain Properties has an inventory of luxury condos and home rentals. The icing on the cake: excellent customer service from caring staff.
Where to Dine: Vail has two hot newcomers. Nobu Matsuhisa, perhaps the most famous sushi chef in the world, opened Matsuhisa, an offspring of his Nobu, in the new Solaris Building, an enclave of upscale shops and restaurants. The contemporary mountain décor features lots of stone and wood, soaring ceilings and glass walls. Along with sushi the menu’s focus is small plates that fuse Japanese foods and flavors with other influences as well as Omakase, a tasting menu, translated as "creations from the chef’s heart." These are “The most complete way to experience the essence of Nobu Matsuhisa’s dishes." Reservations are accepted one month in advance and they book up early in season, so plan ahead.
Another popular newbie is Elway’s at The Lodge at Vail. The legendary Denver Bronco’s quarterback has lent his name to this small steakhouse chain also with two spots in Denver. They specialize in aged prime beef and the a la carte menu is committed to a fresh, seasonal approach.
At Moe’s Original BBQ, started by some “Bama boys” in Vail, they’re serving up Alabama-style pork, ribs and chicken and more. Ever had north Alabama style white BBQ sauce? It’s great with chicken or turkey. Order the side of the day, rotating southern favorites like collards, mac and cheese and sweet potato casserole.
Getting there: The best way to get to Colorado’s ski areas is through Denver which most major airlines service. From there, you can take a connecting flight, rent a car, grab a shuttle or hire a car. Colorado Mountain Express supplies shuttles to all the ski areas mentioned, except Telluride, and in season (December 15th until around April 1st), there are direct flights into some mountain airports. The towns all have good public transportation and a car isn’t necessary if you’re staying in town. There’s shuttle service from many hotels.
Aspen: United, American and Frontier (from Denver only) serve the Aspen/Pitkin County Airport (ASE).
Beaver Creek/Vail: Eagle Airport (EGE) is served by American, Continental, Delta and United, through direct flights or connections.
Breckenridge: Fly to Denver (DIA) and then either rent or hire a car or take a shuttle.
Telluride: a number of airlines fly to Montrose, then it’s a 90 minute drive to Telluride by car or Telluride Express van. You can also fly into the small Telluride Regional Airport (TEX). At 9,070 feet above sea level, it’s the highest commercial airport in the U.S.
Whether you choose one of these five resorts or one of the other 21 Colorado ski resorts, a fabulous Rocky Mountain getaway is guaranteed.
Where to Stay:
Aspen
The Little Nell - 675 East Durant Avenue, (970) 920-4600 , http://www.thelittlenell.com
Aspen Meadows Resort - 845 Meadows Road, (800) 452-4240, http://www.dolce-aspen-hotel.com
Frias Properties of Aspen - 730 E Durant Avenue, (970) 920-2000, http://www.friasproperties.com
Beaver Creek
The Osprey - a Rock resort, 10 Elk Track Lane, (970) 754-7400, http://ospreyatbeavercreek.rockresorts.com
East-West Resorts - 15 Highlands Lane, Avon, Co. 81620, (970) 949-5071, http://www.eastwestbeavercreek.com
Beaver Creek Resorts - 450 E Lionshead Circle, Vail, Co., (970) 754-4636, http://www.beavercreek.com/planyourtrip/lodging-in-and-around-beaver-creek.aspx
Breckenridge
One Ski Hill Place - 1521 Ski Hill Road, (970) 547-8800, http://www.oneskihillplace.com
Summit Mountain Rentals - 111 Ski Hill Road, (970) 453-7370, http://summitrentals.com
Telluride
The Hotel Telluride - 199 North Cornet Street, 970-369-1188, http://www.thehoteltelluride.com
Hotel Madeline Telluride - 568 Mountain Village Boulevard, (970) 369-0880
http://www.hotelmadelinetelluride.com
*The Telluride Tourism Board/ Telluride Central Reservations
( 888)605-2578, http://www.visittelluride.com/places-to-stay
Vail
Arrabelle, at Vail Square - 675 Lionshead Place, (970) 754-7777, http://arrabelle.rockresorts.com
Vail Cascade Resort & Spa - 1300 Westhaven Drive, (970) 476-7111, http://www.vailcascade.com
Triumph Mountain Properties - 40833 Hwy 6, Avon, Co., 81620, (970) 479-9990 http://www.triumphmountainproperties.com
Where to Eat:
Aspen
Montagna - 675 East Durant Avenue, (970) 920-6330,
http://www.thelittlenell.com/restaurants/montagna-restaurant.aspx
CP Burgers - 433 East Durant Avenue, (970) 925-3056
Poppycock's - 665 East Cooper Avenue Aspen, Co., 81611, (970) 925-1245
Beaver Creek
Toscanini - 60 Avondale Lane, (970) 754-5590
Beano's Cabin - Beaver Creek Mountain, (970)754-3463 http://www.beanoscabinbeavercreek.com/beanos
Breckenridge
Blue Moose - 540 South Main Street, (970) 453-4859
Columbine Café - 109 S. Main St., (970) 547-4474
Empire Burger - 520 S Main Street, (970) 453-2329, http://empireburger.com
Crepes a la Cart - 307 South Main Street, (970) 453-4022, http://www.crepesalacarts.com
Giampietro Pasta and Pizza - 100 N. Main Street, (970) 453-3838, http://www.giampietropizza.com
Relish - 137 South Main Street, (970) 453-0989, http://www.relishbreckenridge.com
Twist - 200 South Ridge Street, (970) 547-7100, http://twistbreck.com
Telluride
221 South Oak - 221 South Oak Street, (970) 728-9507, http://221southoak.com
Siam - 200 South Davis, (970) 728-6886, http://www.siamtelluride.com
Vail
Matsuhisa - 141 East Meadow Drive, (970) 476 6628, http://www.matsuhisavail.com
Elway's at The Lodge at Vail - 174 East Gore Creek Drive, (970) 754-7818
Moe's Original BBQ - 616 West Lionshead Circle, (970) 479-7888, http://www.moesoriginalbbq.com
What to do:
Dog sledding and more (Beaver Creek and Vail) - Mountain Mushers Dog Sled Tours
970-653-7877, http://mountainmusher.com
Sleigh rides, snowmobiling, dog sledding, horseback riding - 4 Eagle Ranch (west of Vail and Beaver), 4098 Highway 131, Wolcott, Co., 81655, (970) 926-3372
Horseback riding and sleigh rides - Bearcat Stables, 2701 Squaw Creek Rd., Edwards, Co., 81632, (970) 926-1578, http://bearcatstables.com
Balloon rides - (Beaver Creek and Vail), Camelot Balloons, 4 Macdonald Eagle, Co., 81631,
(970) 328-2290
Dog sledding and snowmobiling (Breckenridge) - Good Times Adventures, 6061 Tiger Road, Breckenridge, (970) 453-7604, http://www.snowmobilecolorado.com
Historic walking tours (Telluride) - Ashley Boling walking tours by appointment, (970) 728-6639,
http://www.visittelluride.com/community-directory/ashley-boling
Bowling (Vail) – bōl, 141 E. Meadow Dr., Vail, (970) 476-5300, http://www.bolvail.com/bol
Dinner and a Movie Combo (Vail) - Cine Bistro at Solaris, 141 East Meadow Drive, Vail, Co., 81657, (970) .476-3344, http://cobbcinebistro.com/solaris/index.php
Transportation
Colorado Mountain Express - (800) 525-6363, http://www.coloradomountainexpress.com
Telluride Express - (970) 240-0813, http://www.tellurideexpress.com
Everyone has a wish list of places that they want to see and Niagara Falls was always on mine. After way too many years of just considering it, my husband and I finally decided to just do it. Situated about 400 miles from New York and approximately a 7 hour drive by car, we decided to drive as flights into the Niagara area were quite expensive. Taking along 2 of our grandchildren made the journey somewhat more challenging with the constant drone of, “Are we almost there yet?” but in spite of this little bit of exasperation, believe me it was worth it. Once we got close to the Falls you could see steam and they couldn’t believe that was just moisture rising off the water but that’s what it was. Someone had recommended we venture to the Canadian side so across the border we went. That meant of course taking along our passports and going through customs at the bridge spanning New York and Canada. Fortunately our grandsons were under 16 so they were off the hook. We didn’t even need to get out of the car and within minutes we were in Canada. Yes, they have attractions on both sides of the border but the Canadian side is definitely more scenic.
We decided on the Marriott Fallsview as our home away from home, one of the many hotels overlooking the Falls, and got goose bumps when we got our first glimpse outside our window. Our room had a spectacular view and my husband and I shared a little vino as we savored the fireworks displays on some of the nights along with the beautiful illumination that made the room almost a living, breathing thing. The hotel was top notch, a full service property with a Starbuck’s in the lobby, restaurants and lounge overlooking the main attraction and even a spa. Conveniently located next door to the Niagara Fallsview Casino, it offered a spectacular 2 night package that included buffet breakfast for 2, complimentary casino shuttle, a $75.00 dinner voucher at the Terrapin Grille restaurant where gourmet dining is accompanied by an incredibly romantic view of the Falls. We sprung for an upgrade to a Fallsview Room with a fireplace and comfortable chairs to enjoy that view.
As if that wasn’t enough the package also included a $40.00 spa certificate at Serenity Spa by the Falls. The spa offered a full range of treatments from a relaxing massage to reflexology, which uses the pressure points in the feet, hands, and head to benefit and promote healing throughout the entire body. The majestic Falls provided the backdrop as we slipped into deep relaxation and bliss. Signature treatments at Serenity ensure that your body, mind and soul are refreshed and reenergized. It was the ultimate spa experience in the ultimate location. Afterward we spoke with Anthony, the spa’s VP of Mktg. who clarified the experience, “Niagara Falls and the Serenity Spa is a magical combination that takes you to another world.” “It’s the closest hotel to the brink of the Falls. The spa has the advantage of a natural setting and creates an authentic environment where you can relax, refresh and revive. The range of services can make your time here truly memorable.” My husband and I gave in to the Cascade Signature Treatment, which was designed for couples and included facials, massages and deluxe spa pedicures followed by quiet time to unwind in our own private hydrotherapy tub by the fireplace.
Sounds enticing, right? Now what could be more perfect than to take a couple of days after the hectic holiday season and indulge yourself and your family? Our only disappointment was that we didn’t plan to stay longer. The Marriott had an enticing indoor pool with Jacuzzi which was just what we needed to relax prior to bedtime. My husband took advantage of the hotel’s gym and my grandsons the indoor pool while I lounged in the whirlpool.
