Chez Dominique

A two star Michelin rating is a big deal in any country but in Finland it's even bigger. It's understandable that thoughts run toward France and the UK as far as award-winning cuisine, but who knew that Finland had ante-d up? I found out when I stepped foot into Chez Dominique that memorable night that Finland has raised the bar as far as 5 star dining. If you are a serious foodie it's time you worshipped at the shrine of Chef Hans Valimaki at Chez Dominique. Expectations run high here as a result of the stature and the feeling of ..."we're in your hands, surprise us" easily takes over.

We find our grande dame on an unassuming street near the Esplanadi and realize as we enter that Chez Dominique has the DNA to hang with the rest of the establishments populating the Michelin list. An austere foyer lends an air of a temple and the ultramodern entrance sets up the serene dining room, defined by white paneled walls and a tall Plexiglas service station, installed dead-center to watch the action. At the far corner of the room hangs a startling graphic of irregular black lines on a white ground – a clue to the artistic accomplishment in the plating. Chef Hans' dishes often resemble abstract paintings and curious eyes will wander over each canvas of ingredients marveling at the compositions.

The restaurant is privileged to be on several lists as one of the 50 best in the world and I can't argue with that. We chose the 6 course surprise menu as Chris, our accomplished and amiable Maitre d' advised. The amuse bouche arrived looking futuristic. Three subtle immersions populated a trinity dish joined by toasted flatbread in the shape of a snake and decorated with edible flowers and (real) Philly cream cheese. Turns out it's just asparagus in 3 parts – terrine, soup and ice cream (all with green asparagus). Could Chef Hans have hit on a way to get kids to eat green veggies? Maybe! A bag of assorted slivered vegetable chips delicately lands in front of us - beet, potato, onion and artichoke – in a sealed bag with dips to boot, cool! A Baltic herring nigiri with rice, seaweed and a horseradish "snow" jumps in our mouths and segues nicely to the Finnish new potato with a black truffle crumble and garlic mayonnaise. The tantalizing variety of tastes paired wonderfully with our cocktails.

The meal proceeds like something out of a show on the Food Network:

• Chez Dominique's house salad of spicy cabbage with purple carrot, zucchini, cucumber and a compressed watermelon dusted with cabbage "snow" in a cold, tomato and cucumber broth – so refreshing!
• Langoustine tails with an asparagus mousse topped with Iberian ham – light as air!
• A mousse of duck liver topped with a Sauternes gel, pickled cherry, rhubarb and cherry foam, cherry fluid gel and frozen meringue made from rhubarb ash – umm, that meat!
• Poached sea trout with langoustine foam, beet and parsnip puree and dashi consommé – "could we have just a little more?"
• And finally, a granité of birch flavored tapioca with caramel powder and a drizzle of birch sap – "what did I just eat?"

We felt like judges on Top Chef as the main courses were delivered and Chef Hans took our appreciation of culinary mastery to new heights. A lamb entrecote au jus was just the ticket to award our chef the winner but he was bent on dazzling us after with a pre-dessert of frozen dill mousse with lime juice and then a smooth and succulent buttermilk panacotta with raspberry powder, dried strawberries and a strawberry juice. At no moment did we utter stop, more like, "Give us more."

Never have I been so fascinated with what a man can do with food. We set out into the night in a Zen state. Yeah, we'll gladly worship at Chef Hans' shrine. His prowess made us understand the stakes of the Michelin system. And wow, he aced it.

Chez Dominique
Rikhardinkatu 4
Helsinki, Fi.
+358 (0)9 612 7393
www.chezdominique.fi

DohYO @ YOTEL

Settle in on a cushy banquette at DohYO with a mango-ginger martini at arms length and study the playful murals that invite diners to experience the joyful energy at this one of a kind hotel restaurant. It's 10 p.m. and the place is buzzing with the who's who visiting New York City for the weekend. Their rendezvous this evening is the hotel du jour in Manhattan, Yotel, where they will be continually impressed by the out of the box design with 18,000 square feet of meeting and gathering spaces melding into each other and a surprise visual lurking around every corner. London-based Yotel, located in Times Square, has people talking as the guest accommodations were approached from an ergonomic, first-class cabin yacht design and the compact rooms are ingeniously fitted out with lots of mirrors and glass, clever storage and mechanical beds that fold away.

Past the automatic lobby check-in to the 4th floor, past the sweeping Manhattan views and past the clubby lounge and bar, DohYO is the brainchild of internationally acclaimed restaurateur Chef Richard Sandoval who expertly blended his signature Latin-Asian flavors here with Yotel's vision of social dining and drinking. Growing up in Mexico City, Chef Richard and his family would gather at his grandmother's table for large, lively meals and more often than not he would join her in the kitchen where he learned to respect fresh ingredients and create the vibrant flavors that turned the dinners into events.

With communal dining tables that lower after-hours, DohYO presents a sharing experience that you cannot get in Chinatown and Mr. Sandoval's menu is tailor made for sampling and bringing people together. But first, let's get back to your cocktail which will set the course for experimentation. The beverage menu features handcrafted Latin-Asian cocktails like a Blueberry Shiso caipirinha and a Sake Sangria. "Shakers" cater to larger parties with bottles of tequila or vodka served with a shaker, fruit caddy and signature mixers. Vodka is mixed with blood orange, ruby red grapefruit or fresh squeezed OJ. Tequila mixers are mango, strawberry or hibiscus and all are delivered on a stylish tray. Yes, this is going to be one fun dinner.

A menu of small plates allows for making mistakes so be adventurous. We started with a luscious Hamachi tiradito, the fresh fish with lemongrass soy melting in our mouths. Pork and foie gras gyozas (dumplings) were a burst of flavor and the grilled pork spare ribs were better than Mr. Chow's. We ended our first course with a spicy tuna roll, always a palate pleaser. I'm a big fan of combining hot and cold when it comes to an exotic meal so for our second course we couldn't resist the halibut sliders with a remoulade sauce, the Colorado lamb leg with a balsamic glaze and another tiradito, this time the Wagyu beef with black vinegar soy sauce and truffle oil. With such a powerful range of flavors on the table we couldn't help guzzling that Sake Sangria and when it came time for dessert the group was nearly soused. A yuzu strawberry tart and an interesting banana and pineapple cake called the hummingbird toffee cake followed by copious rounds of intense black coffee set us a little straighter for the balance of the evening.

As we made our exit, I noticed the huge space had been transformed into a den of socializing and table hopping. The laughter grew louder as hot tracks piped throughout. Could we just have one more mango-ginger martini, please?

*We're in luck. DohYO serves brunch, with a wicked Bacon Bloody Mary. For parties of 6 or more, you can order unlimited pitchers of their fabulous cocktails paired with unlimited platters (like chilaquiles and French toast) for just $35 per guest. I'm there!

DohYO
@ Yotel
570 Tenth Avenue at W. 42nd St.
New York City
646-449-7790
*Open until 2 am Thursday through Saturday
www.yotel.com
www.richardsandoval.com

The Bettoja Hotels are luring North American travelers to Rome this winter with incredible offers good for the pocketbook, palate and intellect. One of the largest family owned hotel groups in Italy, Bettoja has four properties in Rome: Hotel Mediterraneo, Hotel Massimo D'Azeglio, Hotel Atlantico and Hotel Nord. All are within walking distance of the Coliseum, Via Veneto and the Spanish Steps. Good food and warm personal service is their mantra over five generations.

The family members are long time Romans and love their less crowded city in the winter. They and their staff have not wavered from their promise to maintain high standards and good value. They've gone the distance and researched the many special exhibits, concerts and museum activities for the off-season and have them available at the front desk or on their site. The Concierge will gladly procure tickets in advance.

Here are 2 price busting packages that are perfect for first timers as well as seasoned "Roma"-philes:

The Art and Culture City Package, valid until March, offers free entrance tickets to various exhibits throughout Rome, ten percent off their best available rate, daily newspaper, official guide book, welcome drinks, 15% discount on meals at the Mediterraneo or Massimo D'Azeglio's restaurants, free Wi-Fi, buffet breakfast daily and taxes. Rates for two for two nights are from: 218 Euros at the Nord, 232 at Hotel Atlantico, 250 at Massimo D'Azeglio, and 272 at Hotel Mediterraneo. There is a minimum two night stay for this package.

Winter Gourmet Package, valid until March, offers two nights at any of the Bettoja properties, one dinner (the chef's suggestion) per person, welcome drink, buffet breakfast daily, tax and service. Prices for two in a room for two nights are from: 242 Euros at the Nord, 258 at Atlantico, 312 at Massimo D'Azeglio, 340 at Hotel Mediterraneo. (Drinks are not included.)