Next day we were ready to tour the area. There are numerous tours and almost as many discount offers for the various attractions. We decided on The Adventure Pass which was within our budget and came with more coupons which were good for a number of attractions over a period of days, a map, and directions. Everything began at Table Rock Welcome Center, within walking distance of the hotel, where we caught the Falls Incline Railway for a quick one minute trip down to the main area. Our first adventure was Niagara’s Fury Journey Behind the Falls where we experienced the full force of the Falls, an amazing production which details every facet. All of us were simply fascinated. Using our all day transportation tickets we hopped aboard the People Mover Buses that take you to the other attractions. We then boarded the Maid of the Mist Boat for a journey into the Falls itself. Talk about an out of body experience! You literally feel the water as you venture closer, much further than we’d anticipated I might add. Back on land we hopped on the People Mover bus again to experience the force of the rapids on the White Water Walk which was awesome. We thought about doing the Whirlpool Aero Car ride but instead decided to venture into town to see what was possible for food and entertainment. We found a little Italian restaurant with the best lasagna right in the heart of town and felt what it was like to be in the nerve center of the area which for me was somewhat reminiscent of the boardwalks of New Jersey’s seashore. Yes, I’d have to admit it was all a bit honky-tonk but you have to appreciate that kind of scene once in a while. Finally, we took the Skywheel for an amazing view of everything. In the end, we had no time to include Ripley’s Believe it or Not or Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum or for that matter any of the other exciting rides.
At day’s end we were all exhausted and headed back to the hotel for dinner in the Terrapin Grille which, with the view and the gourmet food, was just what the doctor ordered. This was one trip that I intend to make again with more time for exploring the surrounding area and to experience the other attractions with an eye toward possibly driving further to Toronto.
There are seasonal festivals and one of the most beautiful one right now is called the Winter Festival of Lights. Canada’s foremost illumination festival captures the magic of the holiday season until January 31, 2012. Niagara Falls is transformed into a winter wonderland with over three million sparkling lights along a 6 kilometer route. There’s ice skating at the TK RINK at the Brink, grand holiday displays throughout the city, holiday concerts and many other events. Not to be missed is the Enchantment of Disney animated lighting displays which will mesmerize young and old alike with the magic of Disney.
Also on my bucket list is the Niagara Wine Escape Package which includes accommodations for two for two nights, $75.00 towards dinner at the Terrapin Grille, a Niagara on the Lake Winery Tour for 2-4 hours tour with tastings at the local wineries in the charming town of Niagara on the Lake. It comes complete with a gourmet lunch to go and of course a hot breakfast. What more could you pack into a weekend?
If that’s not enough, the Niagara IceWine Festival from Jan. 13-29, celebrates one of Canada’s hottest commodities. Niagara Icewine, made from grapes left on the vine to sweeten and then freeze, is served up at wineries and venues across the peninsula during the festival’s three-week run, including popular outdoor bars carved from ice in Jordan and Niagara-on-the-Lake.
As it was we wound up crossing back across the border into the U.S. with many wonderful memories. These will sustain us for a long time to come especially until our plans to go back and enjoy everything materialize.
The area codes for the Niagara Falls area are 905 in Canada and 716 in New York.
Where to Stay:
Marriot Fallsview- Can’t get sleep any closer to the falls than this! 6740 Fallsview Boulevard Niagara Falls, ON L2G 3W6, Canada. (905) 357-7300. www.niagrafallsmarriott.com
Red Coach Inn- Overlooks Niagara Falls majestic Upper Rapids and is modeled after the Bell Inn in Finedon, England. Red Coach offers many types of packages and is a great escape from your typical tower hotel. 2 Buffalo Ave, Niagara Falls NY. (716) 282-1459. www.redcoach.com
The Giacomo- This premiere luxury boutique hotel also features a residential component hosting 24 apartments with complete access to the hotel’s amenities. 222 First St. Niagara Falls, NY. (716)-299-0200. www.thegiacomo.com
Where to Eat:
Caffe Lola and Gelateria- Open all day this is a tasty spot to grab a Panini and some small plates. They do not have a liquor license. 507 3rd St. Niagara Falls, NY. (716)-282-5652. www.caffelola.com
Fortuna’s- This place has everything- Veal, chicken, steak etc. Come here for a filling Italian dinner or take out and eat at a nearby park. 827 19th St. Niagara Falls, NY. (716)-282-2252. www.fortunas.biz
The Keg Steakhouse & Bar-Located at the top of Niagara Falls this restaurant offers mouthwatering steaks, a great wine list and a breathtaking view of the falls. 6700 Fallsview Blvd Niagara Falls, Ontario. (905)-374-5170. www.fallsviewrestaurant.com
What to Do:
Maid of the Mist- Take this boat ride right past the falls to learn all about them and feel the sprays of water- good thing you’re supplied with a poncho! 151 Buffalo Ave. Niagara Falls, NY. (716)-284-8897. www.maidofthemist.com
Cave of Winds Tour- Your journey begins with an elevator ride 175 feet into the Niagara Gorge then you walk over wooden walkways to the Hurricane Deck and beyond. You wouldn’t dream of getting any closer to the falls. (716) 278-0337. www.niagarafallsstatepark.com
Down in the Hole
Once in a while everyone needs to get away from the everyday grind and all the responsibilities that go with it but it's rare that we actually go "off the grid" and just get lost. Part of the problem with taking a true vacation is that there is a finite list of places that afford you a vacuum of time and space devoid of the frenzy often associated with our modern lifestyles. I'm happy to report that Kauai is on that list. For one week you can live the carefree life you dream about during long days at work, the life that people on the island call being "down in the hole."
The first thing that newcomers notice about Kauai is its greenness. If you've seen Ireland then you'll know what I mean; Kauai, however, is different. The sun may shine more in one week on Kauai than perhaps the whole year in Ireland, and everything is lush. It is the Garden Isle after all. But that's not what's stayed with me, now back in my day to day. To me Kauai represents a feeling of being isolated in a laidback paradise, happy and content with what you have at any given moment.
Because cheap foreign labor outside the U.S. brought about the collapse of the sugarcane and pineapple industries, Hawaii's central industry is now tourism, which is both a plus and a minus. It means that everyone there welcomes travelers to their island with open arms, but on some you'll also be overwhelmed by over-priced touristy things. But Kauai has always been the quietest and most secluded of the four major Hawaiian Islands and it maintains a laidback, casual atmosphere. If you're looking for designer shopping, massive resorts, and nightclubs, go to Honolulu.
Kauai is the kind of place that has a single-screen movie theatre showing a movie that already played in New York months ago and has a dinner dress code allowing for flip-flops ("slippers" in Hawaii) and swim trunks. Yes, they have wireless internet, cruise ships, and posh beach resorts, but it's the kind of place that forces you not to care about those things, the kind of place that pulls you happily "down in the hole."
With just under 70,000 people on the entire island, you won't find big cities, but the island is rife with natural wonders to enjoy. You won't miss the disco after you've watched the sun set golden and red over the water or felt the cool ocean breeze sweep through the tall grasses or stared up at misty clouds clinging to cliffs looming high above you.
Perhaps the most essential natural wonder of Kauai is the beach. On the southern tip of the island, the Poipu Beach area is the perfect place to experience the laidback Kauai lifestyle. Spending the day in the sun with green sea turtles, hundreds of colorful fish, the occasional Monk seal, and a good book is one of the most satisfying ways to relax and unwind. Native Hawaiians and tourists alike mingle on the beautiful white sand or crowd around the grills in the big, grassy park, filling the air with the aroma of seasoned meat and the sound of laughter. If you're looking to challenge yourself physically, check out the easternmost bay along the Poipu Beach park. This narrow bay funnels sizeable waves toward the small strip of sand making it prime boogie boarding and body surfing territory.
There are some excellent restaurants in the Poipu area, but one of the most fun ways to eat is to make your own dinner on the beach and watch the sun set. You'll find lots of great Hawaiian products at the grocery stores (Hawaiian pineapples are better than any you've tried ... just trust me) but the freshest produce is found at the tiny street-side stands and farmer's markets all over the island. The Kalaheo Sunshine Market, just up the road from Poipu, happens every Tuesday afternoon at 3PM. You have to get there early for the best selection of produce but what you find will be excellent and it's a great place to experience the Kauai atmosphere.
It's held in a community center parking lot stained red by the iron rich soil that's tracked in by trucks from the farms. Six or seven vendors sit on the beds of the parked trucks or under the protection of large umbrellas and tarps with the week's produce laid out in front of them. You can find all kinds of interesting things including apple bananas, guavas, butter avocados, Okinawa sweet potatoes, mangoes, dragon fruit, and Surinam cherries.
As we perused the wares, one sun wrinkled Hawaiian lady regaled us with a cautionary tale about tourists who bought some of her Okinawa sweet potatoes (delicious sweet potatoes with a unique, bright purple interior) without letting her explain the difference, boiled them at home, then tried to return them next week because they were purple. She kept up a pleasant string of chatter and gave us helpful instructions with a big grin, "Here, here, put a couple of these chiles in your soy sauce, then dip some chicken or beef in it, and you'll fall in love. That's what I do!"
The nearby town of Koloa, which was the sight of Hawaii's first successful sugar mill, is also worth exploring. There was live music along the bank of the Waikomo Stream, protected from the sun by a massive tree. And you can get a shave ice, a famous red dirt T-shirt or any number of other gifts at some of the Old Town shops, but the Koloa Rum Co. just down the road is the real treat. It opened only a few years ago but the distillery already produces a line of excellent rums from white to gold to dark. If you visit the company store and tasting room you can even get free tastings of the different rums while chatting with the bartender at their on-site bar. Nothing helps beat the heat like a couple shots of rum mixed with their signature Mai Tai mix!
You should definitely go up to the northern tip of the island also. The road is narrow and windy because the area is sparsely populated but at the end you'll find must see beaches like Ke'e and Tunnels. Ke'e Beach is a picturesque, white strip of sand perfect for tanning and looks out on sapphire blue water that begs for a swim while Tunnels Beach is a snorkeler's paradise with beautiful corral formations, complete with deep trenches and lots of turtles and fish.
But perhaps the most famous landmark on the island is Waimea Canyon. Known as the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," this magnificent, high-elevation canyon may not rival the Grand Canyon in size but it definitely does in beauty. The long and winding Waimea Canyon Road provides several stunning lookout points where you can gaze on the bright red and green spattered cliffs. As you hop from one lookout to the other, absorbing the grandeur of Kauai's crown jewel, you may find a whole afternoon disappearing and you won't mind a bit. That's the thing about Kauai. You cherish the lazy, carefree way in which time passes there.
As you descend from Waimea Canyon, you'll go through a cute, sleepy little town named Waimea. There are some sizeable beaches nearby but no major attractions, except for a tiny yellow shack on the side of the road. Jo Jo's Shave Ice is the best shave ice in Hawaii so people come from all over the island to get their fix. Even a place this popular, which could probably spawn a chain, remains a simple shack with ridiculously low prices and a sign that lists their hours as:
"9 or 10, sometimes 11, mostly 12 or 1,"
until
"5 or 6, sometimes 4, mostly 2 or 3",
and then
only if the surf is low, there aren't any luaus, and the employees feel like working.
Maybe they're serious and maybe they're not but you get the feeling that it doesn't really matter. You'll get your shave ice at some point and there's plenty to do in the meantime. The sun is shining, the waves are rolling in, and people are having a good time. So, can you really blame them if they skip out on work once in a while? Sometimes, even Hawaiians need to disappear "down in the hole."