*At all the properties, there are last minute and advance booking special deals off the best room rate AND reductions in price if bookings are more than three nights. www.bettojahotels.it

Reservations: 011-39-06-481-4798 011-39-06-482-4976 (fax) e-mail: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

OR 800-783-6904 212-860-5445 212-860-4544 (fax)

Hotel Mediterraneo

Let's start with the view. In the glass enclosed dining room and on the flowered terrace of La Terrazza, the Roof Garden on the top floor of the Hotel Mediterraneo, you're treated to a sweeping panorama of all of Rome. Not a city where skyscrapers are the norm, my guess is there are few spots to gaze longingly over the rooftops of the romantic destination. The highest building in the center of Rome, this hotel offers one of them and it's a prime spot to spend a few minutes with that special someone. Go at sunset when the city's monuments are illuminated and the town begins to flex its' gorgeously antique muscles. Snag one of the tables edging the open air garden and share a prosecco. You're in Rome after all and this hotel will take care of you like Mama does.

And that is the point about the Mediterraneo. It's a place that coddles its guests and gives them the sense that this is their home away from home. From the huge marble baths with glass shelved vanity tables, double sinks, separate walk-in shower enclosures and porcelain tubs to the generous tea tray with Italian candies and biscuits, the Mediterraneo knows a thing or two about hospitality.

Located within walking distance of the most important archaeological sites such as the Coliseum and the Forum, this flagship property in the small, family-owned Bettoja Hotels chain is a jewel in the group's tiara. One of the most notable, handsome and well preserved examples of the Italian Art Deco style in Rome it has an impressive history. Built between 1938 and 1942-44 by architect Mario Loreti, the lobby as well as all the public spaces, ooze grandeur and sophistication. I was reminded of Greta Garbo and John Barrymore in Grand Hotel as I passed through the elegant revolving lobby door and into the foyer. Practically a sea of glistening marble furnished with oversized mohair club chairs and sofas, many of the walls are decorated with intricately detailed mosaics peeking behind velvet drapes and flanked by busts of the emperors. You half expect Fred and Ginger to fox trot out of one of the elevators whose walnut doors are carved and inlaid with Deco scenes straight off an MGM set. And the Oscar for Best Art Direction goes to ... the Hotel Mediterraneo!

But it doesn't stop there. The elegant breakfast room is inspired by the sea, decorated with tritons and mermaids carved in oak and lanterns reminiscent of ancient galleons. Do have a champagne cocktail in the eye-popping bar where an alabaster counter with Venini crystal and more inlaid panels will have you running for your top hat. But don't dare put it on because you'll want to tip it in the direction of the Bettoja family, whose choices for preserving the striking originality of this property merit an award. On the 10th floor are 10 sunlit and luxuriously furnished suites with Jacuzzi's and private terraces. Naturally, grab one of those.

After just a short stay in the city it had begun to feel a little bit like the hotel was home. Could I live here, I thought, like Eloise did at the Plaza Hotel in New York City? Absolutely!

Hotel Mediterraneo
Via Cavour, 15
Rome, Italy 00184
39 06 488-4051
www.bettojahotels.it 

Québec’s Active Lifestyle

While waiting to board my flight to Québec City I got the sense that I was going somewhere international. A short hour and five minutes later I was staring at a landscape of trees upon landing. I quickly understood what the Québecers had already made clear to me ... the great outdoors is just beyond their back door. Past the jet bridge was a welcome in two languages, French, and then English. I was here in the international capital of the province of Québec ... a place I wanted to visit for a long time.

In retrospect I think I may have had a subconscious reticence about coming. My French was rusty and I'd heard comments about the city being mostly French speaking. Thoughts of Paris in North America ran through my mind but let's set the record straight, OK? It's true that Québec City is the cradle of French civilisation in North America and its' official language is French. If you are studying French or are a novice at French conversation and want to improve, put it at the top of your list. Beyond that, this charming World Heritage site with overwhelmingly friendly and sophisticated people combines the best of two worlds and just about everyone speaks English, too. I was about to discover a little of both and get to practice some of my rusty French along with it.

Founded as the colony of "Nouvelle France" back in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain, Québec is an Indian word meaning "where the river narrows" and this is true of the St. Lawrence River here which, like its' sister city Montreal 155 miles to the west, borders the city and creates a spectacular vantage point to explore. My first glimpse of romantic Vieux Québec, (Old City) just 16 km from the airport, came after a beautiful 10 minute drive along the shore of the St. Lawrence on the Promenade Champlain. Here a wide bicycle track and snaking pedestrian path form the foundation for a spectacular urban park punctuated by contemporary art installations that interact with the landscape design. Completed in 2008 in commemoration of the city's 400th anniversary, it's a green oasis in the middle of the city and I was told it was a project that revitalized the area, turning run down apartments into desirable townhouses. A few days later I, myself, would be pedalling this shore by cycle, marvelling at the seamless sequence of unexpected visual atmospheres along the route and thinking that I'd love to be able to do it every day. It didn't hurt that the September weather was fantastic and the brilliant sun and temps in the eighties practically called for short-sleeves.

Québec City has a distinct European character and is the only fortified city in North America.  Vieux Québec is a magnet for the curious, steeped in history everywhere you turn. Narrow cobblestone streets and massive stone walls encircle the town and a Citadelle out of a Gothic novel stands watch. You'll quickly find yourself roaming these streets of antiquity, peering into quaint shops and longing to peek inside the historic houses and buildings. Hailing from Philadelphia, I'm no stranger to colonial architecture, but the hilly geography here reminded me of a colonial San Francisco. Actually divided into two towns as a result of four major hills, the Upper Town (Haute Ville) and Lower Town (Basse-Ville), are connected by a set of killer stairs known as the Escalier Casse-cou (the back-breaking steps). The adjacent Old Québec Funicular bypasses these and deposits you up in Upper Town in the shadow of Chateau Frontenac, the city's most famous landmark. My guide told me that Québecers choose to stay in shape and avoid the cost but as a tourist you can't beat the views along the steep 45 degree angle climb. Save your strength and energy for the outdoor activities to come.

Vieux Quebec practically begs for a good walk, so stroll the Lower Town's animated Quartier Petit Champlain first, paying close attention to Rue du Petit-Champlain, where the restored houses lining the street are now home to a picturesque promenade of shops and cafes, and the atmosphere is European. Have a quick look around the Vieux Port where the Gare du Palais train station, looking like a French Renaissance castle, is straight out of a fairy tale. The fountain nearby in the Place de la Gare celebrates the power of water and is particularly spectacular at night. Head down rue St.Paul, past posh boutiques and antique shops and turn up rue St. Antoine, a short block that dead ends at the Auberge-St. Antoine. This luxe boutique hotel is a journey into the past. In the lobby is an awesome museum-like display of hundreds of artefacts from the 17th century onward, discovered during an archaeological dig on the site. It's a unique exposition for visitors and provides a canvas to view the city's DNA. Outside, walk left on rue du Sault-au-Mateolot and look for the Mural of Québecers, a fresco depicting 400 years of history painted with 15 historical figures. It's a quirky window into the city's evolution and a great photo "op" that puts the city in perspective. A few steps further lands you smack in the middle of Place Royal, the heart of Basse Ville where the city began. Admire the bust of King Louis XIV, the man who started it all. You've made a "tour" and are ready to ascend to the Haut Ville.

Once upstairs, you'll find yourself in the Place d'Armes with Champlain's statue in front of you and scenic views of the St. Lawrence behind. Here in the Haut Ville you have a true village atmosphere with every street worth exploring. The unparalleled quality and variety of restaurants here puts Québec on a pedestal for exquisite cuisine highlighting regional produce. Take a few days and unwind in the "ville" and let your intuition be your guide as there's so much to discover and much of it within walking distance, too. Just remember that less than 30 minutes from here are hundreds of places to enjoy nature and culture both so you shouldn't spend all your time in the city. The endless list of activities available and the breathtaking natural scenery in all seasons is just a few minutes' drive from downtown.

During my visit, the second annual Grand Prix du Cyclistes was taking place (see accompanying article in Inside Scoop), a major sports event with two bike races (the 2nd following a few days later in Montréal) in which the elite of men's professional road cycling were competing. The city's hilly terrain was made to measure for this race and with the unique landscape as a backdrop and the brilliant sunshine it brought out much of the townsfolk cheering on their favorites. Enthusiastic crowds thronged the route and watching the lithe cyclists complete 16 circuits around the city got me in the mood for a little physical adventure of my own. Since Québec City is one of the few cities that blends urban life with nature's pleasures, I decided on a few day trips away from the city center yet still relatively close, to channel my adventurous side. I knew that Québec's parks were renowned for state of the art sports and recreational facilities and the awesome spectacle of the landscape would inspire me to perform. I'm always craving a closeness with nature so I got psyched to discover Jacques Cartier National Park (1 hour by car), the Vallée Bras-du-Nord (45 min by car) and Duchesnay Tourist Resort (30 min by car).