Getting There: Hawaiian Airlines just announced daily nonstop service between JFK and Honolulu beginning in June, 20112. From there it's a quick connect on the carrier's regularly scheduled flights to Kauai.
The area code for Kauai is 808.
Where to Stay
Kaua’i Marriott Resort- Great place to explore this warm island hospitality. Right on Garden Isle this hotel just underwent a $50 million upgrade with enhancements on all guestrooms, suites, restaurants and pool deck. Kalapaki Beach, 3610 Rice Street- Lihue. (808) 245-5050. www.marriott.com/Kauai
Poipu Kai Resort – expansive resort filled with one to five bedroom condos, homes, and studio cottages located within easy walking distance of the Poipu Beach park. Each rental comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, washer and dryer, cable TV, and an ironing board (mine even had some boogie boards, beach chairs, and umbrella). The resort also has tennis courts, swimming pools, Jacuzzi spa, and jogging paths for communal use. 800-367-8020 www.suite-paradise.com/poipu-vacation-rentals/poipu-kai-resort
Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa- This Four-Diamond hotel offers its guests their own personalized retreat. Be sure to Kayak in the lagoons, get a spa treatment at the Anara Spa and dance the night away at their authentic Luaus. 1571 Poipu Road, Koloa Kauai. (808) 742-1234. www.kauai.hyatt.com
Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas- This resort lies along the lush cliff on the north shore of Kaua’i. It is 200 feet about the Pacific Ocean with a pool looking out at the beaches and off to the horizon. The villas have intuitively designed floor plans that offer the conveniences of home. 3838 Wyllie Road. (808) 827-8700. www.westinprinceville.com
Where to Eat
Duke's – great surf-and-turf restaurant located in the Kauai Marriott resort overlooking the Nawiliwili Bay. Dark wood interior, fun atmosphere centered on the famous Hawaiian surfer Duke Kahanamoku, and beautiful open windows facing the water. Fresh seafood, tender steaks, unlimited salad bar, and Kimo's Original Hula Pie for dessert. www.dukes.kauaimarriot.com
Cafe Portofino - Ocean breezes and soft lighting provide the perfect ambience on the terrace of Cafe Portofino which fronts one of the most beautiful beaches in Kauai. The menu features the full monte of Italian specialties with a nod toward the North. Osso Bucco comes almost as big as the plate itself and Chicken Piccata is as light as air. Don't even think about passing up the 5 star Tirami Su for dessert. www.portofino.kauaimarriot.com
Merriman's Fish House – Phenomenal fine dining restaurant that thrives on using fresh, sustainable and local products. Elegant white exterior with comfortable dining room and back veranda looking out on lush Kauai fields and the Pacific Ocean. Specializes in seafood, but also has great steaks, and unbelievable desserts. Trust me, do not pass up the lobster mac and cheese to start. Located in the Kukui'ula Mall. 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka Street, Koloa, Kauai www.merrimanshawaii.com
Bubba's Burgers – Kauai natives have the same level of affection for Bubba's as west coasters (and even smart east coasters) do for In-N-Out, and for good reason. Bubba's serves fresh, grass fed Kauai beef with their special ketchup based relish on a toasted bun. Excellent burgers for a great price, but the atmosphere of the place might be its best asset. Bubba's proudly flaunts an irreverent sense of humor with slogans like "Bubba refuses to serve any burger that costs less than a can of dog food" and "We relish your buns." www.bubbaburger.com
Jo Jo's Shave Ice – Best shave ice in Hawaii, and that's saying something. For all you newbies, these aren't snow cones. Shave ice is ground finer and doused in better syrup than the snow cones we all grew up dissatisfied with. They have something like 60 flavors to mix and match plus vanilla cream to pour on top. But the real treat is the ice cream they put at the bottom. You won't want anything else on a hot day ever again.
What to Shop
Kong Lung Trading- This is the most original store on Kauai or in the world for that matter. It’s the gem of the Kong Lung Historic Center which at one time was the Old Kilauea Sugar Plantation company store. The historic center features several stores and restaurants and is worth a stop on the way to Princeville. The store is curated by owner Patty Ewing, with an ever changing selections of gifts, décorative items for the home, accessories and apparel. The product mix assures that you’ll find a gift for everyone in your family. Kong Lung Trading is located in Kilauea, Kauai, 808-828-1822 www.konglung.com
What to See & Do
Waimea Canyon – The "Grand Canyon of the Pacific." Stunning views at the top of a beautiful mountain drive. The mixture of red and green really sets it apart from other canyons. Lots of hiking trails start from up near the canyon, some of which go out to the Na Pali Coast.
Na Pali Coast - a helicopter tour of the awesome cliffs of Na Pali and the 15 mile stretch of coastland on the Northwest shore of the island is an unforgettable experience. Don't give in to fear - go! Jack Harter Helicopters, 808-245-3774, www.helicopters-kauai.com
Tunnels Beach – Fabulous snorkeling beach with great coral formations, swarms of colorful fish, and green sea turtles. Also has fine white sand, so you can relax in the sun. Unique atmosphere with abrupt green mountains hanging over the beach.
Allerton and McBryde Botanical Gardens – Located right next to each other, these are two of the U.S.'s five National Tropical Botanical Gardens. You have to pay to tour them, but it's well worth it. Both are stunning environments of intense natural beauty. You'll find collections original native Hawaiian plants, plants that the Polynesian explorers brought over, and a huge variety of spices.
You Gotta Have Art
Art Basel Miami Beach Returns with a Constellation of Fairs, Exhibitions, and Events
If you love art and design and don't mind crowds, head to Miami the first week of December for what's become known as Miami Art Week. The annual celebration of art and design transforms Miami, an already art and design conscious city, into a place where you can't pass a fire hydrant without wondering if it's a signed piece. Organized around Art Basel Miami Beach (ABMB), most exhibitions and events take place in Miami Beach or across the bay in Midtown Miami, the Wynwood Arts District, and the Miami Design District.
On the Beach
Ten years ago, Miami Beach may have seemed an unusual choice to host a sister fair for Switzerland based Art Basel, an internationally acclaimed art show for modern and contemporary art running 42 years. But, in retrospect, it was an inspired one, with Art Basel Miami Beach (ABMB) becoming one of the most important art shows in the U.S. as well as a draw for more than 40,000 art loving, sun seeking curators, critics, gallerists, collectors, artists, designers, socialites and celebrities from around the globe.
Held in the Miami Beach Convention Center, ABMB presents 20th and 21st century artwork by more than 2,000 artists represented by more than 260 leading art galleries in the U.S., Latin America, Europe, Asia and Africa. Divided into several sections, it presents both established and up and coming artists in a variety of formats. Adding to a heady cultural brew are Art Conversations, Art Salons, Art Positions, Art Video (in association this year with London's Artprojx and projected on the giant wallscreen of the newly opened New World Center designed by Frank Gehry), Art Film (curated by Zurich connoisseur, This Brunner), and Art Public (sculptures and performances presented in Collins Park in collaboration with the Bass Museum of Art). Art Video and Art Public are free.
Anticipating tired eyes and throbbing feet? The lovely, newly redesigned Miami Beach Botanical Gardens, directly across from the convention center, can provide a welcome respite from your ABMB art immersion. For a physical as well as emotional adjustment, there's YogArt Fair beginning November 30th at the Loews Hotel Miami Beach. For refreshments and retail therapy, the Lincoln Road pedestrian mall is nearby.
If ABMB is Art Basel's sister fair, then Design Miami is its' first cousin. The fairs are located near one another both in Basel and in Miami. The 7th annual Design Miami will showcase 20th and 21st century museum quality, collectible, and often stunning designs from more than 20 world class design galleries as well as four emerging ones. There will be Design Talks hosted by Stefano Tonchi and W Magazine and new design projects by Fendi, Audi and Swarovski. Visitors to the fair will be greeted by an exclusively commissioned installation created by African architect David Adjaye, the fair's Designer of the Year.
Hotel housed art fairs give new meaning to the expression "room with a view" and present a way to view art that is often private and intimate. It's not unusual to see shoes tucked under beds or art displayed in bathrooms. Most of these fairs are clustered around ABMB. The Greenwich Hotel, new home for Verge Art Miami Beach, is just half a block from the convention center and will include two juried exhibitions of emerging art. Ink Miami Art Fair, in the Dorchester Suites and sponsored by the International Fine Art Dealers Association, shows contemporary works on paper, including 20th century masters and just published editions. Pool Art Fair in the Carlton Hotel, follows the French tradition of artists' fairs and is dedicated to unrepresented artists while Art Now, in the Catalina Hotel, is a curated contemporary show.
Arts for a Better World at the Surfcomber Hotel will feature "Tous Ensemble" (All Together), an installation decrying violence by acclaimed French artist Marc Ash as well as The Van Gogh's Dream, a pavilion in which the room where the artist spent his last days will be recreated. It will also show videos about his life and house contemporary works that pay him tribute. A recreation of another kind is Will Ryman's twenty-two foot high bed...of sculpted roses at the Sagamore Hotel. Seattle based Aqua Art Miami will showcase forty five exhibitors in the Aqua Hotel. Sponsored by Modern Painter, it will have a VIP opening and include unique collaborations such as one installation created by a Navajo Nation artist working with Miccosukee Nation artists and another by artist Adad Hannah and Oscar winning filmmaker Denys Arcard.
Further south on famed Ocean Drive in South Beach, the Art Deco Welcome Center's new Burst Art Fair promises emerging artists and galleries and will include mixed media pieces, surreal pop art, indie film shorts, street art, sculpture, and photography. In the historic Deauville Hotel up in North Miami Beach, the 9th NADA (National Art Dealers Association) will showcase emerging art from more than thirty cities worldwide in ballrooms where Frank Sinatra and the Beatles once performed (but not together).
Across the Bay
Art Miami, now going strong for twenty-two years, found a new 125,000 square foot home in Midtown Miami several years ago and moved its dates to coincide with ABMB. With plentiful parking, restaurants and shopping nearby, the area's just a short ride across the bay from Miami Beach. Art Miami will showcase modern and contemporary art from more than one hundred art institutions and galleries in Europe, Asia, Latin America, India, the Middle East and the U.S.
Other art fairs have also located in Midtown. Across the street from Art Miami, ten year old Scope Miami will include eighty international emerging art galleries with solo and thematic shows as well as film, music, installation and performance art. Pulse, located closer to downtown Miami, has a similar range of art, but edgier. Art Asia features Southeast Asian, Near and Middle Eastern art. At the Rotunda, a pop-up location in Midtown, the SushiSamba Restaurant Group dishes up the exhibition "Graffiti Gone Global" with French architect Marc Fornes' 30 foot wide structure.
Just north of Midtown Miami is Wynwood Arts District, home to more than fifty cutting edge galleries, artist studios, art complexes, museum collections, restaurants and lounges. It's also home to more than 200 murals, making it a veritable outdoor art museum. Both car and pedestrian traffic increase exponentially during Miami Art Week. A popular destination is Wynwood Walls, an urban park displaying twenty murals by international artists. Neighboring restaurants decorated with street art will be filled with art lovers, revelers, and art-loving revelers. Some neighborhood fairs have both indoor and outdoor venues, such as Multiversal Art Fair, which offers art, music, and live performances and Seven, organized by seven galleries in a 15,000 square foot warehouse.
At the western end of the Miami Design District, a stone's throw north of Midtown and Wynwood, is the de la Cruz Contemporary Art Space which will have a special exhibition of local artists Justin Long and Robert Lorie. It Ain't Fair, with 20 artists, including acclaimed local artist Daniel Arsham, will be organized around the timely theme of materialism. The Buick Building on the eastern end will house The Craig Robins Collection of Art & Design while in the nearby Moore Building on the second floor, Haiti Art Expo II will raise money for housing for hurricane victims. Also there will be "Architecture and the Air" by Christopher Janney, whose new "Harmonic Convergence" interactive art installation will debut at Miami International Airport for Miami Art Week.
Miami Art Museum, the Bass Museum of Art, the Wolfsonian Museum, and MOCA North Miami Beach are among the local museums hosting special events and exhibitions during Miami Art Week. Some of Miami's renowned private collections are housed in museum-like buildings and open to the public; the Rubell family collection, COIF (Cisneros Fontanas Art Foundation), and The Margulies Collection in Wynwood will have extended hours as well as special exhibitions. Art incubators, The Bakehouse in Wynwood and the Art Center/South Florida on Lincoln Road in South Beach, will also host special exhibitions.
If you have the time to venture further, ahem, afield, you can visit Fairchild Tropical Garden to see Will Ryman's giant flower sculptures or Viscaya Museum & Gardens to see Naomi Fisher's video and installation. On December 4, from 9:30 to 12, The Frost Museum at FIU will host its annual free Breakfast in the Park, which includes brunch, lecture by noted sculptor Joel Perlman and tour of the sculpture garden – a delicious, refreshing way to conclude Miami Art Week.
Where to View Miami Art Week's best:
Art Basel Miami Beach
December 1-4
Miami Beach Convention Center
1901 Convention Center Drive
www.Artbaselmiamibeach.com
Arts for a Better World
November 30 – December 7
Surfcomber Hotel
1717 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach
www.Artsforabetterworld.com
Aqua Art Miami
December 2 - 5
The Aqua Hotel
1530 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach
www.Aquaartmiami.com
Art Asia
December 1-5
2901 North Miami Avenue (entrance on Midtown Boulevard)
Miami
www.Artasiafair.com
Art Miami
December 1 -5
Midtown Boulevard (NE lst Avenue) between NE 32 & NE 31 Streets
Miami
www.Art-miami.com
Art Now
December 1 -4
Catalina Hotel
1732 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach
www.Artnowfair.com
Burst Project Art Fair
November 30 – December 5
Ocean Drive at 10th
Miami Beach
www.Burstartfair.org
Design Miami
November 30 – December 4
Meridian Avenue & 19th Street
Miami Beach
www.Designmiami.com
Fountain Miami
Dec. 1 – 4
2505 North Miami Avenue
Miami
www.Fountainartfair.com
Graffiti Gone Global
December 1 -4
3252 NW lst Avenue
Miami
www.Gggexhibit.com
Haiti Art Expo II
December 1 - 4
4040 NE 2nd Avenue
Miami
Ink Miami Art Fair
November 30 – Dec. 4
Suites of Dorchester
1850 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach
www.Inkartfair.com
It Aint Fair
December 1 -4
81 NE 40th Street
Miami
www.oh-wow.com
Multiversal Art Fair
December 1 – 4
193 NW 24th Street
Miami
www.Multiversalmiami.com
NADA (New Art Dealers Alliance)
December 1 - 4
The Deauville Beach Resort
6701 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach
www.nadaartfair.org/about
Pool Art Fair
Dec. 2 – 4
Carlton Hotel
1433 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach
www.Poolartfair.com
PULSE
December 1 - 4
Ice Palace
1400 North Miami Avenue
Miami
www.Pulse-art.com
Red Dot
November 30 – December 4
3011 NE lst Avenue at NW 31st Street
Miami
www.Reddotfair.com
Scope Art Miami
November 29 – Dec. 4
3055 North Miami Avenue
Miami
www.Scope-art.com
Seven
November 29 – Dec. 4
2637 North Miami Avenue
Miami
www.Seven-miami.com
Verge Art Miami Beach
December 1-4
Greenview Hotel
1671 Washington Avenue
Miami Beach
www.Vergeartfair.com
Zone Art Fair Miami
Nov. 30 – Dec. 3
47 NE 25th St.
Miami
www.Zonesartfair.com
Additional helpful info:
*SUGGESTIONS FROM THE TRAVEL SQUIRE EDITORIAL STAFF
Where to Sleep
Hotel Victor- This hotel sits right on famous, art deco Ocean Drive and overlooks the beautiful white beaches of Miami. Can't get more in the scene than this. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/en-suite/item/143-hotel-victor-miami-beach) 1144 Ocean Drive; (305) 428-1234; www.hotelvictorsouthbeach.com
Z Ocean Hotel- This hotel is perfectly positioned between Collins and Ocean Drive in the heart of all that is fabulous and glamorous. The breezy passage way is the perfect place to relax and escape the summer sun. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/en-suite/item/295-miami-florida) 1437 Collins Avenue; (305) 672-4554; www.zoceanhotelsouthbeach.com
The Raleigh Hotel- Their famous, picturesque pool is a must see and provides an amazingly exotic atmosphere. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/en-suite/item/447-miami-florida) 1775 Collins Avenue; (305)-534-6300; www.raleighhotel.com
The Clinton Hotel and Spa- Your own personal hot tub balcony with sounds from the waterfall flowing into the courtyard pond below sets up a most relaxing hideaway just far enough from the Miami buzz. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/en-suite/item/442-miami-florida 825 Washington Ave; (305)-538-1472; www.clintonsouthbeach.com
National Hotel- it doesn't hurt to hole up at a glorious South Beach landmark especially when you're hanging with the high rolling art crowd. 1677 Collins Avenue. (305) 532-2311. www.nationalhotel.com
Lords Hotel- the dazzling lobby bar says it all, bring your dress up duds. Good location for heading to Barney's for something to tweak your outfit. 1120 Collins Ave. (305) 674-7800. www.lordssouthbeach.com
Where to Eat
Red, The Steakhouse- Come here for a hearty meal, with excellent flavor and wash it down with a ½ oz. pour of Remy Martin Louis XIII from the bar. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/428-miami-beach-florida) 119 Washington Avenue; (305) 534-3688; www.redthesteakhouse.com
City Hall- Enjoy the neighborhood feel this place has and the delicious home cooked meals like macaroni and cheese. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/689-miami-florida) 2004 Biscayne Boulevard; (305) 764-3130; www.cityhalltherestaurant.com
1500 Degrees- This five star experience in the Eden Roc Hotel is just steps away from the pool and beach, great setting to throw a large party! (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/688-miami-beach-florida) 4525 Collins Avenue; (305) 674-5588; www.1500degreesmiami.com
WISH- sit outside on a warm and balmy evening and you'll feel like you're in a tropical jungle. Be sure to order cocktails and save the glowing LED ice cubes. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/450-miami-florida) 801 Collins Avenue; (305) 674-9474; www.wishrestaurant.com
Quattro- smack in the vortex of SoBe (South Beach). Come here for amazing Italian cuisine and desserts prepared by award winning chef Antonio Bachour. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/687-miami-beach-florida) 1014 Lincoln Road; (305) 531-4833; www.quattromiami.com
Michy's- possibly the most creative comfort food in Miami. Portions are big and delicious, you will not leave hungry. (See related story- http://travelsquire.com/columns/taste-of-the-town/item/410-miami-florida) 6927 Biscayne Boulevard; (305) 759-2001; www.chefmichellebernstein.com
Sugarcane Bar & Grill- Midtown's new hot spot with a way cool vibe. Kick back and enjoy a beet mojito on the terrace then sample some of their fabulous tapas. This place is cozy and fun, decorated with 'found objects' and graffiti art. 3252 NE 1st Ave #115; (786) 369-0353; www.sugarcanerawbargrill.com
Childhood memories of Phoenix were a place of sun tea and 110 degree weather, a place lacking in charm and devoid of my own personal passion - fashion! Hired by Bloomingdale's, I arrived in New York City for their Executive Buyer Training program, escaping the dreariness of my childhood. But time marches on and now I look for any reason to escape the cold in the East. So, I jumped at the chance to attend my high school reunion in Phoenix and invited my 15 year-old-to be my date. Reluctantly she joined me in the adventure and we both left the cold behind us.
Somehow the Phoenix I remembered no longer resembled my youthful memories. Now I was looking at a sprawling urban evolution with numerous housing developments and multiple highways. I tried to access the landmarks but few remained, replaced by a surprisingly fresh and new perspective. Added to this, the surrounding mountains provided a scenic backdrop to the intricately planted landscape set against a desert that was serene and lovely.
On our first day, we sought out the Burton Barr Central Library to peruse old fashion telephone books in the Arizona Room (at my daughters suggestion) to look up my childhood addresses. To my surprise the library, which was built in 1995, was surrounded by a moat-like pool with high tech glass elevators and the magazine room housed hundreds of periodicals rivaling any East Coast Institution. We soon moved on to shop at No Money Pawn Shop, buying a fun piece of authentic native Indian jewelry for a song. Their wieldy stash of guns and knives intrigued us but we couldn't imagine doing any hunting in that heat. We were hoping for heat of a different kind in authentic Mexican food so while waiting to check-out I asked a Latino woman for her suggestion of a home style restaurant. Soon my question had circulated to other folks in the store and at last one of the patrons shouted, "Go a block and a half and turn right for Juan's Authentic Mexican Food. After guacamole, chips and salsa, enchiladas and a quesadilla, we were stuffed and pleasantly surprised that the bill totaled $15.00. As far as I was concerned my trip so far was a big success; I had at least found the food of my childhood.
Luxury of course is a nice thing to experience. As far as hotels in my hometown, the top of the pyramid is the historic Arizona Biltmore. Crowned "The Jewel of the Desert" in 1929 when it was built, its' art deco influence is infused with the legacy of Frank Lloyd Wright and today it almost seems like a living masterpiece even though it was actually designed by a student of Lloyd Wright's. We were fortunate to stay in the gracious Ocatilla wing where the halls are graced with historical pictures of the original hotel as well as more Art Deco decoration but translated with a modern twist. A lounge on the ground level offered continental breakfast, light evening fare and complimentary beer, wine and desert and the wing had its own private pool surrounded by colorful cabanas. The resort's gym facilities were expansive and I was even personally escorted in a golf cart and given access to the spa. Room service at the property was top notch and we swooned when we tasted their chocolate cheesecake with an Oreo crust. Spending private time with my daughter in our home away from home was the perfect bonding experience to arm me with courage to attend my high school reunion.