Driving is a cinch out of the city and if you leave after the morning rush you'll be en plein air in no time. Quebec's vast natural surroundings began to roll before my eyes after just about 25 miles from downtown and the scenery was incredibly beautiful especially as it was still summer. It was hard to believe that in another 20 minutes I was already at the Laurentian Mountains. Québec's 22 tourist regions boast numerous lakes and rivers as well as two mountain ranges and the vast domain of the Parc National de la Jacques Cartier was my first destination. Located 50 km north of Québec City, the park offers 100 kilometers of hiking trails, canoeing and kayaking, river rafting, cross country skiing and snowshoeing. Put it at the top of your list if you're looking for the perfect outdoor adventure.

Covering 26 kilometers of the environs, the Jacques Cartier River is one of the park's best assets and is the best way to view the dazzling scenery. A pretty spiffy, state of the art Discovery and Visitors Center greeted our small group and we set out on a hike to get to know the park. As we climbed over ancient rock formations and through phosphorescent caves I began to feel like a kid at the playground. Tommy, our guide, was as thorough with explanations as a teacher on a field trip and after about an hour exploring the boreal forest he was ready with a quiz about prehistoric conditions. Out of breath all I could answer was ... duh. I did see some unusual mushrooms however, and that got my mind to wandering about stats. Hmmm, a camping adventure next time with a magic mushroom stew?

After a sunny picnic lunch we waded into the river to paddle downstream in our mini-raft. The park offers a thrilling 8 km run featuring 4 Class I and II rapids and our group of 8 was up for it. Thanks to our guide Rene, I quickly learned when to paddle and when to ... collapse. By now the blazing sun had us in a sweat and a couple daredevils in the group opted for a quick dive into the frigid waters during the calm stretches. Are you kidding? No way, Jose! I admit I was tempted but even the strongest among us was shivering after the plunge. We finished the day exhausted and on a high waiting for what the next day would bring.

We set out bright and early in the morning for the Vallée Bras-du-Nord, an ecotourism coop in the region of St. Raymond in Portneuf. The Vallée is a sustainable tourist development with a breathtaking valley, a winding river, numerous mountains and cliffs and a majestic waterfall. It's also a leading destination for mountain biking and has some of the best single tracks a bike could ever wish for but I had already loosened up my cycling limbs in town. After some serious soul searching I decided to go full monte and chose an adventure called canyoning where you climb down a mountain under a shower of waterfalls. We've all heard of the rigors of going up, right ... well, this is the reverse. After donning our gear and packing the additional gear for the descent, we crossed the world's narrowest bridge and hiked what seemed like an Olympic stretch up the mountain. Thirty minutes later we were getting our lesson ... what if I changed my mind? Sorry, Charlie, there's only one way back down! This was a hairy adventure I admit and scary as all hell but Marc, our fearless guide calmed our nerves and made us realize we could do it. Back on solid ground I was soaked, and not from the cascades ... how about buckets of sweat from pure fear? Would I do it again? What do you think?

My last adventure found me playing Tarzan. Let's just say I think I really needed the costume to channel that groove but I gave it my best. Station Duchesnay is a nature resort situated on 82 km of woodlands on the shores of Lake St. Joseph, just 30 minutes from Québec City. Within the shelter of this huge maple forest is Treego Duchesnay (d'Arbre en Arbre), billed as an unforgettable tree-top adventure circuit, a forest full of fun. I was never much for tree climbing but Treego got me harnessed up and psyched for a shot at my Survivor audition. The challenging aerial obstacle course defies description with monkey bridges, nets and footbridges that string you along from tree to tree with progressive levels of difficulty. It's a nature boy's dream. While there are superb views throughout, if you're like me you won't be enjoying them as you hang by a cable and climb for your life high above the ground. This playground is fit for monkeys and you'll either go ape for it or be apeshit at the prospect. One thing is certain; you'll never forget it and you'll never be the same. Treego was a thrill of a lifetime.

As I taxied to the airport next day, I was physically exhausted yet mentally exhilarated. Strangely sad to leave the people and the place, I had bonded with Québec and had even got to practice my rusty French. Now I can't wait until Winter Carnaval.

Hotel Chez Swann
Welcome to the Fun House

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to sleep in an artist's studio, surrounded by boundless creativity? Welcome to Hotel Chez Swann, Montréal's daring hotel concept with a spark of spontaneity. Let's start with the name which calls to mind a graceful and serene creature, a great analogy for the property. Swann is far from the ugly duckling Tudor House from 1929, its' former life tossed aside and a new spirit reborn on rue Drummond in the heart of Montréal's bustling downtown. It's a place that breaks the rules and that makes for a good time.

First, how about the entrance? You can blink and miss the front doors but once through them a mirrored catwalk, skylit by day and bathed in purple neon at night, is perfect for making an exit. How about the lobby? An unusual snakelike bench invites you to sit and get to know the other guests, but be selective as there are just 23 rooms. Now, go to reception. A tiny suspended front desk of rough hewn wood seems to be floating in mid-air, anchored only by the 2 wood pillars at its sides. It's tactile and that's an important sense to cultivate here in the touchy, feely environment orchestrated by Mary Moegenburg. Her accent lighting decorating the space is all one of a kind and her design throughout the hotel is subtly sensuous. Your eyes will thrill to the play of light, color, texture and materials. The bohemian and edgy vision I learned was to provide an environment that would allow guests to connect socially. It's a bit like being in a lab experiment, one where you're happy to be the litmus test. Don't miss the abstract film playing on the far wall behind you before heading upstairs. It may be symbolic.

The elevator glides to a white hallway, the walls up lit by brilliant white beams and a giant sculptural tree trunk guarding the way to your room. The language of Swann is one that constantly transcends boundaries and soon you'll be expanding yours. You find your room and enter a pure white environment with polished jet black floors, furniture and a lone ebony armoire. The anchor is a quirky sitting area with a big black baroque chair lit by a tripod floor lamp dressed with a gauzy skirt shade. Crank up some sounds from the armoire, add the TV. for visual and sink your feet into the 60's era green shag rug. You're starting to channel your inner bohemian and feeling good about it. The whole scene is enough to make you giddy and when you part the gauzy, floating white drapes you notice the lobby below is abuzz. Chez Swann has made a name for its art installations dramatically featured in unexpected ways and tonight is one of their infamous vernisages. Is that a knock on the door? Ahhh, your martini is here ... party mode!

It's time for a night on the town so start with a shower, Swann style. You won't want to hurry after a glance at the sexy, green bath. The spacious room is furnished with a huge, black lacquer vanity and hung with a large oval mirror. Playful black curlicues stencilled on the single white wall add a whimsical flourish, again, the Swann aesthetic. An enormous black tiled spa shower big enough for 4 people and equipped with 2 full body showers beckons you. Pick up your curvy slice of strawberry soap and prepare for a full on water confrontation. Once inside you just may not want to come out. But don't worry, you won't get bored. You can peek through a glass wall to your room and watch some TV. while you steam away.

Once out of that shower you'll be ready to let down your hair and socialize, so grab your D&G duds and head downstairs. The vibe at Hotel Chez Swann challenges the expected and with Crescent Street practically around the corner, who knows where the night will take you.

Hotel Chez Swann
1444 rue Drummond
Montréal, Québec
514-842-7070
www.hotelchezswann.com 

Leméac – Cafe/Bistro

If you're in Montréal and really want to channel a French groove, head to Leméac. When this bilingual city has gotten its hooks into you and you're practically becoming a Francophile, there is no better place to discover. The elegant vibe is close to Brasserie Lipp or La Coupole in Paris with all the trendy Québecois hanging out – but heuresement, no smoking, of course. Like all great bistros, Leméac's menu offers the must-haves like steak frites, pave de foie de veau (slab of veal liver), boudin maison (house-made sausage), braised short ribs and cabillaud (Icelandic cod) but with a new twist on these French classics. Freshness and simplicity in tandem with quality ingredients makes for a superb dining experience.

A long bar with groovy mid-century stools grounds the space, perfect for some oysters and champagne. Tables are organized cafeteria style, small butting against big, and are covered with white waxed paper to complete the brasserie feel. Dark wood panelled partitions give the restaurant a retro feel and a bold patterned floor pops against the visual calm. A long, single track fixture suspended from the ceiling lights the space east to west and north to south, its focus upward. The effect is dim so love it if it's a bad hair day for you. Immense windows in the dining room overlooking rue Laurier allow for optimum views of one of Montréal's best thoroughfares in trendy Outremont or have a Kir Royale and some escargots in the beautiful heated patio on the garden side.