The reunion was far less painful than I expected but sadly, not memorable. My daughter was a little in culture shock by the experience and immediately texted her girlfriend, "My mom wants to know if she looks as old as her classmates?" She had to get in a little dig about my age but I got her back when I was awarded the "Certificate of Recognition" - for traveling the farthest to the reunion. We practically raced back to the oasis that the Biltmore had become.
The next day we headed north to Sedona for a quick day and half. I felt the pull of nature and the outdoors as we drove closer to the red rock mountains. The surrounding area is like no other in comparison to what I'm used to living the life of the hard core New York City resident. Plus, the chance to stay at the Enchantment Resort brought another dimension to the experience and our enhanced Casita Room, nestled in Boynton Canyon, was more than we could have wished for in our wildest dreams. Enchantment is surrounded by the Coconino National Forest and the Red Rock/Secret mountain Wilderness area, one of Arizona's most beautiful nature preserves. The wilderness contains the ruins of our beloved Native Americans.
We had made reservations at Mii amo, their destination spa, and decided to experience it ahead of check-in since the drive had tired us out. The spa takes its name from the Native American word for "journey" and offers complete state of the art fitness facilities as well as 22 treatment areas. I opted for a Chakra, a vibrational massage using different oils for each Chakra; it was Sedona after all, and I decided to go with the spiritual flow. My daughter went with a more traditional Swedish massage. We felt relaxed and revived afterward and decided to channel our psychic sides so we reserved a special fortune telling session with their popular astrologist on premises. They requested our dates of birth and time, so an official chart could be devised. I wanted to know my daughter's future, she wanted to know the present; would this school year bring a boyfriend and plentiful friends?
A highlight of our Sedona experience was Pink Jeep Tours. For more than 45 years they have provided an off- road adventure. The jeep literally leads you on the red rocks with views at Submarine Rock and Chicken point and at one point is positioned like a downward facing dog yoga pose. The descent down the "Road of no Return" is a heart pounding one and we were literally holding on to our hats. The guide was extremely knowledgeable and regaled us with stories about some of the rock formations which looked like different animals. I felt like I was learning about a whole new side of Arizona ... its geography, plants and history. Afterwards, I wanted to show my daughter one of my favorite places from my youth, Slide Rock State Park, an old apple orchard. Though a little treacherous, the canyon's refreshing cold water (65 degrees in summer) is fun to slide down as the natural rocks are smooth and slippery. Be sure to bring a pair of cut offs-- a swimsuit might not hold up!
Later that night we ended up at El Rincon for dinner. The night was quite cool but the restaurant provided blankets and the patio was warmly lit by heat lamps. Opened in 1976 as a premier restaurant in the Tlaquepaque Village, El Rincon was created as a family business and serves a unique "Arizona Style" traditional Mexican meal. I had the delicious chimichangas, with a spicy prickly pear margarita. I was warned not to drink too much as the designated driver in our small party of two. I consoled myself with a sopapilla dusted with cinnamon and topped with whipped cream and honey for desert.
The moment to head back to our big city life came way too fast when we had to catch the red eye. I surprised myself speeding down the highway as typically I seldom get the chance to drive back home. Even though we'd spent a mere 3 days together it was worth the trek. I had time-travelled to share a place that had little resemblance to my youthful days there but today had so much more to offer as an adult. What a wonderful leaning experience high school reunions can be!
NOTE FROM THE TRAVELSQUIRE EDITORS:
Mii Amo, at Enchantment Resort, is offering a new 7-night Journey presented by certified health counselor, Shelagh Dwyer. Along with luxury spa accommodations, daily meals at Mii Amo Café, 14 spa treatments, and full access to the resort's premier facilities and services, each participant will receive their own personalized healthy lifestyle program. They will gain specific knowledge pertaining to nutrition, fitness, and stress reduction techniques so they may achieve long-term wellness and continue on their road to self-renewal. The experience is great for people who are looking to begin the new year with a fresh start and what better place to find some inner peace than in the sacred sitting of Boynton Canyon.
The area code for Phoenix is 602.
The area code for Sedona is 928.
Where to Stay:
Ocatilla at Arizona Biltmore:
2400 East Missouri Avenue
Phoenix, Arizona 85016
602-955-6600
www.arizonabiltmore.com
Enchantment Resort:
525 Boynton Canyon Road
Sedona, Arizona 86336
928-282-2900
http://www.enchantmentresort.com
El Portal Sedona Hotel:
97 Portal Lane
Sedona, AZ 86336
800-313-0017
Where to Eat:
Juan's Authentic Mexican Food
1516 E. Thomas Road
Phoenix, Arizona 85014
602-241-1918
El Rincon Tlaquepaque
336 Highway 179#A112
Sedona, Arizona 86336-6102
Open Monday 11 am to 4pm
Tues – Sat 11 am to 9pm
Sunday – 11 am to 8pm
928-282-4648
What to do:
Mi amo, a destination Spa at Enchantment
525 Boynton Canyon Road
Sedona, AZ 86336
Reservations 888-749-2137
http://www.miiamo.com
Burton Barr Central Library
1221 N. Central Avenue
Phoenix Arizona 85004
Monday 9am to 5pm
Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday 11:00 am to 9pm
Friday and Saturday 9 am to 5pm
Sunday 1 to 5pm
No Money Pawn Shop
1152 East Indian School Road
Phoenix, Arizona 85014
Open daily 10 am to 7 pm
602-279-4417
Pink Jeep Tours
204 N. State Route 89A
Sedona, Arizona 86336
800-873-3662
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Slide Rock State Park
6871 N. Highway 89A
Sedona, Arizona 86336
928-282-3034
Fall for Santa Fe
What makes fall in Santa Fe so special? It's a glorious season showcasing the high desert at its best. For me, it's the heady aroma of roasting green chiles and burning piñon in the air. The weather is still warm, but there's a crisp chill in the night air. The leaves on the mountain aspens are turning a rich yellow and the sky is crisp and blue. The streets are less crowded; summer visitors have returned home. I wish I could stop time and keep it like this all year, but... I'm letting the secret out. It's the perfect time to visit.
Besides the usual ... fabulous shopping, world class art in the galleries and museums and wonderful food, there are some fun events to lure you here. Here of five things to do in the fall in Santa Fe.
1) Burning of Zozobra and Fiestas de Santa Fe
If you're a fan of fire and fun, come to the annual Burning of Zozobra. Old Man Gloom, as he's nicknamed, is a fifty-foot high puppet made from sticks, chicken wire and cloth. Local art legend Will Shuster came up with the idea in 1924 and with the help of a few others including renowned puppeteer, Gustav Baumann, built and burned the first Zozobra. It caught on like a house on fire and the rest, as they say, is history. Have cares and woes you want to get rid of? Put them on paper and they can go inside Old Man Gloom. After an evening of music and fun, Zozobra is set on fire to loud cheers as everyone's cares and woes go up in smoke. If you miss it, rest assured, Zozobra will return the following September to be burned again. It's a highlight of fall in Santa Fe.
This wildly popular event is the unofficial kick-off to Fiestas de Santa Fe, the oldest fiesta in the United States. Started in 1712, it commemorates the reconquest of Santa Fe by the Spanish. They fled during the successful Pueblo Revolt of 1680 and returned in 1692 led by Don Diego De Vargas. The events Friday, Saturday and Sunday include a religious procession with La Conquistadora (the oldest statue of the Blessed Virgin in the USA) at its head, the knighting of De Vargas and Coronation of La Reina de Santa Fe (the Queen of Santa Fe) and the popular Fiesta Melodrama. There are also two parades. The Children's Pet Parade (Desfile de los Ninos) is always fun and funny and for floats, bands and folks in costume, you can't beat the Historical/Historical Parade. For a good view, arrive early. As with Zozobra, f you don't make it this year, it will be back same time next year.
2) The Santa Fe Farmers' Market
The Santa Fe Farmers' Market is still going strong in fall. Colorful crops fill the booths waiting for you to take them home for a feast. If you're visiting and can't cook at your lodging, take home dried powdered chile, local jams or a ristra (hand-strung dried red chile peppers) to help you remember your time in Santa Fe or to give as gifts. It's great to meet and talk to local farmers. Santa Fe takes the idea of farm to table seriously. You can also find produce from the Farmers' Market on menus at local restaurants. The Santa Fe Farmers' Market has a permanent home in the trendy Railyard District. The market is open Saturdays throughout the year. Fall hours are 7am to noon through the end of September, from 8am to 1pm in October and 9am to 1pm for the rest of the fall season. They also have a Thursday market from 4 to 7pm through the end of September that features Cook with the Chef where a local chef uses the foods from the market.
3) Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta
And speaking of chile, if you're a food and wine aficionado, mark the annual Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta on your calendar. It's five days of wine and food events including wine dinners, wine seminars, cooking classes and tastings. Restaurants feature wine dinners, generally pairing with a specific winery, sometimes with a distributor. Chefs create wonderful, mouthwatering menus to pair with the grape. Everyone wants to fill their restaurant; the more enticing the menu and the wine, the better the chances for attracting diners. The highlight of the event is the Grand Food and Wine Tasting at the Santa Fe Opera on Saturday from 1 to 4pm. Local chefs cook signature dishes and wineries offer pours. Shuttle service is offered so you don't have to worry about how much you imbibe. This wildly popular tasting event always sells out so buy your tickets early. They go on sale in July.
4) Santa Fe Renaissance Fair
El Rancho de los Golondrinas is a living history museum, set on the lands of a Spanish Colonial era hacienda. The site, open from April through October, offers visitors the chance to experience life as it was in New Mexico hundreds of years ago. Weekends during the season, docents demonstrate life skills from a bygone day. From June through September, weekends bring special events and festivals that will educate and amuse. One highlight of the fall season is the Santa Fe Renaissance Fair held at the end of September. Go back in history to a time when life was hard, plague was not uncommon and very few had creature comforts. Don a period costume and join the fun or just come as you are. You'll discover a country fair with street buskers, jesters, jugglers, sword fights, belly dancers, vendors, food and more. Get into the spirit- grab a turkey leg and join the fun.
5) Pueblo Dances and Feast Days
One of the things that attracts people to Santa Fe is its rich history and Native American culture. For the ultimate Pueblo experience, attend their traditional dances and/or feast days. While these are spread throughout the year, there are many from September through Christmas. If there are dances scheduled while you're there, go. Pueblo life has come into the 21st century in many ways, but the dances remain unchanged.
Because of the Spanish influence in the southwest, the Pueblo peoples' traditions have become entwined with those of the Catholic Church. Many of their dances are held on Saints' days and Christian holidays and are considered sacred religious ceremonies. Bring your memory; cameras (and even cell phones) are not allowed.
And of course, always in season in Santa Fe is shopping, dining, galleries and museums and day trips into the high desert and the past. Now a special destination all throughout the year, if you want to see Santa Fe at its best, think about booking for fall.
Author's note: The Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta, held the first two weekends of October, is the largest ballooning event in the world. Grab your camera and head for Santa Fe, a great base for the festivities. Driving down to Balloon Fiesta Park should be hassle-free if you avoid the first weekend.