The ambitious menu reaches far beyond standard bistro fare. Start with one of Chef Louis Morin's seasonal favourites like the butternut squash gratinee or the house made potted rillettes. The chef does a great job of reinterpreting the dishes you crave when the bistro mood strikes and nothing says that like a classic rillette, similar to a pate but (usually) made with pork and much more satisfying since the cooked meat is cooled in its' fat, giving it a richer flavor. Served with a fresh baguette, it's the perfect foil for a naturally sweet soup and irresistible. Try the delicately prepared vegetable tian on the side, a little cake of warm slivered vegetables (sliced zucchini, tomato and onion) covered with a veil of melted cheese. Bistro fare isn't usually lauded for its' health factor but here it's some comfort to know that someone is thinking organically. With that in mind, entrees like a sea salt salmon pot au feu, a perfectly seasoned and cooked filet topping a healthful mound of tiny new potatoes, baby carrots and Brussels sprouts in their broth as well as a glistening roasted cod, with fennel and a potato puree are practically eligible for spa menu status.

After exercising such restraint and not giving in to the braised beef short rib and barley stew, you can spring for the chocolate profiteroles and the coffee flavored crème caramel for dessert, both of which have surely been on your mind since you put down your menu. You won't want to leave Leméac without a taste of both of these!

The restaurant is great for night owls and encourages them. On a Sunday evening after 10, the place was bustling. A fixed price menu of $25 (an appetizer and an entree) starts at 10 pm which may be the catalyst. With an enormous selection of wines by the glass, why not plan on a tasting with a little food on the side?

Leméac
1045 rue Laurier Ouest (corner of Durocher)
Outremont
Montreal, Quebec
514-270-0999
www.restaurantlemeac.com

Le Clocher Penche
A Penchant for “Les Aperos”

It's nice to walk into a restaurant and instantly feel a warm, fuzzy vibe ... one where you want to stay. Le Clocher Penche sets a tone for comfort with a buzz of conversation from the dining room, slow mode ceiling fans, an art installation at the back that invites curiosity and a pale blue gin called Magellan. Add some tonic to that fuel (with an alcohol content of 44%) and you've got a powerful aperitif ("apero" in Quebecois speak), one that any knowledgeable Brit (or Spaniard these days) swears by. Gin and tonic anyone? After a full day of sightseeing and activities here in Quebec City you'll be thirsty ... and hungry, too.

That's where Le Clocher comes in. A gastro pub menu that's infinitely creative will easily take care of those hunger pains and servers that know the food will guide the way. Keep the easy going pace that suits this casual French Canadian bistro and you have a winning experience in my book. But let's not forget the groovy French soundtrack that reminds you that you're in a city with the DNA of France but the sensibility of modern Canada – perfect for the tourist who wants to explore his international side yet not be challenged by a quantum leap to a language differential. Almost everyone speaks English here in this romantic Unesco World Heritage city and the food is on the level of Paris.

It's difficult to make a choice from the fabulous menu as the restaurant has wisely imbued its selections with Quebecois overtones that show up in regional specialities and artisanal cheeses. Hearty food is no stranger to these townspeople with a full seven months of chill so bear that in mind when you order. The talented chef/owners Eric Villain and Steve McCandless have put a very sophisticated spin on good old-fashioned comfort food and the result is a daring take on the contemporary bistro formula.

Appetizers classified as "The First Bite" will keep you warm. We started with a mini lettuce salad with a garlic infused creamy vinaigrette and a piglet croquette stuffed with fresh port and served with a potato salad, celery and tarragon. Mains asking "Shall We Continue" were a fabulous Arctic char served with a beet infused risotto and the piglet (again) cooked sous vide (i.e. in a vacuum) with fennel, multicoloured cauliflower and a blueberry sauce. Talk about reworking the color wheel!

Desserts were a strawberry mascarpone cheesecake with a strawberry nougat glace and apple compote and fresh strawberries layered in an olive oil wedding cake dressed with a vanilla panna cotta and lemon cream. The pastry chef knows a thing or two about subtlety with sugar. Both sent us begging for after dinner libations from the region and we settled on a smooth after dinner wine called Temiscouata from the town of Auclair in the Domaine Acer, a couple hundred miles east of Quebec City. Its' subtle maple flavour reminded us that we were in the place where maple syrup and all things maple are king.

Le Clocher Penche has been open a solid eleven years clearly proving that it's doing something that both visitors and locals alike will write home about.