The area code for Santa Fe is 505.
Where to stay
The Inn and Spa at Loretto - a block from the Plaza, it's one of Santa Fe's most photographed buildings and screams Santa Fe Style. The southwest inspired lobby is a great place to hang out for a drink. 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, (505) 988-5531 www.innatloretto.com/
Inn of the Five Graces – if the idea of Santa Fe meets the Casbah appeals to you, this is your kind of place. You'll love this luxurious, all-suite gem with ethnic-chic items from the owners' shop, Seret & Sons. All the suites have wood burning fireplaces; most feature soaking tubs and mosaic art on the bathroom walls. 150 East De Vargas Street (505) 992-0957 www.fivegraces.com/
Santa Fe Sage Inn - located at the eastern edge of the Railyard district, this is for the more budget conscious. It offers basic motel accommodations at reasonable prices. They offer shuttle service to the Plaza area and around town. 725 Cerrillos Road (505) 982-5952 www.santafesageinn.com/
El Ray Inn – perfect if retro is your thing. Dating to the glory days of old Route 66 (it opened in 1936) it's vintage yet refurbished. 1862 Cerrillos Road (505) 982-1931 www.elreyinnsantafe.com/
Where to eat
315 Restaurant and Wine Bar - a popular spot for serious food and great wines. The menu is French bistro inspired, but goes way beyond that. Serving dinner and a bar menu. 315 Old Santa Fe Trail (505) 986-9190 www.315santafe.com/
Café Pasqual's - legendary in these parts and a true destination. They specialize in world cuisine and with a touch of Northern New Mexico. They use fresh, local and organic whenever possible. The community table is perfect for single diners. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations (for dinner only) are a must. 121 Don Gaspar Avenue, (505) 983-9340 www.pasquals.com/
Rancho de Chimayó - while here, sample the local cuisine. In New Mexico, chile is king so take a ride into the countryside and explore the quaint town of Chimayó. While there, stop for lunch or dinner at this historic establishment and order a prickly pear margarita with your meal. 297 Juan Medina Rd., Chimayo, NM (505) 351-4444 www.ranchodechimayo.com/
What to see and do:
The Burning of Zozobra http://www.zozobra.com/ is held in Fort Marcy Park, access is off Bishop's Lodge Road. Fiestas de Santa Fe http://www.santafefiesta.org/ is held in the Santa Fe Plaza and downtown areas.
The Santa Fe Farmers Market's permanent home is at 1607 Paseo de Peralta just west of Guadalupe St. in the historic Guadalupe/Railyard District. (505)983.4098 www.santafefarmersmarket.com/
The Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta has events at restaurants all over town. The Grand Tasting is held at the Santa Fe Opera. (505) 438-8060 www.santafewineandchile.org/
The Santa Fe Renaissance Fair http://www.sfrenfair.org/ is held at El Rancho de las Golindrinas www.golondrinas.org/ 334 Los Pinos Road, southwest of town. It's a great place to visit if you come to town during their season.
Albuquerque's Indian Pueblo Cultural Center website has directions and contact information for the Eight Northern Pueblos www.indianpueblo.org/19pueblos/sanildefonso.html
Romancing the River
I had one thing on my mind as I stepped into the Town Crier Bakery in Peddler's Village ... butter cake. A stroll past the window's dazzling cake display got me to thinking that this country bakery in Bucks County promising "baking the old fashioned way" might possibly have the forgotten cake I was fond of as a kid. Having grown up in Philly loving this scrumptious confection, I was on a mission to find it but I hadn't thought to put Bucks County on the list of possibilities. With the sad realization lately that many old world crafts from years ago are fast disappearing, I was about to give up my quest when fate intervened.
Growing up, one Saturday a month the family was treated to butter cake's gooey sweetness. A rectangular coffee cake in the German/Viennese tradition, it got its' name from the topping which is both liquid and solid at the same time and sits like a pool of sugar almost begging to be spooned off. I used to walk home with instructions from the bakery to hold the cake flat on my hand lest the topping run over the sides before it got to the breakfast table. The topping was like lava from the volcano; when it ran, the cake was bare and the best part ruined. You made sure to keep the bag flat and walk slowly.
Well, guess what? My search paid off that day at the Town Crier. Their butter cake was amazing and it set the course for an eclectic weekend that included exceptional Creole food, a stand-up comedy act straight from the gay Atlantis cruise Line and an inside glimpse into everything Henry Mercer, one of BC's preeminent rule breakers.
And that is definitely the point abut Buck's, it breaks the rules. I think it all started with that infamous crossing of the Delaware River by Mr. Washington which to this day is re-enacted every Dec. 25. The annual event with participants costumed in Revolutionary War costume occurs around 1 pm on Christmas Day and I've heard it's the real deal. Having spent a fantastic snowy weekend at the Golden Plough Inn in Peddlers Village, one of the best B&B's ever, I can only say that it's definitely on my bucket list as a must do for Christmas Day one year. Even in winter, Bucks County's treasures don't disappoint.
The lore of Bucks isn't a secret. Ninety minutes by car from New York City and about forty minutes from Philadelphia's Center City, it's a special place. Most people living in those two different urban areas have a sense of it but few know the inside story. With a long history as a safe haven for artistic types, it was home to the art colony called the Pennsylvania Impressionists. A popular writer's colony too for years, James Michener's legacy spawned a fabulous regional museum and today it's even possible to stay in the former home of Oscar Hammerstein, II as well as tour Pearl S. Buck's country home. There is a kind of creative DNA prevalent throughout the area and this becomes obvious as you discover the towns of New Hope and Doylestown as well as the jewels in the crown there like the Mercer Museum, Fonthill Castle and the Michener Museum.
But it isn't fair to focus all the attention on the attitude of Bucks. Even if you're not impressed by a place where folks just can't get enough of you no matter what your peculiarities are, I doubt that few would turn up their noses at the awesome natural spectacle that the region possesses. Nestled amid rolling hillsides hugging the Delaware River, massive working farms and picturesque 18th century villages, this county personifies the "country." A strong competitor to NYC's Hamptons and the "Jersey Shore", Bucks offers covered bridges, colonial homes and a connection to a past that makes it a far better choice for anyone wanting more than just a pretty beach and B-level celebs trying to attract attention. Here, it's about the soul.
Start your adventure at New Hope. There's something about the name, right? William Penn thought so. The founder of Pennsylvania and a champion of democracy and religious freedom, Penn knew his mind and stuck to it. He was a devout Quaker who escaped religious persecution in England by settling down here and it's hard to imagine he didn't have a say in the town's name. At the core of Quakerism was the rights of the individual and perhaps it's this belief today which sums up the attitude here. There's a kind of renegade spirit amongst the townspeople reminiscent of Key West or San Francisco. Freedom is the mantra and New Hope attracts anyone wanting to let down their hair down. You can visit Penn's home in the area, Pennsbury Manor, but it only scratches the surface of all there is to see and do. Explore the quaint colonial town's art and craft galleries and antique shops then take a walk along the Delaware River. If you're looking to float your cares away there's tubing, canoeing, rafting and kayaking. Enjoy a guided trail on horseback with the whole family or hop on the New Hope & Ivyland Railroad for a scenic tour in the bucolic surroundings. If you're into history, nothing beats the all important stop at Washington Crossing Historic Park and after getting the 411 on that eventful day you can picnic. For shopaholics, Peddlers Village is a paradise. New Hope also has a vibrant night life scene so save some energy for after dark.
After New Hope head to the neighboring town of Doylestown, the yang to New Hope's yin and a must see. Once home to both James Michener and Oscar Hammerstein II, it's more laid back and residential with an old fashioned small village feel. It's impressive for a trio of historic museums comprised of the James A. Michener Art Museum, the Mercer and Fonthill Museums as well as the Moravian Pottery & Tile Works. Fonthill was Mercer's home and feels more like a European castle with every inch of the space showing off his creative genius, especially using terra cotta tile. His museum is a grouping of towering castle houses exhibiting a staggering 30,000+ items that chronicle daily life in America. They range from simple hand tools to massive horse-drawn vehicles and oddities like a whale boat, a stage coach and a Conestoga wagon. And then there's the gallows. Don't miss it! Moravian Pottery is a museum and working factory that still produces by hand the designs of Henry Mercer. Situated in the reconstructed buildings of the old Bucks County prison, the Michener museum is a treasure trove of art by well known period artists from the surroundings. These are not your run of the mill cultural institutions. Each has a unique personality that you won't forget.
Whatever you take away from a day, weekend or extended stay here in Bucks, you'll be sure to feel the good vibe that's everywhere and will get to experience a wide variety of explorations and adventures fitting all lifestyles. Just don't forget to bring me back a butter cake.
The area codes for Bucks County are 610 and 215.