Le Clocher Penche
203 Rue St. Joseph Est
Quebec, QC, G1K 6A8
418-640-0597
www.clocherpenche.ca 

Cafe de la Paix

There's nothing like the classics especially when it comes to French cuisine and even more so when you're spending time in romantic Quebec City, which easily earns my vote for the best city for lovers in North America. Take a step into Cafe de la Paix with your significant other and you will instantly feel like you have dropped in on your favourite haunt in Paris. Servers greet you like old friends and fawn over you like family. The dining room is a delicate combination of old and new Quebec with exposed stone walls, tiny crystal chandeliers and lots of carved wood. It's an easy atmosphere in which to relax and enjoy the delicious food. So, settle in with one of Maxime, the owner's, amazing wines from his extensive cellar, then let his sons Matthieu and Olivier feed you like royalty.

Appetizers stretch the limit of the chef's imagination but still stay close to the letter of the standards. A pate of five gibiers (game) takes a flying leap into the stratosphere by nature of its' constituents – duck, wild boar, buffalo, deer and elk. This is the real deal if you are lover of pate. Scallops arrive in a light as air puff pastry with a creamy sauce of leeks subtly scented with bay leaf. Entrees are a phenomenal ris de veau (veal sweetbreads) in a port sauce with mushrooms and medallions of veal in a veloute of its' own juices, something only a chef with French training can accomplish.

An unlikely tirami su confirms the Italian imprint of the restaurant which has been opened a record breaking 52 years in the Vieux Ville (old city) of Quebec City and was formerly owned by a second generation Italian. A maple cream tart drives home the fact that nobody beats Canada when it comes to all things maple. Have an espresso and savor the flavours of Quebec while holding close to your partner. Feel like taking a walk before turning in?

Cafe de la Paix offers a fantastic four course prix fixe menu with coffee or tea for under 50CAD as well as a full a la carte selection. The elegant private dining rooms accommodating groups of 10 to 40 people are especially good for business or special occasion.

Cafe de la Paix
44 Rue des Jardins
Quebec City, Quebec G1R 4L7
418-692-1430
www.cafedelapaix.ca 

L'Orignal is Original

*Photos by Riccardo Cellere

Almost hiding on a tiny street in Montréal's historic and romantic old city is L'Orignal, practically a shrine for carnivores. It's hard to miss the groove of the place as you descend a set of stairs into what feels like a large playroom in a chalet. Wood surfaces abound, tree branches appear as room dividers and the entire space is quintessentially Canadian chic – lots of stone, striped wood panelling and a stately moose head guarding the dining room. Take that as a clue. The surroundings are dimly lit by groovy eighties inspired glass snowballs and the Debbie Harry and REM tracks playing in the background set a party mood for the raucous oyster bar.

*Photos by Riccardo Cellere

L'orignal means moose in French so it's no surprise that the menu is heavy on game. Settle in, get comfy in the cozy space and think about connecting with your inner hunter. Prepare for satisfying dishes that warm the body and soul and don't forget that in Québec in winter or even spring, it's all about oysters. Dig into a dozen of fresh ones from the Old Port Fishing Company while you peruse the menu choices. If it's a chilly one outside as it was when I visited, rest assured that after a few of Chef Marco Santos' dishes, your battery will be charged and the cold will become second nature. After a cold Moosehead Pale Ale to wash down the last of the sweet nothings as I like to call them, dig into a plate of mini lamb burgers with aged cheddar and caramelized onions. Should you decide to keep going with small plates and beers, your bet should be placed on the parfait of foie gras with piglet heart served with a sweet corn custard and topped with blackberry vinaigrette. It's a clever take on a meat sundae and not to be missed. A venison tataki with Asian pears and soya sprouts served with a sweet potato puree and a roasted sesame dressing also shines and will guarantee you're still seeing straight when the beers turn to shooters.

*Photos by Riccardo Cellere

L'Orignal has put its stamp on Montréal nightlife and let's be clear that this is a perfect spot to hang with friends over multiple appetizers and cocktails. When your mind turns to bigger things though, consider the duck breast with spicy eggplant and figs and the milkfed piglet served with salsify, seared romaine, apple, bacon and a buttermilk vinaigrette. These should satisfy your curiosity about going the distance with game meats and experiencing L'Orignal's true DNA. Stick with a local brew after the meal and try to snag a place at the bar, the nexus of activity here in the cozy, cavelike setting. It's still early and should you strike up an appetite later on there's bacon wrapped dates to keep you going. Hats off to L'Orignal, a true original in every sense!

*Photos by Riccardo Cellere

 L'Orignal
479 Rue Saint-Alexis
Montreal, Quebec H2Y 2N7
514-303-0479
www.restaurantlorignal.com