Where To Stay
Golden Plough Inn – check in to one of the suites out of the main wing above the shops at Peddler's Village where double-size Jacuzzi tubs straddling the bath and suite will get your imagination running wild. Built in gas-lit fireplaces set the mood for romance and the huge flat screens are a nice wind down. Route 202 & Street Road, Lahaska, Pa. 18931; 215-794-4004; www.goldenploughinn.com
Golden Pheasant Inn – the quintessential DNA of the county is to be discovered here at this genteel, colonial establishment. Check in to one of their 6 romantic, antique filled guestrooms featuring four poster queen sized canopy beds, private baths and continental breakfast. 763 River Road, Erwinna, Pa. 18920; 610-294-9595; www.goldenpheasant.com
Black Bass Hotel – a recent makeover has turned this landmark into a boutique B&B, if there is such a thing! Nine newly renovated suites decorated with antiques from the hotel that have been lovingly restored are hard to resist especially since most have private balconies overlooking the scenic Delaware River. 3774 River Road, Lumberville, Pa. 18933; 215-297-9260; www.blackbasshotel.com
Highland Farm Bed & Breakfast – let history inspire you in elegant surroundings. Relax on the wraparound porch where Oscar Hammerstein II wrote lyrics for the great American musical, Oklahoma. Stroll through the library where Mr. Hammerstein worked at his standing desk. Now beautifully restored as a B&B, it's the perfect place for a romantic getaway or a walk down musical memory lane. 70 East Road, Doylestown, Pa. www.highlandfarmbb.com
Bucks County Sheraton – see full story in En Suite, http://www.travelsquire.com/columns/en-suite/item/656-bucks-county-pennsylvania , 400 Oxford Valley Road, Langhorne, Pa. 19047; www.sheratonbuckscounty.com
The Rittenhouse - if you're interested in experiencing the historical glory of Philadelphia and everything it has to offer, there's no better place to stay than here as it's ranked among the world's finest hotels. Rooms are king-sized, beautifully appointed and the concierge services are unmatched. A great place to head after a few days in Bucks County or spend the weekend in Philly first, then hit the country for some R&R. 210 West Rittenhouse Square, Phila. Pa. 19103; 800-635-1042; www.rittenhousehotel.com
Where to Eat
Marsha Brown – this refined Creole kitchen and lounge in the heart of New Hope transformed the 125 year old stone church it's located in. The main dining room boasts 40 feet ceilings with ornate finishes and an impressive 30 ft. mural on its altar. Don't miss the sweet potato casserole. 15 So. Main Street, New Hope, Pa. 215-862-7044; www.marshabrownrestaurant.com
Golden Pheasant Inn (on the Delaware River) – This country B&B is home to an exceptional restaurant serving delicious French country cuisine. Dine in their Tavern Room with exposed ceiling beams or their converted candlelit greenhouse with a scenic view of the river. 765 River Road, Erwinna, Pa. 18920; 800-830-4474; www.goldenpheasant.com
Black Bass Hotel – don't miss their fabulous Sunday Champagne Brunch, a three course prix fixe menu for $32.50. 3774 River Road, Lumberville, Pa. 18933; for reservations: 215-297-9260; www.blackbasshotel.com
Earl's Bucks County – new American cuisine with menu items that celebrate the rich diversity of the area, created using the region's freshest ingredients, naturally grown and raised on small, local sustainable farms, ranches and fisheries. 164 Peddlers Village, Lahaska, Pa. 215-794-4000; www.peddlersvillage.com
Sweet Lorraine's Café & Bar – a causal, fun and sophisticated eatery offering award-winning chef Lorraine Platman's World Beat cuisine. The best breakfast in town, try the Scrapple Scramble. Peddlers Village, Lahaska, Pa. 215-794-4000; www.peddlersvillage.com
The Landing – excellent service and exceptional cuisine await you in a beautiful riverside setting and the hospitality factor here is A plus. 22 North Main Street, New Hope, Pa. 215-862-5711; www.landingrestaurant.com
The Sandbar – an inventive Cuban/Caribbean fusion menu with summery cocktails that make this place a winner. 90 Main Street, New Hope, Pa. 215-862-3030; www.sandbarnewhope.com
Jules – take a break from fine dining and head here for awesome organic thin crust pizza. Offering 3 types of crust and 27 selections, spanning meat, veggie and cheese, this pizza is unforgettable. 78 South Main Street, Doylestown, Pa. 18901; 215-345-8565; www.julesthincrust.com
What to Take Out
Town Crier Bake Shop – no surprise, the buttercake is the name of the game here. Peddlers Village, Routes 202 & 263, Lahaska, Pa. 18931; 215-794-9910; www.towncrierbakery.com
Fritz's Bakery - I defy anyone to say that there are better sticky buns anywhere else. A long standing Philly specialty, what we called "cinnamon buns" are made here fresh daily in the German tradition and are ready to devour. 360 North Oxford Valley Road, Langhorne, Pa. 19047; 215-949-7995; www.fritzsbakery.com
Philly Pretzel Factory – it's unthinkable to tour the Bucks (and Philly) area without noshin' on the official snack of the region (and much of Pa.), the soft pretzel. Originating with the German immigrants in the 1800's, pretzels are a big part of the area's history. You'll find the best here and at a good price, too. 5742 Lower York Road, Lahaska, Pa. 18931; 215-794-5105; www.phillypretzelfactory.com
What to See
Washington Crossing Historic Park – history textbooks come alive at the site where George Washington and his troops crossed the Delaware River in 1776. This pivotal moment in U.S. history is showcased through interpretative tours every weekend. Box 103, Washington Crossing, Pa. 18977, 215-493-4076; www.ushistory.org/washingtoncrossing
Mercer Museum – you can't possibly leave Bucks without some private time looking into the mind of the incredible Henry Mercer and his obsession, collecting. You'll need at least half a day to take it all in completely. 84 South Pine Street, Doylestown, Pa. 18901; 215-345-0210; www.mercermuseum.org
Fonthill Castle – it's unthinkable to visit Bucks without touring this idiosyncratic manifestation of Henry Mercer's vision. Enjoy a private guided tour with all the guts & gore about Mercer who built it between 1908 and 1912. It boasts over 44 rooms, 18 fireplaces and more than 200 windows. Interior walls, floors and ceilings are elaborately adorned with an array of original handcrafted tiles. East Court Street & Route 313, Doylestown, Pa. 18901; 215-348-9461; www.fonthillmuseum.org
Moravian Pottery & Tile Works – this national historic landmark and working museum produces decorative tiles and mosaics similar to that employed by the area's famous resident, Henry C. Mercer. Take time to enjoy their extensive tile shop on site. 130 Swamp Road, Doylestown, Pa. 18901; 215-345-6722; www.buckstravel.net/moravian_tileworks.html
Michener Museum – the old Bucks County jail, once a place of fear and despair, has been transformed into an epicenter of culture and beauty, guarding the "art and soul" of Bucks County. The museum, celebrating 20 years of collecting, is home to a world class collection of Pennsylvania Impressionist paintings and hosts unique and exciting special exhibitions as well as showcasing important regional artists. 138 So. Pine Street, Doylestown, Pa.; 215-340-9800; www.michenerartmuseum.org
Pearl S. Buck House – visit Green Hill Farms, the country estate of the famous author, furnished with her private collections. 520 Dublin Road, Perkasie, Pa. 215-249-0100; www.nps.gov/nr/travel/delaware/gre.htm
What to Do
Hot Air Ballooning – experience the scenic countryside at new heights with the U.S. Hot Air Balloon Team. Drift above miles of breathtaking landscapes throughout the county as you soar on a picturesque adventure. Hot air ballooning is a thrilling way to celebrate something special or plan the perfect proposal. U.S. Hot Air Balloon Team, 800-592-1525; rides take off at The Inn at Barley Sheaf Farm, 5281 York Road, Holicong, Pa. 18928; www.ushotairballoon.com
Water Sports – explore the endless pleasures of the Delaware River from tubing and rafting to canoeing and kayaking. Check out the snuggle tubes. Bucks County River Country, 2 Walters Lane, Point Pleasant, Pa. 18950, 215-297-5000; www.rivercountry.net
Horseback Riding – novice to experienced riders alike can enjoy a guided tour through the beautiful trails along Nockamixon Lake. 1035 Old Bethlehem Road, Perkasie, Pa. 18944, 215-257-6271; www.haycockstables.com
New Hope & Ivyland Railroad – relax as you travel through the rolling hills and valleys experiencing first-hand the sights, sounds and romance of the Golden Era of Steam Railroading. Get a seat in the new open air car to enjoy the breeze with unobstructed views of Bucks. 32 West Bridge Street, New Hope, Pa. 18938, 215-862-2332; www.newhoperailroad.com
Bob Egan's Supper Club & Cabaret – Bucks County's premier nightclub for great music, food and fun. This supper club & cabaret at the Ramada Inn in New Hope hosts a weekly talent showcase featuring a variety of talent and musical styles. A great way to catch some of the local energy that is abundant in New Hope. Ramada New Hope, 6426 Lower York Road, New Hope, Pa. 18938; 215-862-5225; www.bobegansnewhope.com
Where to Shop
Peddler's Village – a recreation of an 18th century style shopping village boasting 42 acres of lush landscapes and winding brick pathways with 70 specialty stores, six restaurants and a 70 room luxury B&B, the Golden Plough Inn. The Squire's favorite shops were Fehrenbach Black Forest Clocks (Shop #46) for authentic German collectibles, Eldreth Pottery (Shop #59), for handmade pottery using traditional German production methods, Chaddsford Winery (Shop #20) and of course, the Town Crier Bake Shop. Routes 202 & 263, Lahaska, Pa. 18931; 215-794-4000; www.peddlersvillage.com
Better Than Ever
By the end of May in New Orleans you can easily find yourself with a case of the summertime blues. This year, mine were bad. With temperatures nearing 100 for days on end, 90 degrees felt like a cold snap. I knew I had to get away but with a recession-minded budget my travel options at first glance didn't look great. That is, until I considered San Francisco. If you've ever dreamed of driving a convertible over monumental bridges, speeding along narrow roads and winding up around lushly forested hills, San Francisco would be the reality to live out that dream. On the other side of the coin, if you long to get in touch with your inner hippie and uncover the origins of the beatnik phenomenon and experience the neighborhoods and haunts that inspired it, there is certainly no better place to do it than San Francisco.
San Fran is often called "Fog City" and anyone roasting right now in a hot, humid climate can rest assured that the city didn't get its nickname by accident. Not only is it mysteriously fog prone but for a California town, more often than not the weather's not hot. In fact, in the middle of June, there were moments when it felt downright chilly (this coming from New Orleans, of course). But it isn't the fog that makes the "city by the bay" the gem that it is – though the fog certainly helps. I would have to say the city's greatness lies first in its beauty and second in the abundance of superb 
and affordable restaurants. The third reason San Fran is totally great is the innate mystery the town possesses – walking down any San Francisco street can instantly feel downright cinematic. In fact, movie lovers cannot help but connect the breathtaking landscape of San Francisco with Alfred Hitchcock's film Vertigo. Filmed in various locations there, it shows a city of steep hills and rocky precipices, suspense and grandeur, deep blue skies against stark white, Spanish-style churches and oceanic vistas of the Pacific. Vertigo is a psychological thriller that eerily matches the city's DNA. Whether or not you're a Hitchcock fan and even if you've never seen Vertigo, San Francisco has the undeniable characteristics of one of the film's stars, Kim Novak, the blonde, of course: astonishingly beautiful, culturally rich and mysterious.
When gold was discovered in the Sierra Mountains and the foothills to the east of San Francisco, it was brought there and lavishly spent on the infrastructure and beautification of the city. Before the rush, there were 400 people in the city but two years later in 1849 that number grew to more than 20,000 residents. In 1906 an earthquake and fire destroyed most of the city, but it was quickly rebuilt, perhaps contributing to the town's multilayered personality, a bit like New Orleans in that respect. Take for instance the city's trolleys, streetcars and cable cars. Not only are these relics from a bygone era visually stunning and efficient but the rest of San Francisco's public transportation system is also extremely eco-sensitive, not to mention reasonably priced. You can go just about anywhere you want on the cars, including Chinatown, an incredibly genuine treat north of Union Square.
Strolling through Chinatown, past herbal shops, temples and pagoda roofs, it's easy to forget that it's just one small piece in the puzzle of this densely populated city. Sandwiched between North Beach and Nob Hill, it is the largest Chinatown outside of Asia. As intricately constructed as the pagodas but of a completely different style are the city's Golden Gate and Bay Bridges, emblematic of a classic elegance and architecture. Almost everywhere in the city you can catch a glimpse of one of these astonishing structures, but for a birds' eye view, head up to Coit Tower.
Located in the Telegraph Hill neighborhood adjacent to North Beach, Coit Tower was constructed in 1933 at the bequest of Lillie Hitchcock Coit (no relation to Alfred) "for the purpose of adding beauty to the city." The tower contains stunning murals by 26 different artists completed as public works projects toward the beginning of the New Deal's federal employment programs for artists. These murals and the tower grounds are impressive, but it's the view seen from the top of the tower that will knock your socks off. Whether you visit day or night – and both timeframes are superb – savor a panoramic vista of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, Pier 39, Angel Island, Treasure Island, the Bay Bridge, Russian Hill, the Financial District, Lombard Street and Nob Hill. The tower is only a short walk from Fisherman's Wharf but a short and steep climb up the Filbert Steps, a system of wooden and concrete steps that lead to the top from various directions, making the climb direct from almost anywhere at the bottom.
From Coit Tower, head just a few blocks back to the center of North Beach, San Francisco's Little Italy. While fewer Italian-Americans are living there now, Italian restaurants and bakeries line the streets, with all the smells of the best Italian ingredients wafting over you. The neighborhood is also San Francisco's "red-light district," and was a hotspot for the punk movement in the 1980s. Long before that in the 1950s, North Beach was the center of the Beat Generation and gave rise to the term "beatnik." An alley off Columbus Avenue between Kearney Street and Broadway is named for Jack Kerouac, the beat writer who once lived there. Take a walk down Jack Kerouac Alley to the renowned City Lights Bookstore whose founder and owner, poet Louis Ferlinghetti, once faced an obscenity trial for publishing Howl and Other Poems, Allen Ginsberg's poetry collection.
Should you have a yearning to get into the natural beauty of the city, head west to the Presidio. Memorable for its lushly wooded grounds and Spanish architecture, San Francisco's Presidio is a park on the northern tip of the San Francisco peninsula. Once a Spanish military fort, it's comprised of several military bunkers and a historic cemetery with spectacular views of the Golden Gate Bridge, the San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean. It also houses a marine center and is a great spot to end a bicycle ride over the Golden Gate Bridge. Should you want to stay more central, tour the infamous Haight Ashbury neighborhood. From there you're close enough to Golden Gate Park, a huge urban oasis right in the city center and home to the de Young Memorial Museum, recently re-defined by Switzerland's starchitectural team of Herzog & de Meuron. Also worth hours of your time is the California Academy of Sciences and The Japanese Tea Garden (reportedly the site of the fortune cookie's introduction to American culture). Add a botanical garden and Stow Lake which surrounds Strawberry Hill, an island with an electrically pumped waterfall and bison paddock boasting a small herd of buffalo and you have a full day of activities.
Don't even think about leaving San Francisco without trying at least one Mexican restaurant and my vote is to order a Mission-style burrito. The burrito is to San Francisco what the pizza is to Chicago and New York. San Franciscan-born and bred and characterized by its size and the quantity of rice, beans, avocado and sour cream, it's a meal rolled into a giant homemade tortilla. Dig in and savor the intense flavors of the salsa and beans. Now hop the #11 Market trolley back to your hotel and get ready for another day in paradise.
The area code for San Francisco is 415.
EDITOR'S NOTE
A complete guide to the endless joys of San Francisco has been compiled here by the TravelSquire editors.
WHERE TO STAY
The St. Regis – spring for an executive corner suite where the wraparound views will hypnotize you. If they don't the bath menu should do the trick. 125 3rd Street. (415) 284-4000. www.starwoodhotels.com
The W San Fran – as we all know, expect the unexpected here. This SOMA (South of Market) hang out is perfect if you're travelling solo. 181 Third Street. 415-777-5300. www.wsanfrancisco.com
Hyatt Fisherman's Wharf – why not enjoy the endless pleasures of SF's top tourist destination from your window? This Hyatt occupies a prime spot of real estate and the chic, cozy lobby will easily impress spontaneously invited friends. 555 North Point Street. +1 415 563 1234. www.fishermanswharf.hyatt.com
Hyatt Regency Embarcadero – Try this financial district gem with a 360 degree view of the stunning bay area from the rooftop lounge (martini, in hand, of course). Like feeling important? This is your place. 5 Embarcadero Center. +1 415 788 1234. www.sanfranciscoregency.hyatt.com
Hotel Diva – you can finally exercise your inner diva somewhere that's got your back! The Design Within Reach suite is where you should be shooting for optimum results. 440 Geary Street. 415-885-0200 . www.hoteldiva.com
Triton Hotel – practically a San Fran institution, you'll love seeing the gates of Chinatown every morning. Stay in the Jerry Garcia celebrity suite and have plenty of Ben & Jerry's Cherry Garcia on hand for afterhours noshing. 342 Grant Avenue. 415.394.0500. www.hoteltriton.com
Hotel Abri - This urban hotel close to Union Square provides a home away from home atmosphere with a full living room with sofa bed, foyer, and en suite bath leading to a cozy bedroom. Great spot for entertaining a few guests before venturing out for the evening. 127 Ellis Street. 415-392-8800. www.larkspurhotels.com/collection/abri
WHERE TO EAT
Zuni – there's a reason why their drum is still beating after 20 years ... oysters! And the servers ain't bad lookin' either. 1658 Market Street between Franklin & Gough. 415-552-2522.
www.zunicafe.com
Cafe Divine – feel like a taste of Little Italy? After stomping those hills in North Beach, you'll need a Campari & Soda, right? 1600 Stockton Street on Washington Square. 415-986-3414. www.cafedivinesf.com
Spruce – don your best basic black and grab a seat at the bar for a nightcap and a snack. With over 60 wines by the glass who could complain? Is that Robin Williams at the other end of the bar? 3640 Sacramento Street. 415-931-5100. www.sprucesf.com
The Cliff House – there's something to be said for enjoying Sunday brunch perched on a bluff overlooking the crashing surf. Oh yeah, have another Bloody Mary then try to convince someone about that whale you spotted. 1090 Point Lobos. 415-386-3330. www.cliffhouse.com
Knuckles – when you're having a burger fix while sightseeing Fisherman's Wharf, this place will set you back on your track, after sampling a few of their 15 beers on tap, of course. Get a booth with a personal iPad. Ready for Alcatraz? 555 North Point Street. 415-563-1234. www.fishermanswharf.hyatt.com
The Grove – who gets excited about breakfast? You will after having yours here. The biggest "small" orange juice I've ever seen (are the oranges bigger in California?). If this is your only meal of the day, have it here. 690 Mission St (between Annie St & 3rd St). 415-957-0558. http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-grove-cafe-yerba-buena-san-francisco
Market Cafe – feel like sitting and watching SF go by? Have a seat at one of the cafe tables on the wide sidewalk with your back to the bay. There goes the antique street car from Milan! One Ferry Building.415- 983-8030. www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com
Papalote Mexican Grill – why not eat the famous Mission burrito in the Mission District? Take a break from exploring the trendy neighborhood and have one here. Voted Best Burrito four years in a row by SF Weekly, this restaurant promises a burrito that you won't forget when you get back home. 3409 24th Street. 415- 970-8815.
www.papalote-sf.com
Kingdom Cake – indulge your sweet tooth and devour one of their fabulous cupcakes after the strenuous climb to Coit Tower. Have you ever had a Pina Colada cupcake? To die from! 524 Union St. 415-860-1142.
www.kingdomcake.com
WHERE TO DRINK
Bourbon & Branch – a former Prohibition speakeasy, that specializes in top shelf booz and market fresh cocktails, this place is sexy, secretive and perfect for trysting. Enter only by gaining an access code online and showing up at your allotted time. 501 Jones Street. 415-346-1735.
www.bourbonandbranch.com
Bubble Lounge – SF's premiere champagne bar with over 300 champagnes and sparkling wines. Aren't you celebrating being in San Francisco? 714 Montgomery Street. 415-434-4204. www.bubblelounge.com
Lush – any bar that's got a fireplace and a Tamara de Lempicka print on the wall can't be bad, right? A cozy, earthy ambience allows for easy conversation at their daily happy hour and the $5.00 blueberry martini won't set you back. 1221 Polk Street. 415-771-2022. www.lushloungesf.com
Rye – a chill spot in the Tenderloin to relax with newfound friends and order lofty drinks like The Vertigo or a Basil Gimlet. 688 Geary St. 415-474-4448.
www.ryesf.com
Sugar Lounge – remember what Mary said ... just a spoonful of sugar? Have it in your fresh watermelon mojito here at this Hayes Valley institution with complementary appetizers at happy hour. 377 Hayes Street. 415-255-7144.
www.sugarloungesf.com
Revolution Cafe – hang out with Mission area hipsters at this ultimate dive bar that's got the goods. 3248 22nd Street. 415-642-0474.
WHAT TO SEE
Golden Gate Park – Check out the California Academy of Sciences here among the lush greenery. It's the only place on the planet with an aquarium, a planetarium, a natural history museum and a 4-story rainforest all under one roof. Want more? Nah! 55 Music Concourse Dr., Golden Gate Park. 415-379-8000.
www.calacademy.org
Golden Gate Bridge – the original one and only, and painted lipstick red. Make sure there's enough space on your chip before you start snapping away. Be daring and ride a bike. Golden Gate Bridge. 415-921-5858. http://goldengatebridge.org
Alcatraz Island - nothing compares with time spent at The Rock. Still a mysterious presence in the Bay and one that mirrors the city's mystery, too. Ferries leave every 30 minutes. 888-814-2305. http://www.alcatraztickets.com/
Lands End – don't miss this awesome spectacle of nature. Dress warm, the winds are gale force.
Coit Tower – admire the amazing Diego Rivera-esque murals before boarding the tiny elevator bound for one of the best views ever. 1 Telegraph Hill Boulevard. 415-362-0808.
www.coit.com
WHAT TO DO
Napa Valley Wine Train - who knew that you could experience the breathtaking beauty of NV from a cushy seat in a meticulously restored vintage rail car? Save your energy for that next incredible Cabernet Sauvignon coming down the aisle. 1275 McKinstry Street, Napa, California 94559. 1-800-427-4124. www.winetrain.com
Red and White Fleet – get on the sunset cruise on San Francisco Bay and catch all the famous landmarks with a Tequila Sunrise in hand. Better sit down when the bridge looms in front of you. Pier 43½. 415-673-2900. www.redandwhite.com
Beach Blanket Babylon – a zany musical spoof of pop culture and the world's longest running musical revue. Playing at Club Fugazi in North Beach, the nexus of the Beat Generation and San Fran's Little Italy. Hang in the neighbourhood afterward, a nightlife hub. 678 Beach Blanket Babylon Boulevard (Green Street). 415-421-4222. www.beachblanketbabylon.com
Cable Car Ride – take the old Powell/Hyde Line and hop off at Lombard Street, then sprint quickly down the eight hairpin turns of the crookedest street in the U.S. http://www.sfmta.com
WHERE TO SHOP
Paul's Hat Works – don't miss a visit to this custom hatter in the Richmond District where you can exercise your flights of fancy while trying on some their inventive chapeaus. Remember the Royal Wedding? Spring for a custom look; you can't go wrong with a top hat on Halloween or New Year's. 6128 Geary Boulevard. 414-221-5332. www.hatworksbypaul.com
WHERE TO READ MORE ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO HISTORY
City Lights Bookstore – Why not expand your mind while in San Francisco and learn more about the beat generation? This independent bookstore is the place for the curious traveler to take a break and get studious. 261 Columbus Ave. 415-362-8193. www.citylights.com
